Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Switching from Moly to Jacketed Bullets


Vincent258

Recommended Posts

Ultimately, I am hoping for clarification on the topic of switching from moly coated bullets to jacketed (FMJ) bullets.

It was brought to my attention that after shooting moly bullets, if I ever wanted to convert back to jacketed bullets, I would first have to extensively clean all of the moly coating out of my barrel. However, I have not been able to find any information explaining exactly why?

I am new to reloading and started reloading because I am getting increasingly more active in USPSA style shooting. I will have to assume that most all of us know the benefits reloading (cost, efficiency, performance, etc.). As I am learning about all the different ways I can help to improve the cost and efficiency, I found out about moly coated bullets; which seem to be a great “middle of the road” solution between plain lead bullets (cheap, but dity) and FMJ’s (more expensive, but clean).

Would anyone be able to explain to me the characteristics of why a moly coated barrel and FMJ bullets “just don’t mix”?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've bounced back forth (a lot) with zero issues. Have not cleaned a barrel in many moons. I am one of those that just keeps the chamber clean (even between stages). Now days, I see no reason to use jacketed bullets in non-compensated game guns. Zip. Just my opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thought process is that moly/lead is more likely to leave deposits/build-up in the barrel to the point of effectively constricting the bore diameter. Since a moly/lead bullet is softer and will obturate more easily, you may be able to shoot with this slightly constricted bore without noticing ill effects in terms of accuracy or pressure. But put in jacketed bullet which does not deform as easily and you can get a very sharp pressure spike.

I shoot moly predominantly and have never seen any noteworthy build-up in any of my barrels... Glock, M&P or CZ.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've bounced back forth (a lot) with zero issues. Have not cleaned a barrel in many moons. I am one of those that just keeps the chamber clean (even between stages). Now days, I see no reason to use jacketed bullets in non-compensated game guns. Zip. Just my opinion.

I ordered a case of BBIs 8 weeks ago. No sign of them yet.

I ordered a case of Montana Gold bullets and had them in my hands in 12 days.

I am a huge fan of moly bullets and will continue to use them in some loads but you just can't beat MG for delivery times.

Anyway, to the OP's question, who cleans barrels? :roflol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would like to follow up on this topic with an update.

Since listing this topic, I went ahead and decided I would find out first hand.

I loaded about 80 rounds of .45ACP 230g FMJ from Montana Gold with 4.8g of Winchester 231 (this is a load that I like to use "just for putting holes in paper"). With only a minor cleaning of the barrel (because I'm the type that prefers to maintain my firearms to a high quality), I went to my local range and did some test firing. Bare in mind that I hadn't removed any Moly from my barrel.

It is easiest just to say that the test rounds went as smooth as butter. Absolutely no issues from the Moly coated barrel. I'm glad to know that I'll be able to swap back and forth with little effort.

Originally, the reason for asking this question in the first place was because I was having issues with my Moly loads not chambering into battery all the was and I needed to know how much effort was going to be involved with switching back to FMJ's.

However, since then, I have also fixed the issues I was having with my Moly bullets. It turned out that while loading the Moly lead bullets, the seating/crimp (one stage) was forcing the diameter of the bullet to enlarge because as the bullet was being seated, the crimp on the case mouth was digging into the bullet.

I've learned that by separating the seating and crimping stages, it allows the bullet to be fully seated before any crimping is done and the diameter of the lead bullets does not enlarge. Now, my moly loads drop in and out of the chamber with ease during a "drop test".

Thanks to everyone for their input.

Happy shooting and keep'em in the A zone!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've bounced back forth (a lot) with zero issues. Have not cleaned a barrel in many moons. I am one of those that just keeps the chamber clean (even between stages). Now days, I see no reason to use jacketed bullets in non-compensated game guns. Zip. Just my opinion.

I ordered a case of BBIs 8 weeks ago. No sign of them yet.

I ordered a case of Montana Gold bullets and had them in my hands in 12 days.

I am a huge fan of moly bullets and will continue to use them in some loads but you just can't beat MG for delivery times.

Anyway, to the OP's question, who cleans barrels? :roflol:

Monster, I too ordered from BBI and after 5 weeks, I canceled my order and ordered from David at Precision Bullets. Same price and got here in 4 days (TXs to WA). I'm very happy with my Precision bullets so far.

Bear Creek Bullets was also recommended to me but, from what I have found, you can only order via phone. I searched through BE forum for the phone number. I haven't used BCB because I still have an abundance of Precision Bullets left.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally, the reason for asking this question in the first place was because I was having issues with my Moly loads not chambering into battery all the was and I needed to know how much effort was going to be involved with switching back to FMJ's.

However, since then, I have also fixed the issues I was having with my Moly bullets. It turned out that while loading the Moly lead bullets, the seating/crimp (one stage) was forcing the diameter of the bullet to enlarge because as the bullet was being seated, the crimp on the case mouth was digging into the bullet.

You should have asked the real question. To avoid fowling make sure that you are not cutting the moly when seating the bullet. When you load moly bullets you need more bell on the case. If you are cutting the moly you will get tiny flakes of moly around the rim of the case.

If you do get serious fowling just wramp a piece of chore boy around a bore brush and it will take it right out. Avoid caustic chemicals that can do serious damange to the barrel in a matter of minutes.

Now I don't understand why I can order bullets from Montana Gold on Tuesday and get them on Friday, maybe I special? I quit Zeros because the supply was to ifey, If you can't get them when you need them, well its time to look elsewhere.

I've used Precision in the past (non Open gun) and they are great bullets, I've recently switched to BayouBullets and Donnie has been very good at getting them out to me, about two weeks on my recent order of 9 mm, 40, and 45 bullets. The things are clean, fly fast, don't smoke, and accurate enough for the game. Http://www.bayoubullets.net/products.html When I ordered I told him I wasn't sure the 45 SWC would run in my gun, he said no problem just send them back, now that is good customer service.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have to agree with CocoBolo, I order from Montana Gold on Monday and have bullets by the end of the week. And all my non jacketed bullets are Bayou Bullets, I am using the 160rn and 230rn in my revovlers and have used his 147 in my 9mm and Donnie is a great guy to deal with.

Greg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

According to Mr. Schumann, never put anything in the barrel.

He even recommend not touching the inside of the barrel! Not even boresnake.

Since then back in 2004, I never did. All my guns still shoots

accurately as the day I got them. I use moly and Jacketed...

No Issues. I recommend leave the barrel alone and just clean

other parts of the gun. Thats how I do it.

Edited by shooterbenedetto
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are firing rifle bullets that have MoS2 powder burnished into the bullets, some people have found rust and attribute it to moisture getting under the moly on the barrel.

For pistol bullets, you will be firing Moly-Kote, which is MoS2 in a polymer binder. I have never seen any residue with it nor worry about it. You should always clean your barrel before switching from jacketed to lead/moly-kote and vice versa.

My only gripe with Moly-Kote bullets is that they are getting to be the same price as jacketed bullets, so for 9mm and .38 super, I am starting to use jacketed bullets.

Check prices for Montana Gold or Precision Delta jacketed and compare to plated and commercial cast bullets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Youve been listening to snake oil salesmen, just shoot it and clean it like you normally would.

But wait... did you break in the barrel when you first bought the gun....

Nevermind that is more snake oil sales :)

On a serious note I have switched from Moly to Jacketed and back several times without ill effect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would like to follow up on this topic with an update.

Since listing this topic, I went ahead and decided I would find out first hand.

I loaded about 80 rounds of .45ACP 230g FMJ from Montana Gold with 4.8g of Winchester 231 (this is a load that I like to use "just for putting holes in paper"). With only a minor cleaning of the barrel (because I'm the type that prefers to maintain my firearms to a high quality), I went to my local range and did some test firing. Bare in mind that I hadn't removed any Moly from my barrel.

It is easiest just to say that the test rounds went as smooth as butter. Absolutely no issues from the Moly coated barrel. I'm glad to know that I'll be able to swap back and forth with little effort.

Originally, the reason for asking this question in the first place was because I was having issues with my Moly loads not chambering into battery all the was and I needed to know how much effort was going to be involved with switching back to FMJ's.

However, since then, I have also fixed the issues I was having with my Moly bullets. It turned out that while loading the Moly lead bullets, the seating/crimp (one stage) was forcing the diameter of the bullet to enlarge because as the bullet was being seated, the crimp on the case mouth was digging into the bullet.

I've learned that by separating the seating and crimping stages, it allows the bullet to be fully seated before any crimping is done and the diameter of the lead bullets does not enlarge. Now, my moly loads drop in and out of the chamber with ease during a "drop test".

Thanks to everyone for their input.

Happy shooting and keep'em in the A zone!

Not to change the subject(yeah right) but what are you shooting gunwise, OAL etc. I shoot a stock colt XSE 45 and found using under 5 gr 231 with FMJ Hornady 230 gr the gun wouldn't always fully cycle back to battery. OAL 1.25. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Below is some in-depth information regarding the gun and the ammo. Bare in mind that I have not been able to chrono these loads yet. I am in the beginning stages of working these loads up for use in USPSA style practice shooting. At this point I have not been concerned about making power factor. All I'm doing right now is "putting holes in paper". With the specs listed below, I have not experienced a single issue with the gun not cycling properly. The lowest powder charge I have tried was 4.2g of Winchester 231 and about every 3 round would "stove-pipe".

Gun:

Ruger P97DC, all factory parts. I have mic'd the chamber depth and it measured .90" from the lands and grooves to the end of the chamber hood. Unfortunately I do not have the correct equipment to mic the inside diameter of the chamber accurately. From what I have found, the factory recoil spring is 12lbs.

Ammunition:

Handloaded .45ACP 200gr Rnd Precision Moly Bullets

Brass: Reused Winchester cases from factory loads

Primer: CCI Large Pistol

Powder: 4.8g Winchester 231

OAL: 1.186

Crimp: -.001 (.470)

Handloaded .45ACP 230gr FMJ Montana Gold Bullets

Brass: Reused Winchester cases from factory loads

Primer: CCI Large Pistol

Powder: 4.8g Winchester 231

OAL: 1.245

Crimp: -.001 (.470)

If there is anything I have missed, please feel free to ask; I'll be more than happy to provided it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Bear Creek Bullets was also recommended to me but, from what I have found, you can only order via phone. I searched through BE forum for the phone number. I haven't used BCB because I still have an abundance of Precision Bullets left.

Vincent if your still looking for a Bear Creek bullet supplier there is one local in the area. Drop me a PM and I'll forward you his email.

Edited by Boxerglocker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...