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FTF on SLP


Suff

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I have started having one or two FTF problems per match. The rounds seem to be catching on the right side of the chamber and not going in. Attached is a crappy pic from my phone from tonights practice. Any thoughts?

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I have started having one or two FTF problems per match. The rounds seem to be catching on the right side of the chamber and not going in. Attached is a crappy pic from my phone from tonights practice. Any thoughts?

How many rounds on it?

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Bummer, not enough for what I was thinking. Is it caught right on the sharp shoukder of the chamber? If so, you might try radiusing that. Some of the lifters move side to side more than others and if it is not aligned, the shell can catch on that edge.

Are you using at least 1200 fps 1 ounce loads and the 1 1/2 ounce and under piston?

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I had the same problem with mine with Winchester white box(1145fps 2 3/4 dram). Went to Winchester Super X (3 1/4 dram 1255 fps) and it runs flawless. It has less than 500 rounds thru it also. Try some different rounds

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My SLP started having the same problem. It ran without a problem for about 750 rounds and just recently started having the same FTF problem. I have always shot cheap 2 3/4 dram ammo and only lately have the FTFs occurred. My gunsmith smoothed out the shoulder of the chamber but the problem continued. I have since switched to 3 or 3 1/4 dram ammo with a brass base and have not had a single issue. Still not sure what the cause is since it ran flawlessly for so long with the cheap ammo.

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Well, that might be the problem. On some guns, the extra weight out front is too much for the lifter spring. I've also seen some welded lifters that were made too long and the lifter drags on the next shell.

For the follow-up question, welding the lifter saves the thumb from getting cut up when loading.

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Change the lifter spring out for a pair of Glock extractor springs, end to end along the guide. When you mess with the weight of the lifter sometimes you need more spring pressure for the gun to run. You may also need to cut a slot down the center of the lifter Benelli style.

Those two fixes fixed that very feed issue on my SLP.

Also check that you don't need to tweak the end of the lifter downwards a bit, sometimes if the lifter is too long it will put shells up into the top of the chamber.

Edited by technetium-99m
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Suff,

Here is a list of things to do that are not hard to do to your SLP that will help make it run 100%, this list is from DocMcG on this forum.

I did all this and I run the heavy piston all time even with Walmart loads and have no failures, Its Great!!!

I run the heavy piston all the time because it is easier on the gun especially when you drop in a couple of full power slugs for those long slug targets and because the gun will run anything I've put in it with it.

Hello All, here is the list the DocMcG put together for SLP tuning. This list certainly helped.

"The long and the short of it is that once you modify one part of the shotgun it typically throws another a bit off balance so you have to make minor modifications to several other parts to bring it back in check. The good news is, it is not hard to do.

Here is a list of things I have done to mine and additional notes for each. Let me know if you would like me to send you any photos.

1. Weld up the "thumb destroying" lifter. (This is what Shumaker did such a good job of for me! He not only welded it up, he also milled the "Benelli" slot in it and built up the starboard side to improve reliability.)(NOTE: this tends to cause reliability issues with shells failing to feed by hanging up on the extractor slot at 3 o'clock on the chamber.)

2. Polished the Chamber and Extractor Slot from 2 o'clock to 4 o'clock. (This was done to prevent the failure to feed issue caused by the modification to the lifter. I did this with my finger, some emory cloth and steel wool.)

3. I opened up the loading port with HANDTOOLS! (I refuse to use the Dremel tool because of my own habit of going too fast.)

4. I cut back the hand guard so it would not interfere with reloads or the loading port I just opened.

5. Added the Nordic Comp charging handle

6. Added the Nordic Comp Benelli bolt release oversized button

7. Soft sided shot shell carriers for the port side (9 shell) and the 2 shell slide lock carrier for the starboard side. (both are hook and look removable.)

8. Cut the tubular magazine spring. (This makes reloads softer. There should be a minimum of 12" of spring hanging out of the front (Fore not aft) end of the magazine tube after you cut it. Many say to buy an extra spring and keep it with you just incase after making this mod.)

9. Polish the inside of the tubular magazine. (Wrap a 12ga brass brush in steel wool, place it on a cleaning rod and chuck it up in a high speed drill. Run it up and down the tube at high rpm to polish the heck out of it!)

10. Polish the magazine spring and shell follower. (This is done with steel wool as well. I plan on buying a Nordic Comp follower, but have not gotten it done yet.)

11. Polish the Recoil Spring and Recoil Spring Tube: (Remove the stock and disassemble the recoil tube and spring. Clean all oil residue off. Chuck the spring up in a 1/2" drill and run it at high rpm while running steel wool up and down the length of the spring. Polish the inside of the recoil tube using the same procedure mentioned above for polishing the tubular magazine, but use a .45 acp brush/20ga brush. After polishing them both and wiping clean, slather the spring and inside of tube in an engine reassembly lube of your choice. This makes the recoil operation sing!)

12. I have also added extended choke tubes and run the I/C and Light Mod for most everything.

13. Run the light gas piston for all shot and try to run reduced recoil slugs. (FN says this keeps everything under 1000/1100fps and you can leave the light piston in all of the time.)

14. Cleaning/Maintenance: (A) Buy a full bottle of Hoppes No. 9 and pour it in a small glass. Drop your gas piston in it and let is soak while you clean the rest of the shotgun. Drop it in first and then brush the piston up after cleaning everything else. The carbon brushes right off with a plastic bristle cleaning brush/toothbrush. (B Keep all oil off of the outside of the recoil tube! Clean it with dry steel wool only. The built up carbon creates an amazing lube! Wrap steel wool around the tube and with long even strokes clean the tube until the carbon is gone. The brass ring is a bit of a challenge, but can be done. Clean the barrel ring with steel wool the same way. C) Spray Rem Oil or another light oil on the magazine tube spring before inserting. The follower can be sprayed as well. D) I lube the moving part of the gun and all of my competition guns with a 5w Castrol Synthetic oil. It stays with the gun and does not go away, but this is a mess if you use too much!)

That is everything that I have learned from so many others and my SLP DOES NOT STOP!

This list is courtesy of Kyle McGregor. Thank You Kyle!!!

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Nice list of mods and maintenance! Thanks for putting that up here.

I wanted to add a second to the recommendation of re-springing you lifter; either with two Glock springs or just with the stock replacement springs from Winchester/Browning. It is the "Carrier Dog Spring" part number U111773601 in the Winchester parts catalogue. That, along with several of the other mods listed here, has pretty much cleared up that particular FTF in my SLPs.

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I had the same problem. There are 2 ways to fix this. Wal-mart federal has a really crappy sharp crimp that contributes to the problem. If you buy the Wal-mart remington sport loads (green shells), they have a much better crimp and will generally feed fine. The second fix is to buy a dremel flapper wheel and polish the chamber throat. I did this and mine runs pretty much any ammo now.

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