Dillon Super 1050 and Accessories

[arjuna70]

I've decided on getting the Dillon Super 1050 and had a couple questions. I'm getting a lot of shoulder problems and my Orthopedist thinks that it is the reloading. I'm primarily a Bullseye shooter and load 45ACP and 38spl. The Dillon would be set up for 45ACP.

First, do any of the bullet feeders for this press take LSWC or just FMJ or Plated Bullets. I shoot 200gr + 185gr SWC and SWCHP rounds primarily. I do load 230gr FMJ for Distinguished, but not as much as the other two.

Second, does anyone have the Ponsness/Warren auto drive and how well does it work. Can you use it without a bullet feeder or do you need one. I'm not sure how it would work without a bullet feeder. Can you disconnect it and then go manual?

Third, can you easily change bullets by just swapping out the dies. To go from LSWC to FMJ.

Lastly, Dillon has a conversion kit for $250. Does this kit make the process any easier? Or is it a huge deal to go from large to small primer.

I currently use a Hornady LNL Progressive which I love. But thinking about moving up. Thanks for the help.

[Dale Rader]

I have the KISS bullet feeder on mine and so far, it feeds any bullet I put in it.

As for the P/W autodrive, there is no way I would run it without a bullet feeder. You won't want your hands inside the machine while it is running that fast.

On the Primer issue, it takes a while to swap from large to small. That machine was made for production and not swapping calibers/primers as easy as the other machines.

Hope this helps some.

Dale

[arjuna70]

I have the KISS bullet feeder on mine and so far, it feeds any bullet I put in it.

Where do you get the KISS bullet feeder?

[Bigpops]

I have the KISS bullet feeder on mine and so far, it feeds any bullet I put in it.

Where do you get the KISS bullet feeder?

Try Power Factor Shooting - awesome to deal with!

http://www.powerfactorshooting.com/default.asp

Edited December 16, 2010 by Bigpops

[jaredr]

First, do any of the bullet feeders for this press take LSWC or just FMJ or Plated Bullets. I shoot 200gr + 185gr SWC and SWCHP rounds primarily. I do load 230gr FMJ for Distinguished, but not as much as the other two.

mr, bulletfeeder will run fine with lead but you may need to clean out the collator assembly every 500-1000 rounds depending upon how sticky the bullet lube is. i use a very inexpensive 200gr LSWC from valliant which has a red lube that always seems to gum things up by 500 rounds, other bullets like lase-cast may not give you the same issue. no problem feeding jacketed semi-wadcutters, I have not tried plated semi-wadcutters but I would imagine they will feed just the same as jacketed.

Second, does anyone have the Ponsness/Warren auto drive and how well does it work. Can you use it without a bullet feeder or do you need one. I'm not sure how it would work without a bullet feeder. Can you disconnect it and then go manual?

auto-drive works well, but I would not reccomend using one until you have become very familiar with operating the press manually, otherwise you are very likely to break things and/or injure yourself in the event you get your hands anywhere near the press while operating it via autodrive

I would not use an autodrive without an automated bulletfeeder. My experience with Mr. Bulletfeeder (formerly KISS bulletfeeder) is so positive I (personally) won't bother trying any of the other recently released competing products (Hornady, RCBS) even though they are $100-$200 less expensive.

yes, you can disconnect the autodrive and reattach the press handle to operate it manually.

Third, can you easily change bullets by just swapping out the dies. To go from LSWC to FMJ.

not sure what you're referring to here. if you're referring to the bullet seating die, then yes you can swap them out as easily on the 1050 as on any other press. Changing from one bullet profile to the next may require minor adjustment to the Mr. Bulletfeeder device, but it will feed LSWC, FMJ ball, and hollowpoints without problem.

Lastly, Dillon has a conversion kit for $250. Does this kit make the process any easier? Or is it a huge deal to go from large to small primer.

changing primer size is cumbersome, takes me about an hour including time to adjust/check primer seating depth. per Dale Rader's comment, I would not plan on swapping back and forth between primer sizes if you can avoid it.

[jaredr]

I have the KISS bullet feeder on mine and so far, it feeds any bullet I put in it.

Where do you get the KISS bullet feeder?

www.mrbulletfeeder.com. Posness warren resells them, as does angus hobdell (www.czcustom.com)

[arjuna70]

Thanks everyone for the detailed and prompt responses. I think I'll take the advice and just order the Dillon setup first and then after a few months go all in with the Posness auto drive setup. The lack of upstroke is probably going to make the biggest difference. That's when my shoulder started clicking with the machine. Are there any other things you would doing or reading with regard to a new Super 1050. Thanks everyone again for the info.

[Bigpops]

Keep in mind, the autodrive will void the Dillon warrenty.

[arjuna70]

Keep in mind, the autodrive will void the Dillon warrenty.

My understanding was that the warranty was only for one year anyway. Dillon makes you pay for the parts after one year.

[Bigpops]

Keep in mind, the autodrive will void the Dillon warrenty.

My understanding was that the warranty was only for one year anyway. Dillon makes you pay for the parts after one year.

Thanks for fixing my spelling of "warranty"..I missed that! Yes, you are correct. Just wanted to make sure you knew.

Though the warranty expires in a year I have had different parts replaced on mine with no questions asked.

[noylj]

I don't see the primer switch as being that big a deal. I do wish that Dillon was more explicit in their instructions for changing the priming system. You have a primer tube, the primer slider, the primer punch and the primer spring to switch and the plug to tighten down and ensure that the slider passes over it without drag. Adjusting primer seating depth involves one case and one primer, unless you do something seriously wrong. The only "problem" I have had was remembering to switch out the primer pocket swage rod. Since I seldom even think about it, since I don't have any new military brass that needs swaging, I just turn it down so it isn't even functioning.

All I currently shoot in .45 are 200 gn H&G68 L-SWC, I don't remember exactly, but I believe the Dillon seating die has one end of the seating stem for SWC and the other end for RN. It is a great die to use for lead bullets, as it is even easier to clean than the Hornady, but I prefer the Hornady seaters for most cartridges.

I find that it is difficult for me to inspect each charge, so I run an RCBS Lock-Out die in station 6.

You can watch videos of the KISS and other bullet feeders and the P/W auto-drive on YouTube.

[John Wayne]

I've loaded 9000+ .38 special this year on a 650. I throw in a few lubed cases every 15 rounds or so. Lubed cases reduce the effort by a solid 45%. You could certainly lube them all.

[G-ManBart]

Thanks everyone for the detailed and prompt responses. I think I'll take the advice and just order the Dillon setup first and then after a few months go all in with the Posness auto drive setup. The lack of upstroke is probably going to make the biggest difference. That's when my shoulder started clicking with the machine. Are there any other things you would doing or reading with regard to a new Super 1050. Thanks everyone again for the info.

I think you'll find that the effort is pretty low on the 1050 compared to many other presses...and you can adjust the length of the handle to where it feels right. Just a little bit of lube will make a huge difference, and not get everything gummed up. I'm not a fan of most commercial case lubes. I get a tube of pure, unscented lanolin at the drug store (often behind the counter), put 2-300 cases in a box, put a dab of lanolin maybe 1/3 to 1/2 the size of a No.2 pencil eraser on one hand, then work it all around both hands (heat from your skin softens it)...then just run your hands through the cases, grabbing handfuls at a time. Most people use way too much the first time or two, so put less on your hand than you think you need. It makes the press run smoother/easier, doesn't get in the cases to contaminate the powder, costs a fraction of commercial lube (one $10-15 tube will last you years), and it's good for your skin! R,

[pjb45]

First, talk with Angus. He has the setup you are thinking about using. It works great. You can order both aftermarket items from him directly.

Second, the throw on the 1050 is much better than other Dillon presses. It primes on the way down and the handle is quite long giving you a mechnical advantage. You might not need the autodrive.

Third, although I have friends at Dillon who help me out greatly when I am in Scottsdale, I usually order directly from Brian, our host. I just placed another order yesterday with him. The key for me is I usually forget about something and Brian has all the information in his head as to what you need for what you are trying to accomplish. He makes it so much easier.

Fourth, I have taken my priming system off so many times, I can change it out in less than 5 minutes. It is quite simple (after the first 100,000 times )

Fifth, I usually just use a RCSD. It you are anal rententive you can experiment with your different bullets, document the settings for each type of bullet, and the RCSD is totally repeatable in adjustments.

Sixth, I changed out the powder measuring bar to another brand and I like it better. The micro adjustments give me more confidence in what I am doing. It readings/settings are repeatable. By this I mmean, I can adjust the amount of powder drop without have to do 30 or 40 measurements. I usually do three or so to get in the neighborhood, then 10 in a row to get a better average. I repeat the 10 in a row several times. Now with the micro-adjustment, I just confirm the measurements once and be done with it.

In Summary, Call Angus for the aftermarkedt stuff and order the Dillon via Brian.

[arjuna70]

First, talk with Angus. He has the setup you are thinking about using. It works great. You can order both aftermarket items from him directly.

Second, the throw on the 1050 is much better than other Dillon presses. It primes on the way down and the handle is quite long giving you a mechnical advantage. You might not need the autodrive.

Third, although I have friends at Dillon who help me out greatly when I am in Scottsdale, I usually order directly from Brian, our host. I just placed another order yesterday with him. The key for me is I usually forget about something and Brian has all the information in his head as to what you need for what you are trying to accomplish. He makes it so much easier.

Fourth, I have taken my priming system off so many times, I can change it out in less than 5 minutes. It is quite simple (after the first 100,000 times )

Fifth, I usually just use a RCSD. It you are anal rententive you can experiment with your different bullets, document the settings for each type of bullet, and the RCSD is totally repeatable in adjustments.

Sixth, I changed out the powder measuring bar to another brand and I like it better. The micro adjustments give me more confidence in what I am doing. It readings/settings are repeatable. By this I mmean, I can adjust the amount of powder drop without have to do 30 or 40 measurements. I usually do three or so to get in the neighborhood, then 10 in a row to get a better average. I repeat the 10 in a row several times. Now with the micro-adjustment, I just confirm the measurements once and be done with it.

In Summary, Call Angus for the aftermarkedt stuff and order the Dillon via Brian.

Thanks a lot for the advice. I appreciate it. Sorry for the dumb responses:

First, what is RCSD?

Second, I am familiar with the Hornady Powder Measure system on my LNL press. What is the problem with the measure on this press. Which powder measuring system do you use for better adjustments.

I also noticed a lot of complaints in the 1050 threads about the primer catch system. Is there a specific thread that deals with a better mod. On the Hornady, the primers go into a tube which goes out of the way into a small container.

How about the Powder Check Die with the alarm and the Powder Sensing system with alarm, any suggestions with those?

[Jonathan Taliani]

1. I believe he is referring to the Redding Competition Seating Die.

2. There are micrometer powder bar replacements. A company called uniquetek makes one, but there may be others.

3. I'm not familiar with the LNL system, but it sounds similar to the mod many do to their Dillon presses. There are many threads on the topic.

Hope this helps!

[HI5-O]

I think he is referring to the Redding Competition Seating Die (has the micrometer to easily calculate your seating depth)

Lubing your cases makes it a whole lot easier to size and it lessened the strain on my elbow.

Another area where you will run into 'resistance' is in using new brass, I find the powder drop sticks a little in the case on the up stroke. No problem with that when using fired brass.

I had a Squared Deal, have two 550's and now only use the S1050.

Buy yours before the price increase in 2011.

[G-ManBart]

Another area where you will run into 'resistance' is in using new brass, I find the powder drop sticks a little in the case on the up stroke. No problem with that when using fired brass.

I had a Squared Deal, have two 550's and now only use the S1050.

Buy yours before the price increase in 2011.

I found the same thing with new brass. If you run new cases through the tumbler with relatively clean media, for 15min, it seems to solve the problem...must be a tiny bit of the media leaving a film that helps them come off the expander funnel. R,

[noylj]

I have arthritis in my hands, elbows, and shoulder. The 1050s don't aggravate my condition. If you keep the press at desk height, the motion, for me, is almost more back and forth than up and down. I pull back halfway and then forward halfway for each cycle, so my shoulder is pretty much out of the action. Also, the press move very smoothly (that was one reason I "fell in love" with them and, in fact, you need to eliminate any jerking motions for the press to be "happy."

If you can try one yourself, you should. Planning any trips to Phoenix? There is one in the Dillon store you can play with.

[John Wayne]

" also noticed a lot of complaints in the 1050 threads about the primer catch system. Is there a specific thread that deals with a better mod. On the Hornady, the primers go into a tube which goes out of the way into a small container"

Not true on the 1050. You must be thinking of the 650 which does spit out some spent primers. A seller on ebay has a slick attachment with tubing that routes the spent primers to a bottle on the floor. I have not experienced the spent primer problem on my 1050, however, I have not had it long.

[pjb45]

My RL 1050 has stations one and two set up for spent primers. I use two tubes from which the spent primers are pushed out by the decapping dies and fall into a bin which collects them. After about 5000 spent primers I just dump the bin and start all over.

[arjuna70]

I really want to thank everyone for their help and suggestions. I actually went ahead and got the 1050 for Christmas and a friend of mine whose had a 1050 for some time came over and help me set it up. I absolutely love the machine. It is so smoooooth. The action is very easy to work and the lack of upstroke is the big difference to me. You can load fast, safely, and accurately. I'll wait a little while before getting the Bullet feeder and maybe in the distant future a Posner drive. Thanks again everyone for the help.

The Finished Product

[Merlin Orr]

The SWC is a tiny bit short IMO. Leave about a thumbnail thickness of lead exposed over the brass.

You have a great machine,,,,,

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: I have a RL 1050 that has the Mr Bulletfeeder on it. Rick who makes the bullet feeder is great to deal with. I bought mine from Sean at Power Factor and had a bit of a wait but it was not his fault. Rick the owner of Mr bulletefeeder told me he was waiting on parts from an outside vender and was going to start doing more stuff in house. I would not use a 1050 without the bullet feeder now. As for the power drive I don't think I need one since I can load alot of rounds in an hour without it I think your wadcutter needs more length to the shoulder. I use about the thickness of a dime. Thanks, Eric

[twodownzero]

I'm so envious of you guys. One day, One day!

Now back to the press to load the last of the 7,000 rounds I've loaded on my 550 in the last week or so.