Question regarding .40 S&W brass

[Bolted_Down]

Hey all.

I've been reloading for a while now and have prided myself on safety that begins and ends with a rigorous(some would say bordering on ridiculous)quality control /inspection process.

After working up several dependable and accurate loads for my XD9 and 1911, I bought my first .40 S&W.

Well, I started reading and quickly came across the "glock bulge" subject in my research.

Both, my S&W 4006 and to a lesser extent my Beretta mod.96 leave a bulge in the brass.

I have acquired a Lee single stage "O" frame and Lee's factory crimp die/bulge buster kit. The once bulged brass comes out LOOKING like new.

My question is this...

Once bulged and then fully resized to factory specs, how durable is that 40 S&W case in the long run?

How many reloads are you getting out of your .40 S&W brass??

[jimzim]

I've used my resized .40 S&W brass many times over without problems. I do, however, give them a once over for cracks and signs of separation before putting them back to service. I have yet come across any rejects.

[GrumpyOne]

I've reloaded thousands of "Glocked" brass, never had one split yet. I generally lose them probably after 12-15 reloads.

[CocoBolo]

I use a redding GRX. If you are loading Moly or Cast bullets (180-200gr) and lengths out to 1.180-1.20 the brass lasts and lasts with no issues, at least 10 loadings. No on the other hand if you are using jacketed bullets even in weights up to 180 with lengths less than 1.160 say 1.12-1.13 then you will need to watch the brass much more carefully and dispose of it after 5-7 loadings. This is because you are using more powder and creating more pressure.

I learned this shooting a CZ Tactical Sport that had to have short loads to fit in the mag, and would not shoot cast or moly bullets well. I started getting case splits and head separations. I also shot some 135gr bullets at 1400 fps in an open gun and that brass lost tension in the primer pocket. If you see primers in the corn you know its time to throw it out, the brass that is, keep the corn.

Typical load diff Moly 185gr = 4.7 gr Wst Jacketed 180gr = 5.1gr wst. and recall the one with less powder is much longer, making it easier on the brass.

A little one shot on the cases and your brass will last longer as will your arms.

[Bolted_Down]

Thanks for the advice, everyone.

Mine look nothing like these. LOL!

The mis-shape in my fired brass is barely noticeable to the naked eye, a simple "coke bottle" shape, maybe a little more pronounced on one side than the other.

A 'drop in' chamber look shows part of the case wall near the web (maybe 1/8 to 3/16") as unsupported on the underside, just above the feed ramp.

My loading is in the mid range of published data(Lyman's 49th), started at the low point and worked up to its present mark:

Mixed brass

RMR 165gr Plated RNFP

5.5 gr HP-38

CCI SP primer

OAL 1.125

[Jman]

B.D.

The key is inspecting each and EVERY case before they see your press. 40's like to split around the base.

I have loaded maybe 30,000 40 S&W. One like this got past me a couple months ago.

Seperated during a match. No harm done.*** But I'm pretty sure my heart skipped a beat...or two.

Don't let it happen to you. Carefully inspect your cases.

*** edited to add. No serious harm to me. Broke some easily replaceable gun parts.

Edited March 31, 2010 by Jman

[G-ManBart]

My question is this...

Once bulged and then fully resized to factory specs, how durable is that 40 S&W case in the long run?

How many reloads are you getting out of your .40 S&W brass??

Most of my brass is once-fired that has previously been shot in Glocks. I tumble it, run it through a U-die and then load it until the case mouth splits and the headstamp is almost gone. I haven't tried counting how many uses that adds up to, but it's got to be ten or more. R,

[pjb45]

I have a bunch of once fired LEO range brass. I loaded it until I see a crack or split. EGW undersize die is station 2 of my 1050. Lube it good and no worries. Ten or more is the norm for me too.

[TonyT]

I have used one fired 40 S&W from Glock's using my Dillon 550 and normal Lee carbide sizing die. The normal Lee die appears to remove the bulge from this brass and I useit in my STI Trojan, PO16-40, CZ-40B and a S&W 646 revolver. Personally I would not shoot them a second time in a Glock 40 S&W. As a maztter of practise I reload the high pressure cases such as 9mm and 40 S&W four times before consigning them to the scrap heap.

Edited April 13, 2010 by TonyT

[Sgt Smith]

You sound like you’re already doing the most important thing to prevent a case failure during the inspection process. Rather than relying on a specific number of firings to ensure safety, continue to look at the cases, particularly the base and extractor groove. The angle at the base of the case where it meets the extractor groove is 45 degrees. If it starts to look rounded and doesn't have a crisp angle any more, probably time to put it in the scrap bucket.

I agree with grumpyone, as long as you don't push them ridiculously hard, you'll lose them before they go bad.

[Five of Clubs]

+1 For "the shoot them until they split" option. But, I hand prime and carefully inspect each case while doing it. I also don't push them to published limits. If I used a progressive press I would hesitate too.

[8082011]

For what it's worth, I reload my 40's on a 650. Use a EGW U die in station 2 and have no problems with "Glock brass"

[Pro2AInPA]

All you need is a U die from EGW.

[kamikaze1a]

The way I look at it, if it was MY GLOCK that Glocked the brass, then I would be more concerned. Reason being that it will get Glocked again and again and again with each firing. The brass will eventually get work hardened and could fail, especially if it got bulged in the same position several times.

On the other hand, I have no reservations about using once fired brass that is bulged because I will size the bulge away and use it in a barrel with a tighter, better supported chamber and it will not bulge again... And I can keep reloading that brass until it splits or the primer pockets get loose.

[sargenv]

Almost all of the 40 brass I shoot will eventually split from the case mouth rear ward. I have only one time had a case head failure and it was due to the bad combination of short seated 200 gr bullet with a max charge of powder.. The gun was fine (Para P16) but it blew out the only 10 round mag I had at the time..

I would say a majority of the brass I use had been fired in Police Glocks before I got ahold of it and I just put them all through the U die and load them for a 610, a Sig 229, and a Para P16.. Depending on the load, it can be interchanged among all of them (loaded longer than 1.140", I only shoot em in the Para and S&W).

[RePete]

I roll size my brass with a CasePro100, so no problems there.

You will more than likely lose the brass before it becomes a problem.

I nspect after they are loaded and as I put them in factory ammo boxes.

I have loaded without roll sizing and haven't had a problem. I'm shooting a G35 and an STI Trojan.

[hrt4me]

I inspect every piece of brass before I load it, and I inspect every loaded round before I fire it. No problems yet in 19 years of loading.

[duct tape]

For what it's worth, I reload my 40's on a 650. Use a EGW U die in station 2 and have no problems with "Glock brass"

this is an old thread I dug up with a search.

I've found several folks using the same set up. IIRC the 650 has 5 stations, while the 550 has 4. Is station 2 the same powder feed station as on the 550 or is it an extra (unused) one?

Thx.

[dvc4you]

I use the regular dillon die in the 1st station of my 1050 and the EGW U die in the second one, load them until they crack, but I usually loose them before that happens.

I chamber check every "match" round, at that point I check for primers and cracks.

I load long, 1.205 and shoot out of an SVI.