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What would you get?


arguy57

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So I've been wanting a new pistol. I've narrowed it down to the P226, P229, and USP 9mm's. I like the Sig's because of the non polymer frames, the trigger, and the outstanding quality but the H&K has a few good things going for it too. (mainly weight and quality). I won't be shooting them in competition as of right now. Possibly later. But for right now, just for fun and for a nice reliable home defense pistol. So if you could choose one of these what would it be? And which one of the p226's or p229's? Right now I am really leaning towards the P226 stainless.

Edited by arguy57
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I would go with the stainless P226 but only because I am very familiar with the P226 platform and am very comfortable with it. I have an X-5 and two P226 alloy frames. The X-5 is excellent but large and heavy. The alloy P226 is perfect as a service gun but I like a little more weight for a range gun, so the stainless P226 version is a good compromise--a little lighter and shorter than the X-5, but heavier than the alloy frame standard P226.

The H&Ks are excellent, I've heard, but I don't have any experience with them. I have a CZ75B that I like almost as much as my P226s.

Joe

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My vote goes for an alloy frame P226. Had a stainless P226 and thought it felt a little sluggish on transitions due to the weight. the extra weight does make the gun shoot softer though but I prefer a lighter gun. HK's are solid reliable guns but the triggers arent the greatest.

For a home defense gun night sights arent absolutely necessary but not a bad idea. All the P226 needs to compete are good quality sights like the Dawson FO front/Warren rear, and a little tweaking of the trigger. Swapping the stock mainspring out for a lighter Wolff 17 lb will give it an instant trigger job. If the gun is doing double duty then I probably would leave the stock recoil spring in so it functions properly with hot defense ammo.

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I had a .40 USP and sold it. It was too bulky for my hands, and the trigger was not very smooth.

If you think you will use the gun for range and possibly competition, I'd get a 226. If you think you might want to carry it, I'd get the 229.

I have a carbon slide, Al-frame 9mm 226 that I use for USPSA Production. It's had a trigger job, so I wouldn't trust it for home defense or carry use. I also have a stainless slide, Al-frame 229 that I use for a carry gun. It has night sights and a light rail, so it serves double duty as a nightstand gun. I wouldn't recommend a stainless frame for carry purposes due to the weight, but it's not impossible if you have a good carry setup. Like blaster113 has said, I've heard positive comments for both stainless and aluminum frames for competition. Some like the extra weight of stainless for recoil control, others like the lighter weight of aluminum for easier transitions. I think that would be a personal choice.

I haven't held one of the beavertail frames like the Elites, but if you're a 1911 guy, you might like the feel of those. On the other hand, if you're a revolver guy, I'd recommend taking a look at the DAK actions. They may not be the best for competition, but they have a smooth, consistent, and light trigger pull. I had one as a carry gun and sold it because I consistently shot low with it compared to my DA/SA competition gun, and I wanted consistency between the two. The trigger was very nice on it, and I'm sure if I had given it enough attention, I could have corrected the low hits.

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My vote goes for an alloy frame P226. Had a stainless P226 and thought it felt a little sluggish on transitions due to the weight. the extra weight does make the gun shoot softer though but I prefer a lighter gun. HK's are solid reliable guns but the triggers arent the greatest.

For a home defense gun night sights arent absolutely necessary but not a bad idea. All the P226 needs to compete are good quality sights like the Dawson FO front/Warren rear, and a little tweaking of the trigger. Swapping the stock mainspring out for a lighter Wolff 17 lb will give it an instant trigger job. If the gun is doing double duty then I probably would leave the stock recoil spring in so it functions properly with hot defense ammo.

Is it worth spending the little bit extra for the SRT trigger?

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I have a USP 40 and have no complaints with it I haven't shot any of the sig pistols but you cant really go wrong with either of them, both are quality companies. Shoot both and go with the one that feels the best to you.

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Is it worth spending the little bit extra for the SRT trigger?

Yes! I have the SRT parts in all 4 SIG frames I have, including an X-5 and a P239. But you can buy the parts separately if you don't find a gun with them already installed. Optimum 4.4" SIG for me would be an All Stainless Elite 9mm with the fat trigger and SRT. Then I would change all the springs, clean up the sear and hammer, and add a FO front and LPA adjustable rear sights. That would be a perfect SIG for me. But my X-5 All Round is pretty close!

Joe

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  • 2 weeks later...

HK are nice guns but their triggers are much to be desired. I had a coworker once compare the trigger pull to that of an old daisy BB gun. If you can find someone that has them and test drive them.

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  • 1 month later...

I own several Sigs (P226 X-5 Competition .40s&w, P226 Diamond Plate 9mm, P226 Bi-tone .40s&w, P220 Elite Match SS .45acp, and a few Sig 1911's), so I'm definitely biased to Sig products. I don't own an H&K but I am aware they are also high quality guns.

I'd recommend about any 4.4" barrel P226 model in .40s&w. This also gives you the option of changing caliber as well, as you could buy a .357 sig drop-in barrel and use the same .40s&w mags, and you could also buy a 9mm drop-in conversion barrel for the P226 .40s&w, but would also need to buy a reduced recoil spring and 9mm mags.

But it gives you more options. You CAN'T convert 9mm to .40s&w, but you CAN convert .40s&w to 9mm.

Just a thought.

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Optimum 4.4" SIG for me would be an All Stainless Elite 9mm with the fat trigger and SRT. Then I would change all the springs, clean up the sear and hammer, and add a FO front and LPA adjustable rear sights. That would be a perfect SIG for me. But my X-5 All Round is pretty close!

Joe

Since posting this reply above, I purchased a 9mm Stainless Steel Elite, changed the thin trigger out to the thick one, changed the springs, worked over the sear and hammer, changed the sights, and put on the mag well grips. It is perfect now!

Also, a clarification on JGus' post about conversion. The 9mm slide won't accept a 40 cal barrel as the hood dimensions are different. You can put a 9mm conversion barrel in a 40 cal slide. If you buy a 9mm gun and want to go to 40 cal, you have to buy the X-Change kit which includes the slide, barrel, recoil spring, and magazine.

If I wanted to have both calibers available, I would buy the gun in 40, then buy a Bar-Sto conversion barrel and a recoil spring to use when I wanted to shoot 9mm. You can also use a SIG 357 SIG barrel in the 40 slide with no other changes. With one 40 cal slide, you can shoot 9mm, 40, and 357 Sig ammo if you buy 2 more barrels, a SIG 357 SIG barrel, and a Bar-Sto 9mm conversion barrel. Or to make life more interesting, buy a P226 Classic 22 and a 40 cal X-Change kit, and the two barrels. Then you have 4 calibers.

Joe

Edited by Joe L
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Hmm, Honestly I don't think Sig is the best entry level gun. They are expensive and involve a lot of peripheral cost in maintenance. (I've never shot a p229, but I love the x5 9mm, p226 Tac Ops .40, Equinox, and stainless steel elite. The alloy frame in the tac ops is great for carry and transitions, But I'm not sure how I feel about the durability.)

Whatever you choose, you can probably use training and good gunsmithing to make it perfect. The best guide when you're looking at higher end pistols is to identify the good gunsmiths and custom shops in your area and curb your choices to what those shops can smith. Where I live, there is a very famous CZ custom shop that turns out a lot of high quality production and limited guns. My advice to people I know out here is to buy CZ and have it tuned up there. (there are no great sig shops...).

If I were You, I'd look around on google maps for some good shops, and or ask some people at a local USPSA/IDPA club where they go and what they shoot. (most of them will probably be using polymer framed Glocks, Springfields, and M&Ps and for good reason. they are reliable, easy to shoot, and common enough to have GREAT user support).

As for my choice from the list you mentioned above:

get a p226 Equinox or Stainless Steel Elite. (or if you can afford it, an X5...they are worth it)

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Duxbellorum makes a good point. I love my SIGs but I bought a CZ in March and it is an excellent gun for a lot less money and it has very good aftermarket support. I shot tighter groups this morning at 25 yards with my CZ-75B than I did with my X-5 at 3 times the price. I need some more practice with the X-5, but you get my point--the CZ is crazy accurate and reliable and well supported and priced well. The 22 conversion for the CZ is about the best you can get, also, all steel with steel magazines. You might consider a 75B with some aftermarket CGW or CZ Custom Shop parts.

If you have your heart set on a SIG, and have the money, then an all stainless P226 in 40 would be hard to beat for a home defense gun. I use my SSE for range and games with a light trigger and springs, and have an alloy SIG with stock springs, trigger, and night sights for a home defense gun.

We have some excellent choices. Check the fit and feel of several SIGs and maybe the CZ and then choose.

Joe

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I would have to say the P226 since I own four of them. :) A Navy P226, standard P226, Made in West Germany marked P226 and a

Made in Germany marked P226.

Of the SIGs I shoot I prefer the P225.

You may want to post your question here - http://www.sigforum.com/

I should clarify one point with my previous post. If the choice is for a match gun I prefer to shoot my M&Ps in matches but if it is to choose a pistol my life may depend on it will be one of my SIGs.

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  • 1 month later...

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