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Is there a rule that prevents using a standard X3 with a nordic tube? Say the standard ventrib barrel with a tube in limited? Lee Not at all.....I used the 26" barrel in two matches before I had it cut down.

Tony...you didn't nearly miss as fun of a match as a fun lunch after. When I left....my cheeks and stomach hurt from laughing the whole time.

Without a doubt....Happy Birthday to a great friend and mentor. If I would have known.....I would have bought you a second Texas Fishbowl on Sunday.

Gorgeous Pup Cy! Right now she almost is a spitting image of my Weimeraner.

Yeah.....what do you mean? 3's and 1's and 2's? As for the PacNor blank......very true,but Noveske has a strict set of specs that PacNor does for his barrels and his only. It is not a standard PacNor blank.

What diod you use to cut the hammer(which tool in the mill)? Any problems or tricks to doing it? I was gonna try it with an 1/8" end mill.

I like my Noveske barrels. I have been shooting an 18" rifle gas barrel for the last two seasons. Just got my new 17" rifle gas barrel. There are alot of good barrels out there. I've used many mentioned. I've just found the Noveske to produce the best accuracy over a wider variety of loads and be the most durable in longevity. Meaning it takes a beating and does not lose its accuracy. Many of the other barrels I have used lost accuracy in half the rounds my Noveske has seen. And I have seen no degradation in its accuracy yet.

Ed has some nice mods done to his SLP. His smith does a good workover on them. His has not failed since I have shot with him the last few big matches. I now run the Winchester SX3 which is basically the same as the SLP with some different styling. See my thread below for the pics. Way more costly than the SLP too. The SLP has to be the best deal in practical shotguns right now. The Blue Ridge match was the last time I shot my Benelli before I sold it. It was a great gun and I have absolutely nothing against them. It was just time for a change for me. I recently just put an FN 26" vent rib barrel on my SLP and boy did it make it balance better. It is now 10 ounces lighter too. I much prefer the vent rib barrel but that is all personal preference. The vent rib was the big reason I went with the SX3. Oh yeah......Ed......you were supposed to autograph my shotty since you're famous now. You forgot. Wassup wit dat?

The FN does not need much aftermarket support. Its GTG right out of the box. Maybe an extended bolt handle by Nordic. And maybe an extended bolt release. Some mill work or dremel action to the load port. Maybe weld the lifter. But it is pretty damn competitive right out of the box. And I am an Ex Benelli guy. I now recommend the SLP to anyone getting started in 3 gun. The SLP is as solid of a shotgun as the Benelli.

I think the bridge should be the target stand for the multiple targets to be shot with the MiniGun from the mock helo door. That way.....everybody can get a piece of it. Its a win win......the bridge dies and everybody gets to shoot a minigun

I am using a Lightning Strike Ti strker. I really like the way the Ti striker makes the trigger feel. The Wolf reduced power striker spring makes for a much lighter trigger at the expense of reliability. The spring rates are not consistent from Wolf nor is their durability. Some Wolf springs seem to last longer and some fail pretty quick.Some feel strong and some much weaker. I have seen them last 50 rounds and some 15k rounds. I quit using them in the middle of the 2007 Nationals. I had a striker spring go tits up in the middle of a stage and put a new spring in. It lasted 2 more stages and started giving light strikes. At that point I put the factory spring in and have not changed since. As a matter of fact....I'm still running that same striker spring. But to answer the original question.....yes,a reduced weight striker will give more reliable ignition with a reduced power striker spring. I prefer the Ti strkers by Lightning Strike. They also make a lightened steel strker. But to me.....its a noticable difference in feel of the trigger and I prefer the Ti. I have not broken a Ti strker but I have worn them out. I have also worn out a lightened steel. Lightning Strike advertises the life of their Ti strikers at about 15k rounds. Mine has gone close to 50k.

I've tried them all.....I have not yet shot anything that is as good as Solo 1000......especially with lead or Moly. WSF also works well with lead and moly.

Maybe something in a dark house with some NVGs? The Mk 19 would be freaking suhweet. Of course a minigun is always BA.

I just ordered FerFals book "Survival in an Economic Collapse" off of LuLu.com FerFal is Fernando Aguirre I've heard it is a good read and its all true. It is about the SocioEconomic collapse that took place in Argentina in 2001.

Just got a reply to me last email from JA: Once Glock issued it as a new model, even if it is using older generation numbers, it must qualify, they are only offering it on the 17 and 22. Update, both the models above in RTF are now on the approved list, so its legal for you to use yours. It wasn't as thorough in response to the particular questions I asked but it is now approved so it does not much matter anymore.

I pulled the gun down again last night to rework some things and measure the hammer hooks. The hooks on the EGW hammer were .020" I was too scared to cut them all the way to .012 the first time so I cut them to .016" I polished every contact surface and reassembled. Definitely much smoother feeling and break dropped to a touch over 2.25#. I'm prettty happy with the feel and reset right now. I'm pretty sure if I cut the hammer hooks a bit lower it will drop another quarter off the break but I think I like it where it is. Thank you guys for the help,it was much appreciated. A good trigger really makes the Witness an awesome platform.

I posted this a few threads down. SX3 thread And this is a page back. Other SX3 thread

Benelli barrels are chromelined so that pretty much rules out doing anything to them. It would be more cost effective to just get the M2 barrel. Most shotgun barrels are not chromelined so its pretty easy to do. Chrome lining requires very expensive tools to cut through it and then the remaining chrome will start flaking off unless rechromed.

Thanks Leo. I have prepped the sear and hammer both to a mirror shine with an arkansas stone. I filed the trip leg back on the sear to shorten the reset and also added a light relief angle to the sear to get it to break a bit sooner without so much creep. I did not change the primary angle.....only stoned it to remove any imperfections. I filed the tab to clear the safety. I did not cut the hammer hooks any. I did tweak the sear spring some to lighten it. I'm at about 2.75# with a good short positive reset. I had to add in some more overtravel so the sear would not bump the hammer hooks upon release or it would be much shorter. Am I on the right track? Could you maybe PM me what you do. I'm not an amateur when it comes to trigger jobs on most guns. This is just my first ever experience with a Witness. Thanks!

Any chance you would ever do a tutorial on how to do a trigger job or any of the tricks associated with doing so? I've got the EGW sear and hammer and prefer to do stuff myself. Any help is appreciated.

It swapped out enough to be able to try and tell if they really worked as advertised or not. To me.....it felt as if the barrel was the difference. Slightly different feel,but more noticable when running multiple targets. I used 4 US Poppers to index on and could read the sights slighlty better from shot to shot with the M2 barrel than the M1. When just shooting the 2 barrels into the berm it was a bit harder to tell the difference in feel,but I could tell.

I prefer the LT135 for 3 gun. If it were fro a precsion rifle to shoot past 500 I would opt for the 104. I have no problems with my zero or ballistics with the LT135. Some folks prefer the 104. For 3 gun its more a preference of body stature and how you mount the rifle. I mount the rifle very inboard of the clavicle instead of in the pocket of the shoulder like most people and the higher mount lends to a faster sight picture for me. The 104 requires me to lay in behind the scope. But some folks are different in body structure and neck height. Its a matter of preference. It was desinged for a scope to clear the AN-PEQ infrared designator on a DMR or SPR type AR rifle platform for the military.

Recoil reduction in the M2 is due more in part to the overbored/backbored barrel with lengthened forcing cones than the comfort tech stock. I have put a comfort tech on my M1 and could not tell any difference. I could in turn tell a difference with the M2 barrel on my M1. And the Limbsaver pad is worth its weight in gold.

I have the Winchester SX3(basically same as SLP just lighter with a vent rib) I like the Remington STS Light Target loadsd for birdshot in #8 or 9. I also use Winchester AA Super Sport Sporting Clays in #8 or 9 but much snappier than the STS Light Target. I use the Winchester Ranger low recoil slugs and buckshot. Or Federal redeuced recoil buckshot. I shoot buckshot with the IM choke and slugs with the LM for the best pattern.

The M2 is the newer revised version of the M1. It has the new comfort tech stock to help absorb recoil. The trigger guard is now plastic on the M2. It has a slimmer foregrip. The biggest difference is the barrel. The barrel is overbored and backbored with a lengthened forcing cone. It uses the new Crio chokes instead of the Mobile chokes. The M2 shoots a good bit softer. The M4 is a gas operated shotgun. Very nice gun but not very good for our game since it is capacity and barrel hindered. I'd say get an M1 or M2 with a 21" vent rib barrel and then put the Nordic +5 extension tube on it to hold 8(flush with the end of the 21" VR barrel). Get a welded lifter from C-Rums,an extended bolt handle if you prefer,an extended bolt release button,and a good fiber front sight and have a 10/22 sight installed into the rib of the barrel. Or.....send it to Benny. Expect to pay $1000-$1200 for an M2 and anywhere from $600-$1000 for an M1. Those are prices in stock configuration. They still need some add ons to get them game ready. The M2 DOES shoot a bit softer than the M1.