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FTF on SLP


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I have started having one or two FTF problems per match. The rounds seem to be catching on the right side of the chamber and not going in. Attached is a crappy pic from my phone from tonights practice. Any thoughts?

Mine ran flawless for the few ~500 rounds. Then I put a welded lifter in it and I have the same issue. Its mostly with the Federal Game Shock Lead 1oz loads. The ribbed hull seems to catch more on the mouth than other hulls. I took my dremel and tried to grind a relief in the lifter to help keep the shell centered and that helped. Now it only happens once every 20 or so rounds instead of 1 in 5.. :)

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I had the exact same problem with mine and it began right after the lifter was welded. The cure was to throat and polish the chamber mouth. I used sandpaper and did it myself by hand. What was happening every 10-15 rounds now occurs once out of a couple hundred IF the chamber hasn't been wiped down. When it does happen I lightly tap or tug and release on the bolt handle and the round chambers. Easy peasy. I didn't do anything with the springs for the lifter. I did however get the Browning Gold action spring and I run the HEAVY piston for anything from 1oz. loads to 3" shells with no problems.

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I polished the chamber as well as the others items listed on DocMcG's list this weekend. Ran a 100 rounds thru it yesterday without a hiccup. Made me remember why I like this shotgun so well. Thanks for the help!

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Only mod to it is the lifter has been welded up.

Thats the problem. Mine did it too. The forks act as the feed ramp and when you weld it you lose that. I had to dremel a channel into mine to act as a feed ramp. A little trial and error and now its fixed. I've heard of others with the same issue

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  • 3 weeks later...

wow, thanks, that is a gold mine of info!

Here is a list of things to do that are not hard to do to your SLP that will help make it run 100%, this list is from DocMcG on this forum.

I did all this and I run the heavy piston all the time, even with Wal-Mart loads and have no failures, it's great!!!

I run the heavy piston all the time because it is easier on the gun, especially when you drop in a couple of full power slugs for those long slug targets and because the gun will run anything I've put in it with it.

Hello All, here is the list the DocMcG put together for SLP tuning. This list certainly helped.

"The long and the short of it is that once you modify one part of the shotgun it typically throws another a bit off balance so you have to make minor modifications to several other parts to bring it back in check. The good news is, it is not hard to do.

Here is a list of things I have done to mine and additional notes for each. Let me know if you would like me to send you any photos.

1. Weld up the "thumb destroying" lifter. (This is what Shumaker did such a good job of for me! He not only welded it up, he also milled the "Benelli" slot in it and built up the starboard side to improve reliability.)(NOTE: this tends to cause reliability issues with shells failing to feed by hanging up on the extractor slot at 3 o'clock on the chamber.)

2. Polished the Chamber and Extractor Slot from 2 o'clock to 4 o'clock. (This was done to prevent the failure to feed issue caused by the modification to the lifter. I did this with my finger, some emory cloth and steel wool.)

3. I opened up the loading port with HANDTOOLS! (I refuse to use the Dremel tool because of my own habit of going too fast.)

4. I cut back the hand guard so it would not interfere with reloads or the loading port I just opened.

5. Added the Nordic Comp charging handle

6. Added the Nordic Comp Benelli bolt release oversized button

7. Soft sided shot shell carriers for the port side (9 shell) and the 2 shell slide lock carrier for the starboard side. (both are hook and look removable.)

8. Cut the tubular magazine spring. (This makes reloads softer. There should be a minimum of 12" of spring hanging out of the front (Fore not aft) end of the magazine tube after you cut it. Many say to buy an extra spring and keep it with you just incase after making this mod.)

9. Polish the inside of the tubular magazine. (Wrap a 12ga brass brush in steel wool, place it on a cleaning rod and chuck it up in a high speed drill. Run it up and down the tube at high rpm to polish the heck out of it!)

10. Polish the magazine spring and shell follower. (This is done with steel wool as well. I plan on buying a Nordic Comp follower, but have not gotten it done yet.)

11. Polish the Recoil Spring and Recoil Spring Tube: (Remove the stock and disassemble the recoil tube and spring. Clean all oil residue off. Chuck the spring up in a 1/2" drill and run it at high rpm while running steel wool up and down the length of the spring. Polish the inside of the recoil tube using the same procedure mentioned above for polishing the tubular magazine, but use a .45 acp brush/20ga brush. After polishing them both and wiping clean, slather the spring and inside of tube in an engine reassembly lube of your choice. This makes the recoil operation sing!)

12. I have also added extended choke tubes and run the I/C and Light Mod for most everything.

13. Run the light gas piston for all shot and try to run reduced recoil slugs. (FN says this keeps everything under 1000/1100fps and you can leave the light piston in all of the time.)

14. Cleaning/Maintenance: (A) Buy a full bottle of Hoppes No. 9 and pour it in a small glass. Drop your gas piston in it and let is soak while you clean the rest of the shotgun. Drop it in first and then brush the piston up after cleaning everything else. The carbon brushes right off with a plastic bristle cleaning brush/toothbrush. (B Keep all oil off of the outside of the recoil tube! Clean it with dry steel wool only. The built up carbon creates an amazing lube! Wrap steel wool around the tube and with long even strokes clean the tube until the carbon is gone. The brass ring is a bit of a challenge, but can be done. Clean the barrel ring with steel wool the same way. C) Spray Rem Oil or another light oil on the magazine tube spring before inserting. The follower can be sprayed as well. D) I lube the moving part of the gun and all of my competition guns with a 5w Castrol Synthetic oil. It stays with the gun and does not go away, but this is a mess if you use too much!)

That is everything that I have learned from so many others and my SLP DOES NOT STOP!

This list is courtesy of Kyle McGregor. Thank You Kyle!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got mine to run 100%... I was having the failure to feed problem too... shell getting directed to the right side of the chamber and getting stuck on the extractor notch.

Here's what I found.

I was looking closely at the lifter alignment... by turning the gun over with the loading gate facing up, I looked at the space on each side of the lifter. Mine was actually hitting the bolt release bar when I bounced it up and down with my finger.

My lifter was bent to the side. It was pointing the shell more towards the ejection port, so the shell was going where it was being pointed, and getting stuck there.

So I took the trigger group out, pulled the pin out of the lifter, then took a pair of flat nose pliers and bent the two parts of the lifter with the pin holes in it a small amount to one side, which in turn positioned the lifter dead center of the loading tube and chamber. You can determine which way you need to bend the tabs for the proper alignment.

I had polished and rounded and opened everything up, all the tweaks that everyone has suggested, and it still didn't work right. Now, I'm convinced that I've actually solved my problem... and yes, my lifter has been welded up.

Take a look at your lifter alignment if you're having the same problem.. I'm curious to know if this is a common occurrence.

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Has anyone asked FN what they think about the lifter's that cut everyone's fingers....???

I would think they would have a problem with their product injuring their customers when performing a simple, necessary, and very regular function....

Edited by BoomStick
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Put the Glock springs in my FN this week and got to test fire it last night. 20 slugs and 50 rounds of assorted birdshot without a problem. Not totally sure its 100% fixed but off to a good start. I will probably shoot a couple rounds of sporting clays with it this weekend to further test it. Had to clip off a couple of coils off one of the springs to get the length right but only took a few minutes to get it right.

PS I was having the FTF off to the ejection port side with my welded lifter. Have chamfered and polished to no avail, would still FTF every once in awhile. With slugs it was about one out of every 3 or 4 shots. Hope this is THE fix!

Jim M.

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Ok, I got the Glock extractor springs in and installed them. It's jamming more frequently now, but it has moved where it's jamming. It's not on the right side of the barrel anymore, the front of the shell is going into the chamber. It almost looks like a 1911 when the rim is hanging on the extractor instead of sliding under it. It did this with different brands of ammo, both low and high brass, but Winchester AA's worked perfectly. I'm going to try tweaking the front of the lifter down to move the contact point further back on the shell next. Any other ideas?

th_SLP002small.jpg

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Ok, I tweaked the lifter down slightly. You can barely see the bend, but I didn't want to go any farther. With the guide on the right side of the lifter, any more would have made the lifter start twisting. I test fired it and shot 25 rounds without a jam. I still need to run some more rounds through it, but originally it would jam within 15 rounds, and after putting in the Glock springs it wouldn't run 8 rounds. So, it's a least an improvement.

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After beveling the chamber, installing Glock springs, and putting a Benelli bend in the lifter, it appears the FN is back to 100%. I've put around 100 rounds of birdshot, some high brass shells, and a handful of managed recoil slugs through it with no malfunctions.

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After beveling the chamber, installing Glock springs, and putting a Benelli bend in the lifter, it appears the FN is back to 100%. I've put around 100 rounds of birdshot, some high brass shells, and a handful of managed recoil slugs through it with no malfunctions.

Curious.... What is a Benelli bend?

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Curious.... What is a Benelli bend?

See the following thread, I found several on the subject while troubleshooting. It moves the point of contact between the lifter and the shell as it feeds into the chamber.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131323

Makes sense, yet another shell alignment modification... I'll give it a try. Right now, it seems that the Wally World Federal Bulk pack is about the only stuff that mine won't feed 100%.. I'm hoping that bending the forward end of the lifter down a bit will take care of that problem. It's going to be a couple of weeks before I can get to the range to check out the mod. I'll post the results... Thanks

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just got back from the range test firing the SLP.. after putting the Glock springs in (trimmed about 3/16" off of one of them) and bent the front of the lifter down...

So I figured I'd try the worst feeding ammo first (the Federal bulk pack from WalMart) Went thru 50 rounds and there were no malfunctions what so ever. I even fired it with the ejection port turned over to the right, facing straight down.. it ran flawlessly (to my surprise)Ran another box of Remington Gun Club through it and again no problems at all. I'm completely happy with the way it's running now... at last!

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  • 7 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Glad to find this info thread... My friend did an awesome job welding up the lifter on both of our slps but now some shells are getting stuck on the lifter on mine... Will try these tips and report back! Need to get er up and running smokth before our next local 3 gun... Thank u all!

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I had same problem with mine. There is a thread here in the archives somewhere with lots of pictures. Bottom line I used a dremel and ground down the inside radius of the chamber. It has fed very well ever since.

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