1100 Lube recommendations please

[swandme]

What is the best lube for the 1100 gas system area and anything up under the hand gard ?

What do you like for lube in the Action area ?

Thanks

Dan

[ShooterSteve]

Sometimes I use remoil, sometimes I use 5W-20 synthetic. Depends on which bottle is closest. Both are very thin and provide lube with out being gummy or slowing down the slide action.

[LPatterson]

Mobil 1 0W-20 in a 4-1 mix with STP.

[M ammo]

FNH SLP or Benelli

Jim M ammo

[Mattog22]

I've had good luck just coating with remoil spray. I have some mobil 0w-20, can it be used succesfully or is it too thin?

[AlamoShooter]

cooking -(Pam)- works very good on Browning's and 1100 I used it a bunch on my Gold shotguns - did not shoot the 1100 much, but some friends did, Just don't let it sit for a few month with-out using it as it will gum up. And test it with some light loads first.= the bolt will move much faster than you are used to.

JF

no I am not joking

[M ammo]

cooking -(Pam)- works very good on Browning's and 1100 I used it a bunch on my Gold shotguns - did not shoot the 1100 much, but some friends did, Just don't let it sit for a few month with-out using it as it will gum up. And test it with some light loads first.= the bolt will move much faster than you are used to.

JF

no I am not joking

Ok I can't help it,, ,, PAM was that low fat,,, or Butter Flavor..

Jim M ammo

[MarkCO]

I have found Break-Free CLP to be the best for the tube and gas system moving parts. Keeps the carbon suspended in the fluid and makles it really easy to clean. I use some "non-gun" oils, cleaners and lubes on many of my guns, but for the 1100 to keep it consistent and slick, the CLP is the ticket. Remember that there are at least 4 different tube "finishes" from the factory and they all may not respond the same.

[Big Bore]

Lots of 10-30 mobil synthetic, and I mean dripping with it.

[StealthyBlagga]

I've been using Break Free CLP on the gas components of my 11-87 for years... never had a problem.

[jobob]

I was advised by a friend last year to run my 1100 and 1187 nearly dry. This friend used to be on the national trap circuit and was sponsored by Browning. He's put more shells down the tube than I'll ever see. He said the tube/piston should have almost no lube, except for maybe one drop of oil (I use Break Free CLP0) spread around on the tube. My guns went from temperamental to about as reliable as a Remmy can be. I had been over-lubing before. Now I lube up the moving parts in the receiver area, the bolt and action bars, but only the very lightest lube on the tube and piston.

The problem is that carbon fouling mixes with oil, forming a thick sludge, and this slows the action down. Without the oil to attract it in the piston area, the fouling is ejected through the ports.

I first tried my friend's suggestion at last year's Ironman. For the first time, my 1187 functioned flawlessly through the whole match (with one exception which was unrelated to the piston area - an EZ Load problem). I was dead beat in the evenings, so my sg did not see a cleaning for the 3 days and approx. 300 rounds of the match, but continued to function very well.

[swandme]

Lots of great info Thanks

I am going to try the DRY

Dan

[BPiatt]

He said the tube/piston should have almost no lube, except for maybe one drop of oil (I use Break Free CLP0) spread around on the tube. My guns went from temperamental to about as reliable as a Remmy can be. I had been over-lubing before. Now I lube up the moving parts in the receiver area, the bolt and action bars, but only the very lightest lube on the tube and piston.

I agree... very light on the mag tube.... nothing on the metal or rubber gas rings. I lube the action and the action bars substantially. Even when the gun is assembled, I'll put a drop down where the charge handle goes, I make sure the interceptor latch is wet, and that goes for the entire trigger group.

I use Masters Gun Care Products for oil.

I think of oiling guns like oiling your car.... you wouldn't think of running your car engine without oil... why would you run your gun without it? They're both comprised of moving metal parts.

[jobob]

He said the tube/piston should have almost no lube, except for maybe one drop of oil (I use Break Free CLP0) spread around on the tube. My guns went from temperamental to about as reliable as a Remmy can be. I had been over-lubing before. Now I lube up the moving parts in the receiver area, the bolt and action bars, but only the very lightest lube on the tube and piston.

I agree... very light on the mag tube.... nothing on the metal or rubber gas rings. I lube the action and the action bars substantially. Even when the gun is assembled, I'll put a drop down where the charge handle goes, I make sure the interceptor latch is wet, and that goes for the entire trigger group.

I use Masters Gun Care Products for oil.

I think of oiling guns like oiling your car.... you wouldn't think of running your car engine without oil... why would you run your gun without it? They're both comprised of moving metal parts.

Nice to be vindicated by someone who actually REALLY knows something!

Thanks, Bruce!

[Shadowrider]

You might try Eezox. It's synthetic, is very good against corrosion and most importantly it dries. If used properly it's basically a dry lube. I only use it for corrosion protection, but the 1100's gas system seems like a good application for it.

[TwoShot]

I used to train instructors for the shotgun discipline in the National 4-H Shooting Sports program. The topic of lubing a Remington 1100 would always come up. If it didn't, I would see that it did. Over the years I hear many interesting theory's. I would then bring in my old friend Jack Heath from Remington. Jack would spray Rem Oil on the outside of the magazine tube and rub it around with his finger until the entire exterior of the tube was coated. He would then wipe it all off with a rag. "Wipe it all off" is a mis-statement, because due to the nature of the metal and the oil, you can't physically remove it all. He did the same with the gas rings, back then there were 2. Jack told the class that the lube remaining was all that was necessary for good operation, any free liquid combined with carbon to form fouling that would lead to failure. I do not shoot 3 gun but have shot clays for many years and this advice has proven to be truth in my experience.

[old506]

I have shot an 1100 and now an 11-87 for well over twenty years and this is basically what I do, spray it on and wipe it clean. I can "feel" when my 1100 is slowing down. I just wipe down the chamber with a paper towel with oil on it and then wipe it dry and the same thing on the magazine tube with, I feel, the outside of the magazine tube being the most important.

I used to train instructors for the shotgun discipline in the National 4-H Shooting Sports program. The topic of lubing a Remington 1100 would always come up. If it didn't, I would see that it did. Over the years I hear many interesting theory's. I would then bring in my old friend Jack Heath from Remington. Jack would spray Rem Oil on the outside of the magazine tube and rub it around with his finger until the entire exterior of the tube was coated. He would then wipe it all off with a rag. "Wipe it all off" is a mis-statement, because due to the nature of the metal and the oil, you can't physically remove it all. He did the same with the gas rings, back then there were 2. Jack told the class that the lube remaining was all that was necessary for good operation, any free liquid combined with carbon to form fouling that would lead to failure. I do not shoot 3 gun but have shot clays for many years and this advice has proven to be truth in my experience.

[WS6]

LaRue MG Lube is what I reach for when I want a thin lube that will not burn off.

[Les Snyder]

I have a friend with a scary go-fast boat powered by a Mercury outboard. He was having problems with fouling sparkplugs until he switched to Mercury "quicksilver" racing oil. It dissipates and suspends carbon deposits. He mixed with some "teflon" settled out of a Break Free bottle and introduced it to the Tampa Bay shooters. We call it "Leo lube". I use it straight without the teflon and use it exclusively for all my toys. I shot 1100's and 1187's until I saw the light ... heavy on the rails, light on the tube, your shirt should have an oil slick if you shoot a .45.

regards Les

[swandme]

Thanks for the tip

What do you shoot now ?

[Chivas]

I use a thin coat of RemOil on everything. I have one of the last JP 1187's before JP stopped making them. I have only had 1 malfunction. The biggest thing is to clean it after you shoot it. I mean EVERY TIME!!!!!!!!!!!! It is a pain, especially after a long day at Nationals. IT IS A GAS GUN!!!!!!!!! It wants to be clean.

[grywlfbg]

+1 Chivas.

I treat my 1100 Tactical like my AR - I clean and lube w/ CLP (wipe down w/ patches w/ CLP on them until they're clean - it's not dripping but everything is coated) after every shooting session. Hasn't ever let me down.

Edited November 24, 2010 by grywlfbg

[Remington4Life]

No problems with my 1100 Competition Master, I just clean it every couple matches...