Skulptor Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Hey Guys, Please forgive me but this really is a "newbee question: What is the cost (not counting the price of the reloader) approximately per round for a 9mm? This is probably not a question worth much of your time but I was curious. I am just getting into this shooting (and LOVE it) so I thought I'd look at the aspect of reloading as well. I'm told it may not be worth it (in a 9mm) when I can buy Winchester white box for $21 a hundred, or Federal for $20 a hundred at Wally World. That is still the cheapest I can find - bar none. I'm going up to a gun show in Indy this weekend and thought I may as well go armed with what you all think as I know little. I will also be looking to try to find case prices for less $ than Wally World. But while I'm at it, I thought I'd look around for reloading prices and equiptment as well. Oh, and what about a reloader?? Any suggestions?? "Good used" would even be fine if there is such a thing. Thanx for your time!!!!!!!!!!!!! Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn-rgr Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I think my cost is $.10 a round with range pick up brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I can load 9mm for half wally world price. You have to buy in BULK though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GForceLizard Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 (edited) Yup, you have to purchase in bulk. My cost is about $12.25/100 loaded with pickup brass. Edited October 21, 2011 by GForceLizard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeyedme Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 7.9 cents for Bayou Bullet 147g + 1.3 cents N330 3.8gr + 3 cents Winchester primer = 12.2 cents per load (assumes using range brass and buying materials in bulk) $12.20 per hundred The big plus is a much better round developed for my gun. As far as equipment goes, I am a Dillon guy so that's what I recommend. Buy used if you can - you should have seen the rust-bucket basket-case 650 I bought before I sent it to Dillon for a rebuild. I basically got a new machine back!! Love the customer service and no BS warranty of Dillon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 7.9 cents for Bayou Bullet 147g + 1.3 cents N330 3.8gr + 3 cents Winchester primer = 12.2 cents per load (assumes using range brass and buying materials in bulk) $12.20 per hundred The big plus is a much better round developed for my gun. As far as equipment goes, I am a Dillon guy so that's what I recommend. Buy used if you can - you should have seen the rust-bucket basket-case 650 I bought before I sent it to Dillon for a rebuild. I basically got a new machine back!! Love the customer service and no BS warranty of Dillon. +1. That answers the entire question. If you reload - depends on how many rounds you shoot/year - reload any other calibers? It will cost you $500 to buy equipment (maybe more) - so you have to shoot enough to warrant the cost. Buying bulk is also expensive - the get all the equipment and all the bulk supplies will cost you at least 100 boxes of ammo = still have the equipment left over at the end, though. Also, depends on how much time/space you have - need a reloading area (obviously) and some time to crank out ammo - I can do about 200 rounds/hour - everybody else here reloads 350 - 1,000 rounds an hour - I'm really slow:( Good luck with your decision. By the way, there's a lot of discussion on this topic if you look back at the old postings for the past year or so. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skulptor Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 Wow, thanx guys!!! I appreciate it!! I did look back a few pages but apparently not far back enough. It seems like a bit of a trivial question but at least I got the specific answers I was looking for. I'll look up Dillion but I did not know if one was "definitely" better than the rest. Thanx so much!!! Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 There is the cost per round then there is the fact that you can tailor your loads to the gun, sport you are shooting, and your shooting style. I really wouldn't want to shoot factory ammo in IDPA as my handloads perform better (for me). My .308 silhouette handgun was built tight neck that will not chamber a factory round. Truth be told, reloading to me is a hobby within a hobby. Albeit mindless work 90% of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihatepickles Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 My 9mm loads are $12/100 with purchased once fired brass. Every piece of brass I get back saves me a bit more next time around shellplate. Cost savings is a factor, but better accuracy and reduced recoil are more important to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyburg Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Where do you live by Ye way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loop51 Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Hey Guys, Please forgive me but this really is a "newbee question: What is the cost (not counting the price of the reloader) approximately per round for a 9mm? This is probably not a question worth much of your time but I was curious. I am just getting into this shooting (and LOVE it) so I thought I'd look at the aspect of reloading as well. I'm told it may not be worth it (in a 9mm) when I can buy Winchester white box for $21 a hundred, or Federal for $20 a hundred at Wally World. That is still the cheapest I can find - bar none. I'm going up to a gun show in Indy this weekend and thought I may as well go armed with what you all think as I know little. I will also be looking to try to find case prices for less $ than Wally World. But while I'm at it, I thought I'd look around for reloading prices and equiptment as well. Oh, and what about a reloader?? Any suggestions?? "Good used" would even be fine if there is such a thing. Thanx for your time!!!!!!!!!!!!! Chaz If you are going to compare the cost of ammo to factory new, compare apples to apples and you will technically be saving even MORE... For instance, winchester white box of 9mm is $21 per 100. Ok, thats a 115gn RN bullet and winchester powder. I shoot a Montana Gold 124gn JHP bullet with N320 powder (pretty pricey stuff) and do it for about $12.50 per 100. If I were to make an equivalent round to WWB, I would be at probably $10.50 a box or so...You could NEVER buy a round equal to the quality of the ones I make for anywhere close to my cost. I think 125gn HP (Federal, Hornady, Speer etc.) is like $20 per 50...maybe even more than that. My cost per round: $.125 Equivalent factory: $.36 3:1 ratio...Doesnt take long to pay for that new Dillon 650!! And I guarantee my loads are more accurate in MY gun because they are made for it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polizei1 Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 (edited) Not to take away from the other members, but hopefully I can offer a bit more insight: First off, reloading probably isn't going to save you any money, because most likely you'll just shoot more rounds. That's a good thing though! Next, you have to realize that reloading isn't only done to save money, but the MAJOR draw IMO, is that you can fine-tune and tailor your load to your specific gun, and run the combination that YOU want and what works best. That said, the cost savings is a relative matter, and depends entirely on the components used, and how you buy them. For example, if you only shoot lead bullets, your overall cost will be significantly less than if you buy, say Montana Gold 147gr JHP's. All of the components are this way. You can use Wolf/Tula primers, or go with CCI/Federal, which are substantially more expensive. And you guessed it, powder is the same. A LOT of people are running VV N320 powder, which is quite a bit more expensive than Hodgdon HP38. Also, different powder charges will result in how long the powder will last. Probably the biggest way to save money reloading is to buy everything in bulk. There are MANY different places to buy your components from, and most of them offer discounts when you buy in bulk. One thing is hazmat, which is expensive. Often times, places will run free-hazmat or if you do have to pay hazmat, get everything in one order so you're only paying once. Same thing with shipping. It really all depends on the components you use, how much you buy at one time, and what deals on components are currently being ran at the time of purchase. The best way to add up what you're going to use is to use a calculator: http://ultimatereloader.com/tools/reloading-costs-calculator Right now this is what I bought initially to start with: 1,000 Precision Delta 124gr bullets - $79 4lb WIn 231 powder - $70 10,000 CCI SPP - $330 Brass - Free 4.5gr powder/charge 1,000 - $123.25 50 - $6.16 So as you can see, even though I didn't buy in bulk (still trying to figure out what components I want to use), my savings are almost cut in half. Edited October 21, 2011 by polizei1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Merricks Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 As far as reloading equipment you do not have to look any further, you can get all you need from Brian. I've got a link in my signature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pizzim Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I load 9mm at .107 with jacketed bullets and range brass. When i started i bought a SDB and it paid for its self the first year (me and my brother load and split the cost on everything) after a year we decided due to the amount we were shooting it was time to step up to the 650 and it too will be paid for in a year or less. one of the keys to reloading is to ask around at you range and see who else reloads and make "group" purchases, Most companies ship up to 50lbs on one hazmat charge... thats about 14 sleeves of small pistol primers. This will not only help lessen the per person cost of shipping but can sometimes also qualify you for an additional discount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David.Hylton Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 When you start go slow! If you are new to reloading be careful and take your time. Speed will come with practice. You must have confidence in the ammo you produce. Making lots of bad ammo will be a mess. There is nothing like a squib round to ruin a stage. If you can find used equipment buy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeeZer Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Squib can ruin way more than a stage. I had one once - I was lucky the bullet stuck early in the barrel and prevented next round from chambering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddrod Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 For me it is as follows in 9mm 6.34 per 50 in FMJ 2.34 per 50 in lead Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skulptor Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 Outstanding! Great info! I went to the gun show yesterday armed with the info you guys gave me. I saw a few used machines but no Dillons. I picked up some cards from reloader component dealers so I have some places to check prices. So, now I have 2 more questions........ at least! What's the difference between the dillon 550 and 650?? How do you "adjust" your rounds for what shoots best in your gun?? Do you just start making various rounds with varying weight bullets and powder? Like maybe 50 each and then just shoot them?? Or is there a rule of thumb? My buddy who went with me bought an SR9 and wants to try his hand at this great sport as well. I thought he made a good starter purchase. It may be awhile to see if he is going to like it (since it's the end of the season) but we may be able to split a reloader.(??) BTW, other than Craig's and ebay is there anyplace to look for a loader? Just curious. Thanx again for all your time! Chaz p.s. Cyburg, I live in Batesville IN. Mcracco, why wouldn't I want to shoot factory ammo for IDPA? I'm new so I really don't know. Thanx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skulptor Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 (edited) I just found this on Craig's. Dillion Square B basic reloader, 45acp - $250.00 Works fine and will instruct me on reloading and load some while I'm there. Worth it?? What else beside 9mm stuff would I need? Thanx, Chaz Edited October 22, 2011 by Skulptor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 The Square deal takes proprietary dies and conversion kit. So you'll need the 9mm Square deal B kit, plus a powder scale, dial calipers, chronograph, reloading books, powder, primers, bullets, brass, a tumbler and cleaning media. and I'm probably missing something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihatepickles Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 (edited) With a 550, you manually rotate the shellplate after each handle pull. The 550 is a 4 station setup. With a 650, it automatically rotates the shellplate after each handle pull. The 650 is a 5 station setup. On a 550, if you get confused somewhere along the line it's a bit easier to understand how to get back into the correct loading rhythm. The biggest thing to watch out for though, is a double powder charge or a zero powder charge. If you have a brainfart while reloading you could create a bomb (double charge) or a squib (zero charge) very easily. The key with all reloading is to look into the case and verify the powder is correct visually. On the 650, the 5th station is used for a powder check setup. There's a rod that goes into the case that will alarm if the powder is too low (zero charge) or too high (double charge). You still need to visually look into the case before you put a bullet on top of the round in order to be safe. Like a safety on a firearm, the powder check is a mechanical device that can fail. On all setups, you can vary the bullet seating depth with an adjustment of the seating die. The Dillon seater is very basic, and works well. There's nicer seaters available such as the Redding Competition seating die that have a micrometer on top to quickly adjust between 2 (or 3, etc...) different styles of bullet. I think you'll find that once you find a good setup for your reloading, you won't be changing your die setup very often. My .45 dies haven't been resetup in 5 years. If you've got the time, the SDB is a good machine as well. It uses proprietary dies though and don't have as much leeway for adjustment or experimentation. Some people have a SDB for 3 or more calibers and come in under the cost of 1 fully equipped 650. The SDB won't produce ammo as quickly, but it's still a high quality and safe machine. As a new reloader, speed shouldn't be your biggest concern, but in 6 months you may wish you had the nicer setup. Have you read the forum sponsor's info on Dillon equipment? It's the single best comparison of the Dillon line I've seen and it's written for the new reloader that can't decide which way to go on their first purchase. Good luck and wear safety glasses. I've had 3 primers detonate while reloading, I always wear eye protection and keep a healthy respect for the machine I'm operating that's full of explosives and gun powder. Edited October 22, 2011 by ihatepickles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeeZer Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Skip Dillon, get Hornady LNL AP and then show Dillon guys what they are missing or paying too much for... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 My actual cost to produce 9 mm ammo is $14.00 per hundred. Expect to spend close to $1,000 to get started in relaoding. Many ways to think about it. Consider it only costs 50 cents to ride the bus, so why are you driving a car? Hornady and Dillon are both very good machines. The cheapest way to start is either the Square Deal B or the Hornady LNL. Keep in mind once you fully load a LNL with case feeder you have spent exactly the same amount as an XL650 with case feeder. It just comes down to choice, I have both, neither is for sale. Buy bullets by the case (2000 to 4000) powder in 8# jugs and primers 10K or more at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfrey Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Since you are just getting started, I would really suggest you take a close look at the Dillon Square Deal B press. It is great and highly under rated. I got my first one for .45 ACP and liked so much I got a second one for 9mm. They can crank out a lot of ammo in a fairly shot amount of time and are easy to learn on. Dillon supplies great directions with their presses and their customer service is the best, hands down. I don't load an enormous amount of ammo but the two I have keep my pistols well fed all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 I average less than .10 per round of 38s, one you re-use the brass so many times, and 38s is expeNsive to buy new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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