want2race

Easy fix if the sear engagement is too small (sear too low on striker). Remove sear, remove material under the FRONT of the sear. This allows it to raise up higher and engage the striker with more material. Go lightly, a little goes along way. This may not fix YOUR issue, but it's something to consider and look at. FYI, an orange Glock inspection rear plate fits the M&P slide so you can visualize the sear engagment.

Getting closer to the date. I think we have 2 or 3 slots left.

If somebody made a 9# Glock spring I'd run it. I run the Apex comp striker spring, shortened 4 coils (to match the length of the stock spring). No light strikes. It's not like running a MEGA light glock striker spring. I have one of those too and dropped it in just for giggles. WAY lighter than what I'm running now. I'll save the light strikes for the Glock shooters....LOL. With the lighter striker spring the slide has more preload keeping it closed. It never had a problem before, but I was on a quest for light trigger pull weight and more slide tension was an added benefit.

I've been shooting Blazer Brass. Shot an off hand group of 2.5" at 25y with it too. 11# recoil spring.

Think of sponsorship like a job. If you have a desired skill and they have an opening, submit resume. It works very much the same, because it is. At a day job you get compensated for doing xyz for the company. Your level of compensation depends on your skill level, the size of the company and many other variables. Sponsorship (not just shooting, but racing too) has many levels. If you have something the company can utilize to acheive their goals then you are marketable and would be a good candidate.

Glocks have never been comfortable for me to shoot. I have shot, can shoot, and will continue to shoot one as needed but I never look forward to it. Once I tried an M&P I was sold. The more I worked with it, the better it got and the better I was with it. I handed it to a couple guys this weekend to check out the trigger and the thoughts on were quite good. "That's even good for a 1911 trigger..nevermind a plastic gun." It's been worked over pretty well but continues to run no matter how much I tinker with it. I run the large grip insert, but I've thinned down the sides and made the back flat. Indexes like a 1911, even more so than before. I don't even notice the hinged trigger when shooting. Slide sits low on the hand, like a Glock so it's not top heavy (XD, Sig). I've started promoting them so hard, I should be getting paid for it. I just really, really like the M&P's. After messing the borrowed 9Pro for 2 weeks, I bought a compact to carry.

I'm anticipating this class like I do major matches. Super amped up already and I'm teaching not shooting! I will also be at this weekends USPSA match if you want to ask any questions.

..and finding out they sell once fired brass! I was referred to them by my wife. Turns out they are shooting family and sell cleaned, sorted, once fired brass. As long as my bridge (dental) isn't made from brass, they will be getting all my dental business! They don't sell it from the office, but shooting came up and that's when I found out. They Gunbroker it. Pretty cool.

What Benny said. And if you gave it back to the same gunsmith to fit a new barrel you may not have solved the problem.

No. The spring rates are much better. If you want the cheap option, tune the factory sear and just buy the $25 spring kit. Polish the FBS yourself too. I tried the Apex sear, didn't like it. Pulled it back out. I did everything to it that I did the factory sear anyway. Only difference was that it was hardened which made it initially more difficult to work on.

The key to undercutting for the "Hog Knuckle" is to extend it further forward. Most guns I see that are undercut aren't exteneded far enough forward. Worse yet is the double undercut. I do this with the sanding drum and dremel. Once the shape is right, switch to 320g MX wheel (.5" diameter from Brownells). Final finish is with 600g around my finger. Also don't be shy about making it asymetrical. The right side of mine is shaped a little more than the left since it's my right hand that has the "Hog Knuckle" (yes that is THE technical term).

Yep, I had a go at Kydex a while ago as well. Still using them. W2R Kydex

12-15 minutes. .45 or .40 caliber. SDB. I can do 10 minutes but that is really hustling and can actually fling powder out of the case. I prefer to take a little more time on the return stroke. It's ok for me, I don't shoot that much.

We sure are a bashfull bunch aren't we? 2010 ProAm video is in here, as well as IN state and some locals. want2race441

Awesome show. Just watched my DVR last night. The show reminds me of a gun version of Nitro Circus. Maybe it's the opening or the music, but I like it.

Totally stock, Glocks will run. When modified, I've seen them malfunction. That S&W is continually coming out with revised parts is a good thing. Look at how many things have changed on the Glocks too. Spring loaded bearing (different lengths and colors), Extractors (angles have changed and included LCI now), etc. It seems that every once in a while they change something for better durability or function. Same with S&W. I didn't know that the Pro's were having issues, even when stock. Bummer. Maybe it's the "tuning" they get from the factory, or lack of it. At least they're on top of it and have a really good turn around for repairs.

Why lock? I didn't spend any money on my grip. Won it. Might as well fit it. The issue is fitment. Does the grip still crack if PROPERLY fit. The MS housing holes will need to be cleaned up, yep. The grip has to be fit, yep. It's a GUNSMITH fit part, yep. When SV decides to let theirs go for $250 I'll try one. They look nice, but not $500 nice. If my perplexing STI grip fails, I get a new one for free.

If you shoot 1911's better, then look at an M&P. The triggers are (and can be made even) better than Glocks and they are just plain more comfortable (IMO). Cheap too! $50 Rebate if you buy before October. You can be one for the cost of a 2011 frame. SSP, ESP, Production, Limited 10. I've tried the Limited/Open switch top too. Didn't last long before I bought another frame and had two pistols anyway. Just get out there and shoot!

Pour a glass of fine bourbon. Take a sip. Relax. Remove plastic grip and see just how much work it'll take to get the Al grip to go on without much force. Titrate Bourbon flow accordingly. Of course I don't condone working on or with firearms while consuming alcohol. I would never do such a thing. Coat the inside of the grip, where it is to mate with the frame, with a blue or black sharpie. That will show where the material needs to be removed from. Go slow.

"These are not the droids you are looking for."

Pretty easy fix. Not sure what the stock FO rod diameter is. Usually it's .040". Several companies sell one foot lengths of FO rod. I'll cut a 3/4" section. Melt one end slightly (don't over do it), insert into front sight, trim the length so the rod sticks out 1/8", melt that end then use the lighter to mash it into the sight. I hold the FO rod in place with a finger so it doesn't move when I mash the front end.

Was it tight and you fit it, or it was tight as you hammered it on? These are a gunsmith fit, or skilled tinkerer at least.

I had the same issue even with an M&P mag. Just dirty. Riding the slide stop on a 1911 is pretty tough, it's pretty far forward, likely not the issue. Make sure your slide stop and barrel are lubed. Put a "swipe" of oil on the back side of the slide stop lever where the plunger hits it. The plunger tip is a bearing surface and needs a touch of oil. Most likely the mags, but there are other things to check too.

For pistol, a Square Deal B will work awesome. I've been loading .40 and .45 for the last 3 years on a SDB. Bought it used, figured out how to set it up and it's been great. I'd love to have a 650, most of us would (if not already owned). For $300 I got everything I needed for two calibers minus components. I like the auto index. When you get to rifle, a single stage press is like $40. Add all the bells and whistles and it's more like $100. Depends on how much rifle ammo you plan to load.

First build? Try 1911forums.com, pistolsmith.com etc. There is great info here as well but trying to build a top notch 2011 as your first build is like building a Ferrari in High School auto shop class. Honestly, if it's a money savings you won't see it. The tools required are as expensive as paying for a gunsmith to do it. If it's personal satisfaction, money no object thing, buy two books before buying any parts. Jerry Kuhnhausen, 1911 shop manual vol 1 and 2. That would be a good place to start. Read both until you know the concepts, reasons and methods to perform all the tasks needed. Then start talking to people about which parts are crap, and which are good. Then there is the personal preference items. I would buy a good used gun, spend some time learning it, modifing it, tuning it, getting used to it, learn what you like and what you don't. Then start a new build. I've found deals on 2011 before, as low as $750 with mags. You won't find that often but anything in the $1250-1400 range will be equal to the cost of parts for you to build it yourself. There is a 9mm Edge on AR15.com right now for $1400. My parts list for a build is that much. Clark ramp is supposed to be stronger, but I've never broken a properly installed Wilson ramped barrel.