Flexmoney Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 I used to run our local Steel Challenge match, and I'd buy all the paint for that match and for the other matches at the club as well. Having tried a bunch of stuff, I always went back to the 98 cent regular spray paint at Wal-mart. Sure, there are paints that are a little bit better, but a lot more expensive. At the Area 5 match in Polo, IL they had some awesome stuff. I know it is expensive, but it works fantastically well. INVERTED MARKING PAINT SPRAY Try a can. It has got to last a long time, as you only need a touch of it...and it's easy to aim. (I was shooting Alphas with the paint can all day...who doesn't love shooting Alphas ?!!?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbrowndog Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 on painting steel, what I've noticed is that most everyone places the can much too close to the steel when painting, and then it tends to run off. 8-12" seems to work the best and allows the paint to dry quicker and ensure that it does not run. people want to spot paint the hits instead of cover the plate, this leads to poor coverage. 1.00 cans work great if used properly. when the match is done if you'll invert the can and spray until no paint comes out they should last until they are empty and the tips will not clog. trapr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hefta Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 I am with you Flex, I hate paying big bucks for paint but the cheap paint doesn't work, so the moral of the story is don't be so cheap and buy the good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M ammo Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 I am with you Flex, I hate paying big bucks for paint but the cheap paint doesn't work, so the moral of the story is don't be so cheap and buy the good stuff. “You get what you pay for” Genius !!!!!! Off to the store to buy some 1943 WWII Surplus ammunition to put in my new Open race gun! Just kidding good point! We did get some, Gal cans cheap, and used a big paint brush, it worked well,,, but,, you still got paint on you,,, somehow,,, Paint is magic like that,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 If you want fast drying use "flat" paints. The best stuff I have ever used is automotive header paint. It's bucks up but it is dry almost as soon as it hits the metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 That marker paint is some good shit. Makes target restorations quicker and you get sold white cover. Thanks for noticing... Was good to finally meet you too. JT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvb Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 If you want fast drying use "flat" paints. The best stuff I have ever used is automotive header paint. It's bucks up but it is dry almost as soon as it hits the metal. primers seem to work well, too. -rvb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murkish Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 primers seem to work well, too. -rvb YOU'VE GOT PRIMERS?!? WHERE DID YOU GET THEM AND HOW MUCH DID THEY COST?!?! Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cy Soto Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 I have tried many different brands and this is the best stuff that I have come across: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 I thought the same thing about the marker paint....it was immediately "oh, this is much better!". R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted June 15, 2010 Author Share Posted June 15, 2010 Thanks for noticing... <<<<<<<-------------- All part of that big red eye. Now what just gotta figure out what chefcs5 was talking about on his stage when he was telling somebody you and I were "arguing" about something on the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezco Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 The McCann marker paint they had at Area 5 was a great time saver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickpony Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 I like KILZ, it covers great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Some of the cheap stuff is like squirting 1% milk on the steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Thanks for noticing... <<<<<<<-------------- All part of that big red eye. Now what just gotta figure out what chefcs5 was talking about on his stage when he was telling somebody you and I were "arguing" about something on the forum. Haven't a clue... we haven't had any contrary words in months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cy Soto Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Some of the cheap stuff is like squirting 1% milk on the steel. Great comparison!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 on painting steel, what I've noticed is that most everyone places the can much too close to the steel when painting, and then it tends to run off. 8-12" seems to work the best and allows the paint to dry quicker and ensure that it does not run. people want to spot paint the hits instead of cover the plate, this leads to poor coverage. 1.00 cans work great if used properly. when the match is done if you'll invert the can and spray until no paint comes out they should last until they are empty and the tips will not clog. trapr Here in Great Falls anything farther away than 6" won't even get to the steel. Best so far is the Krylon with the angling fan tip. Something about living in an area with a 14MPH average wind speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynn jones Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 I have tried many different brands and this is the best stuff that I have come across: the crew used this stuff at the 2010 Mississippi classic, i was very impressed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Ankeny Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 Lawson makes some high solids spray paint that is fantastic. Unfortunately, it is hard to find. I am about out so I bought some white marking paint this morning and it works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cheely Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 +1 Best paint I've ever seen at a match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filishooter Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 Much of the contents of an aerosol paint can is wasted on the propellant. I wonder if anyone has tried a small automotive detail spray gun and mini compressor? I would guess it would work better than the marker paint and your paint cost would be lower buying the paint in a 1 gallon cans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 I wonder if anyone has tried a small automotive detail spray gun and mini compressor? At that point I'd just get a gallon of Latex, a pan and a roller. Just let someone else reset the plates... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Heiter Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 (edited) I haven't tried the marker paint yet but I will. So far the Rustoleum UC2 was the best I had found. Yes it costs more than the cheap but I really think we save money using it and for smaller matches without dedicated RO crews I think it's the way to go. I'm not sure if it was his idea or what, but Sam Keen taught me a painting trick at a 3-gun match he was running that I felt worked really well for bigger matches with dedicated RO's. He had a bunch of cheap plastic paint trays, some paint pads, and and a gallon of white paint. We diluted the paint a bit to make it go farther and dry faster. One person walking down range would dip a pad in the paint tray and could then "butter" about a dozen steel targets as fast as you could walk by them. It worked especially well for this match where poppers were getting blasted by shotguns w/ bird shot so there was a lot of area to be repainted. Probably wouldn't want a full gallon of paint sitting on every stage since they won't need it but I'm thinking you could probably get a couple gallons of paint and divide it into individual plastic bottles like empty gatorade bottles with the twist shut caps or something so the RO's could refill their trays as needed. Edited June 18, 2010 by John Heiter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brunoclaus Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 You hear her but you may not see the icons in the hidden ball targets. The bullets remove both black and white paint underneath, leaving almost an icon of black lead. Painting all white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZip Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 I have seen the roller thing done with weenie rollers, and cut down gallon milk jugs. You can even buy paint that is not quite white/white at discount at times if it was mixed for someone who didn't want it. When the steel is all down, or not, you have one guy go through and roll em, and then another goes through and sets them up behind him. If they are not falling argets, just roll the face. It sure is nice to shoot a stage and all the steel is freshly rolled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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