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Trigger pull?


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I've been trying to shoot my 9mm Hi-Power a little more lately. With the magazine-disconnect removed, I still measure 6-7lbs (inconsistant) with my trigger-pull gauge.

It doesn't "feel" quite that high, but it's still a lot of effort.

I'm wondering if that might be part of my problem getting good groups.

What's the "right" trigger-pull for a competition / target 1911 or Hi-Power?

Especially thinking about IPSC.

Mike

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2-3 lbs seems to be pretty good for most folks. Now that I have a lot more trigger time - how the trigger is fitted is as or more important to me than the weight. I like to be able to feel the sear slide across the hammer hook. That's what helps me on the "hard" shots.

My 2...

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Mike,

One of the better shooters at my club shoots a .45 with a 4lb trigger. Light trigger pull weight is a "crutch" for shooting accurately. There are guys that shoot great with a 5# pull while others can't shoot as well with a 24oz trigger. If you learn trigger control and master your trigger (regardless of the pull weight) you can shoot up to the gun's potential.

If you are not going to practice with your gun, reducing the trigger pull will make it slightly easier to shoot groups but the difference is not dramatic.

Leo

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MIke,

I bought a STI with a Briley top end a couple of years ago and it had a trigger pull of about 1.5 lb. I thougt that was really neat....until it started doubling. It took about a year but it got worse to the point that I was scared it was going to double at the chrono at a state match. Don't know how I would have explained that!!!! I replaced the sear spring and was disappointed that I had a 4-5 # pull. I tweaked the spring a small amount and got it down to 3# and have been perfectly happy with it. Matter of fact, if it was less than 2# again I would be concerned about the doubling starting again. Once I started shooting with it, I decided that I liked it. And that is the idea, getting something that YOU like because if you worry about your trigger pull then it will distract you from more important things like that bump on the end of the barrel. :D

FWIW

dj

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EricW pretty much nailed it, big name smiths routinely shoot for 2-3 lbs on their limited and open guns as a standard. All three of the trigger jobs I have had on Benny Hill guns came in at 2.5 lbs or less. I believe Bob's new SC series will ship around 2.5 lbs.

A properly done 2.5 lbs trigger is safe, reliable, and oh so sweeet. If you aren't comfortable going that light, don't go down that far.

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I'll have to measure my Springfield 1911's again. I don't remember what they register, but it's a LOT less than the Hi-Power.

I was starting to think (hope?) some of my problems are from the Hi-Power trigger, so I brought 5 pistols to the range this afternoon. Glock 34, Hi-Power, Springfield 1911 in .40 S&W, Springfield 1911 in .38 Super and a Browning BuckMark .22.

My best groups came from the Springfield "Loaded" stainless in .40 S&W, although I never actually got around to firing the Hi-Power today for comparison.

07-25-04-1.jpg

07-25-04-2.jpg

07-25-04-3.jpg

Mike

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I've been trying to shoot my 9mm Hi-Power a little more lately.  With the magazine-disconnect removed, I still measure 6-7lbs (inconsistant) with my trigger-pull gauge.

It doesn't "feel" quite that high, but it's still a lot of effort.

I'm wondering if that might be part of my problem getting good groups.

What's the "right" trigger-pull for a competition / target 1911 or Hi-Power?

Especially thinking about IPSC.

Mike

Having wasted too many hours tuning the trigger on my HP, I feel safe in saying this (assuming mag safety removed):

4.2 - 4.5# is the lightest RELIABLE trigger that you can get on a HP with the stock sear lever (and a reduced force hammer spring).

You can get the pull weight down to about 3.2 - 3.5 with the C+S sear lever, but that makes the "pull length" longer because it lengthens the lever distance of the sear lever on the sear.

I will add this: HP's are the most notorious guns for posts that start: "I bought this used HP and now the hammer goes forward after I shoot..." People are always screwing them up. And, the steel on the stock sears is soft and will wear into the "hammer follow" mode after a few hundred rounds.

The smart money is to buy the C+S sear and hammer which are much harder than stock, pay a really good gunsmith to do the trigger job, and then you will have about a 4.5# trigger with decent break.... and a gun with about $1200 in it that shoots about like a $500 1911.

The HP is possibly the finest defense/CCW pistol ever made: simple, few parts, reliable, very narrow profile and the grip is about 3/4" shorter than most full size guns, holds 14 rounds of 9mm, easily handles +p ammo. It is concealable, reliable, and accurate enough to kill with. But.... a competition pistol it ain't, and you will notice them absent from that venue because of it. The terrible trigger is the main reason.

I should add there are definitely some people who can master the HP trigger. Mr. Camp who moderates a number of forums is a real HP enthusiast and he shoots groups at 15 yards I could only duplicate if I taped the target to the muzzle of my gun. But, if you prefer the light, crisp breal like a 1911. the HP trigger is very different. For most of us, a stiff breaking trigger is harder to operate without moving the sights (is for me). Just bought a new SIG and that is EXACTLY what I am seeing as well.

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  • 9 months later...
I've been trying to shoot my 9mm Hi-Power a little more lately.  With the magazine-disconnect removed, I still measure 6-7lbs (inconsistant) with my trigger-pull gauge.

It doesn't "feel" quite that high, but it's still a lot of effort.

I'm wondering if that might be part of my problem getting good groups.

What's the "right" trigger-pull for a competition / target 1911 or Hi-Power?

Especially thinking about IPSC.

Mike

If you removed the mag disconnect be careful God forbid you need to defend yourself with that gun they will nail you to the cross for that. Take it from someone who knows. Didn't happen to me but I work in LE bad news to do things like that.

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...they will nail you to the cross for that.
Can you point to any examples of people getting shafted for disabling a mag disconnect, or even a 1911 grip safety or something along those lines? I'd love to see an actual case where this happened.

- Gabe

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4.88lbs. AHHH.....feels good!

At the Columbus Cup, the RO almost shot the chrono with mine. He truly expected a light trigger pull, and jerked the hell out of the gun. He felt an urge to measure my trigger after that!

:lol:

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  • 6 months later...

i have a springfield 1911 that i like a lot. i worked on the trigger and got it to 3.5 lb which works very nicely. one time i got creaticve bought a titanium spring and got the pull to 1lb. i went to the range loaded the gun and tried it.. yep fast! all 10 rounds in maybe .7 sec.. full auto...the guy next to me was impresed at how fast i had gotten.. i told him i had been practicing ....I packed up, went home, and put in the other spring. yep 3.5 lb is pretty good. tom

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It really depends on what you like...

I think as long as the let off is consistent..you can shoot good groups be the pull at 1.5# or 6# .. you just need to keep the sights aligned as you press the trigger...

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  • 1 month later...

Try pulling the trigger without the hammer cocked while looking at the sights. Then shift your grip and change your grip pressure until you find a combination that lets you pull on the trigger without moving the sights very much. If you find a good grip combination that you can repeat on the draw, you won't worry much about the weight of the trigger. If you have a bad grip that is causing your sights to shift during the pull, the trigger weight will be more important.

I shoot an SV in limited with a trigger just under 2lbs. I shoot a beretta in production with a trigger over 6lbs. During a stage, I couldn't care less. I did have to spend a lot more time on my grip with the Beretta though.

Hope it helps.

Trevor

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