Skulptor Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 Thanx for all the info guys! Good stuff to know. I have also been told by other friends that Dillon is the "ticket". I called the guy back with the Square "B" but........ as the old saying goes "Ya snooze, ya loose". Ah well... It seems that from the time I called him, to the time I got enough info from you guys (which wasn't long AT ALL!), he sold it. I guess that does verify it was a good deal. But, now I know so I can "pull the trigger sooner" (pun intended) if another deal comes around. Being a newbee has it's disadvantages. But I am learning. We all have to start somewhere. I am starting to collect brass (which is EASY to do at the range I practice at). I was curious, how many times can a shell typically be reloaded? My guess is as long as it's good shape but, I was just curious if there was a "typical life" of a casing. Just curious. OH, and what about the (??) stainless/silver/plated/whatever (??) casings? Are they ok?? Thanx again for all the help!! Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihatepickles Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 A casing will last as long as it will last... It actually depends on what you're reloading. I know guys who've reloaded the same .45 case safely for 25+ reloadings. Whereas a .40 case might get brittle and crack around the mouth after 5 reloadings. Different cartridges experience higher and lower pressure so it's hard to give a hard and fast rule. Always inspect your brass. Look for flattened out primers, primers that have flowed back around the firing pin, a bright shiny band around the case web that indicates stretching of the brass there, cracks in the case mouth, obvious holes in the case, extractor marks on the case, and the spent primer falling out of the case. These are all pressure signs. Discard brass that looks suspicious. It's not easy to know what's dangerous when you're new at reloading so don't risk life or limb over a nickel's worth of brass. The shiny silver colored cases are nickel plated by the way, and fine to reload. Don't confuse nickel plated cases with aluminum cases which are also silver, but much duller. Aluminum cases are not reloadable. If you're sorting out brass now, make sure to sort out any brass with crimped primer pockets. The crimping is usually 3 indentation marks around the primer to hold it into the pocket, although sometimes the crimp may be a lip that runs all the way around the primer pocket. You can't easily reload these cases, due to this crimp. Set them aside but don't run them through your press. The Federal NT stuff and WCC are common headstamps with crimped primers. Speaking of things you can't reload, keep an eye out for Berdan primer cases. The cases that are easily reloaded are boxer primed and they have a single flash hole in the middle of the primer pocket. Berdan cases have 2 holes offset from the center and will cause havoc if you run them through your press. Do some searching of the forums and Internet to see examples. If you stick with Winchester (WIN), Remington (RP), and Speer (SPEER, CCI) initially, your life will be easier. Federal (FC) is good brass too, but you need to watch out for the Non-Toxic (FC-NT) headstamped Federal brass with crimped primer pockets. It's a lot to mentally and physically process starting out. Stay safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skulptor Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 You ain't wrong there my friend! Man! Oh well, I'll just keep trying to ask and learn. I am going to shoot my first clasifier (good Lord willin and the creek don't rise) this Sunday and I will be looking around for more casings while I'm there. It's much like gravel there. (I'll be nervous and needing something to do anyway ) There might be a Reloader (person) there that can show me a few things if they are not wanting to concentrate on the course the whole time. Come to think of it, maybe I'll try to get some info afterwards. I'd hate to mess someone up. Thanx again for the info!!!!!!! Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 A square deal B is an excellent press to start with, and, if you should decide to upgrade later on, will be easy to sell for a large percentage of original purchase price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoldasLions Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 (edited) People have their own opinions on reloading setups. I've listened to those random opinions in the forum. The problem is that most people want the cheapest way to reload and so did I. Well I thought I would just be extra careful and gamble w/ the cheaper machines. Because the cheapest machines don't have fail safes, I ended up loading a double charge. I lost that gamble, along with a really nice STI. Reloading and shooting is an expensive sport, that's just something we have to come to grips with. If we never prepare for a failure, that failure will bite us in the ass. A Dillon 650 is a safe and reliable setup that you can count on. Edited November 5, 2011 by BoldasLions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skulptor Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 Good points. I have decided it has to be a Dillon but I don't think it needs to be a 650. I'd be happy with a Square Deal B but a 550 would be better. I want to find one used. Thanx, Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlmiller1 Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Chaz, Awesome Pup you have in your avatar! I still miss my heeler after nearly two years. Great, fully devoted, thinking dogs. If you luck onto a used dillon, plan to pay at least 75% or more of new price. Usually the only way to get a good deal on a used press is if it comes with a bunch of accessories, like scales or extra dies or...... well, you get the idea. Most of the deals I've seen, the cost was up between 85-90% of a new one but they included lots of extra stuff. Dillons sell FAST too! You might check the ads here on BE as well as other gun forums, glocktalk.com, AR15.com, snipershide.com, & on & on. If you hit the timing right, you may find a deal. If you give up searching for used ones, contact Brian Enos, the guy that owns & runs this forum. I guarantee you won't find a better final price for a new press than what you can get from Brian plus he will take the time to answer every question you have & more. MLM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shooter57 Posted November 13, 2011 Share Posted November 13, 2011 The only reason to sell a used Dillion is because the orginal owner died or they want to move up to another Dillion and cannot afford to keep both. The reason you see the other brands for sale so often is their moving up to a Dillion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KentG Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 (edited) Good points. I have decided it has to be a Dillon but I don't think it needs to be a 650. I'd be happy with a Square Deal B but a 550 would be better. I want to find one used. Thanx, Chaz IF you are planning on loading for many years to come spring for the 650. I bought a 550 many years ago and within 2 years regreted not stepping up for the 650. Ended up selling the 550 and all the hassle of packing it and shipping it. Plus buying a 650 to replace the 550 cost me more in the long run. Now I do 45 9 and 223 on my 650 and wouldnt trade it for anything. Your going to have a hard time finding used Dillons at bargan prices. I tried for a while and gave up and just bought dirct from Dillon. Whatever you buy get the case feeder. Edited November 15, 2011 by tnek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngeyes Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Check out this link. All your questions as to which Dillon to buy are answered by Brian. I've found his advice to be scary accurate. http://brianenos.com/pages/dillon.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skulptor Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 (edited) Thanx again for all the info guys. As was said, a good Dillon "used" is hard to find cheap. I guess I should have asked Santa. Oh well, shooting season is a couple months off yet so hopefully I'll get lucky. I'm watching auctions as well. Someone also posted a site that searched ammo prices and I can't seem to find it. Do any of you know the site I am thinking of? Oh and thanx MLM. He (Roo) is the BEST of companions!!! He truly understands things. Everyone should have as good of a buddy as him. Thanx again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Chaz p.s. Merry Christmas!!! Edited December 20, 2011 by Skulptor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chibern Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Someone also posted a site that searched ammo prices and I can't seem to find it. Do any of you know the site I am thinking of? is this the one? http://ammoseek.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skulptor Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 Exactly! Got it!! Thanx a bunch!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40S&W Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Cost me 11.9 cent per round of 115 gr. FMJ 9mm. I use once fired range brass that I pick. Cost me 14.3 cent per round of 155 gr. HBRN 40 S&W. I use once fired police range brass that I pick. CCI Primers $29/1000 Titegroup Powder $107/7 lbs. Berry Plated 9mm 115gr. $75.00/1000 Range Brass $0.0 (just your time to pick it) CCI Primers $29/1000 Titegroup Powder $107/7 lbs. Berry Plated 40 S&W 155gr. HBRN $99.00/1000 Range Brass $0.0 (police range brass) I shoot twice the amount form what I used to pay before reloading, and that is a good thing. My rounds are now exactly what my guns & I like with respect to accuracy, reliability, recoil & flat shooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vwynn Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 the general rule is usally 1/2 price of walmart. long as you have brass on hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ranger Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 I had great luck with Dillon Square Deals. I had three - one in 9mm, one on 40, and one in 45. They served me well for decades. I finally got a 550 to load 223. I see Square Deals on sale all the time - including Ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrell Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 I have a 650 and a 550, been having them for years, I buy bullets, primers, and powders in large quantities to save money. My cost for 100 9mm JHP's is $11, and are accurate to boot. I bought my son a new 550 for christmas along with a tumbler, and media separator so he can start reloading at his house instead of having to come here when he needs to reload. I will continue to use Dillon products because of the no BS warranty and their great customer service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckell101 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 If I don't have to buy brass, I can get my 147 Gr. S&S match bullet loaded up with WSF for $.09. The press and accessories pay for themselves in one Summer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angus6 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I cast my own bullets so depending if I use scrounged lead or factory alloy my 9mm run from $24 to $45 a thousand, be around $85 K buying lead bullets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beladran Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 i cast my own bullets for 38spl and use 4.2gr trailboss (5pounder) with fed GM primers. Total cost is about 4-5cents a pop. 1000 rounds of factory Cheap junk is $300... so my $40 1k vs their $300 1k.. thats big savings specialy at 10k rounds per year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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