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trouble shooting infinity open gun


sliphorn

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You have systematically eliminated the majority of the possible problems and, unless you replaced a bad barrel with another equally bad barrel, I would guess that the scope is the issue. Beg, borrow or steal another scope to try before you pull out any remaining hair that you have.

Actually, I've got another idea - one element that hasn't been eliminated. The OP said he already tried swapping scopes... but what about the mount itself? It could still be a bad mount affecting the C-More, which would explain why swapping scopes didn't make any difference.

Good thought. I checked the mount and everything is tight and solid.

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How about sending it to a really knowledgeable gunsmith who can 'first hand' diagnose the issue?

Trying to diagnose it here is not the most efficient way to do, in my opinion.

Three have worked on it so far. Two are guys whose work I have personally observed over the years. The third is the fellow who did the accu rail job and comes higly recommended by other smiths as well as in this forum. Been there done that, now have three barrels, none of which shoot, and three smiths scratching their heads. I hoped to run into someone in the forum who has had a similar quirk in the past. So far I have receive some good suggestions that haven't panned out as well as some responses that show the person hasn't read the posts. I thank all for their tries. We may get there yet.

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Ammo and the sight.

Plated bullets do not work well with comped guns and higher velocities.

Not alsays so. My other comp guns all work very well with plated bullets. I also use a custom open 40 S&W on an STI frame, a single stack switch top with 9mm and 38 super barrels, and a single stack .45 with a Clark drop in comped barrel. All shoot great and the plated bullets keep from getting lead in the bore from an exposed lead core of the FMJ base. I now only shoot jacketed hollow points or plated bullets in my comped guns to keep from havihg to scrape lead out of the comps. I have also observed others using plated bullets in comped high velocity guns with great success.

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From the title of the posting I'm assuming that once you fire that first shot all the rest are grouping?

How about once that mag is done...the next mag all shots together or is the first one ALWAYS a flier?

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From the title of the posting I'm assuming that once you fire that first shot all the rest are grouping?

How about once that mag is done...the next mag all shots together or is the first one ALWAYS a flier?

First shot always is a flier. All 6 mags produce the same result.

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Ammo and the sight.

Plated bullets do not work well with comped guns and higher velocities.

Not alsays so. My other comp guns all work very well with plated bullets. I also use a custom open 40 S&W on an STI frame, a single stack switch top with 9mm and 38 super barrels, and a single stack .45 with a Clark drop in comped barrel. All shoot great and the plated bullets keep from getting lead in the bore from an exposed lead core of the FMJ base. I now only shoot jacketed hollow points or plated bullets in my comped guns to keep from havihg to scrape lead out of the comps. I have also observed others using plated bullets in comped high velocity guns with great success.

Im just speaking from experience with my SV open guns, none of which would run plated bullets. Impacts were all over the place. the bullet would stay intact but past 7 yards the accuracy was horrible.

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It sounds like most variables have been accounted for. But I did not see any checks done for headspacing between your barrel and the rounds you load. That would be my first place to check.

Try this, load 1 mag to capacity and dump is as fast as you can. Take another mag now that the BBL is warm, and from a rest see what it groups like. If there is an issue with anything out of alignment the accuracy will improve with a warm barrel.

Then look at your ammo to make sure it is headspacing correctly on OAL.

It sounds like you have eliminated all the usual suspects, so this is the only other way I can think of to check for concentricity.

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  • 2 weeks later...

One thing I haven't read being covered is the hole in the frame for the slide stop. I would measure and check it carefully, they can be oversize and egg shaped, however that is a lot of error for that to cover.

You are describing a set of circumstances that really can't happen, if everything is good the pistol has to shoot better than that. I have had terrible luck with plated bullets, I would test it with some Hornaday XTPs or Sierra HPs in new cases to eliminate ammo. Anytime I'm presented with impossible results I go back and look at the data. Something that is reported to be good must not be for some reason. The only thing besides ammo I've seen make a 1911 shoot that bad is very excessive clearance between the hood and breach face. Even a bullet hitting the comp or messed up crown will shoot ok groups just in the wrong place.

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Hello: Buy some Winchester white box and see how it shoots. That takes the reloads out of it and may get you closer to what is going on. Thanks, Eric

+1. Or even better, buy two or three different

brands of factory ammo (maybe a premium brand)

and check to see how accurate they are.

Sounds like a good possibility it's the ammo.

Or, try some of the ammo from your friend who

lent you his C-More - try his ammo in your gun?

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  • 1 month later...

Problem solved! The smith found the recoil spring bushing was contacting the comp when the action closed. Closing after a reload gave different locking than closing after previous shot. Continual rapping of bushing on comp would eventually break the loctite seal and loosen the comp resulting in slight bullet contact, further affecting accuracy. Solution was to relieve back of comp slightly, eliminating contact. Gun now shoots and functions fine. I used it at PSA Shootout and did my best open shooting ever. (beat the smith) Thanks for all the good suggestions. There is always a logical reason if we can find it.

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Wow, that was an epic read. I was about to suggest a couple of things to look at, but I guess we're done with this one. This will be a good thread to help people in the future to diagnose mysterious accuracy problems.

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WOW! great fix....A buddy had Clark drop in compensated barrel he doesn't use anymore so we installed it in my S&W yesterday...I couldn't believe how it fit without any fitting. The only thing was that the Guide rod bushing would hit-rub against the comp. He had a two piece GR and this solved the problem...BTW it grouped 1.5 ay 25 yards off a wobbly rest..:)

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