practical_man

I wouldn't really call it a problem with the machine, the machine itself is excellent. - I just require my primer depths to be a little more specific due to the nature of the light triggers on my revolvers. And there wasnt an option for me to do so from dillon via the press itself. and when I say that I seat them too deep or too shallow, that is specific to the parameters i'm aiming for depth wise... Any other gun ( factory/stock/whatever) would light them off regardless. Thanks Alec. I guess I have just been lucky so far. I am running my triggers around 6 pounds to get reliable function with federal primers. Never thought about being more consistent with seating depth. I will experiment some with this when I have time and get some new brass. Mostly I use mixed head stamps. It's about time to call Starline...

I too have loaded a boat load of Pb projectiles with standard dies. Properly adjusted there are no ill effects on my 550 press. I do use a Lyman M die when loading lead bullets for RIFLE cartridges. For pistol, standard dies work fine for me with lead bullets

Alec That is a cool idea. I use a 550 so I don't think I have ever experienced the over seating problem. I am thinking about a 650, so is this a problem unique to that machine? Thanks

Lewis lead remover is your friend. Or the cheap version of brass screen wrapped around an old brush. Of necessity I have the Lewis lead remover for 38, 45, and 44. Not all cast bullets are created equal. Lol

You could do a lot worse than to follow this advice as a starting point. Anyone that can clean the Bianchi course of fire is a pretty good source for accurate loads.

231 works fine in 9mm and 45. Universal works fine in 40 and ok in the others. I don't think 231 is too dirty esp at the high end of pressure. Universal is dirty unless you burn at higher end of pressure. Did I mention that I like 231 for minor PF loads?

I like Marine Tex and AcraGlas

Visigoth I have both. I bought the 34 to shoot Bianchi. It does fine for that right up till the 50 yard line where it won't hold the x ring. Great pistol for USPSA. The 17 is fine too. My 34 has Dawson fiber optic sights which help a lot. PM me if you are interested. -John

I do this too. I can just see this combo better, even indoors.

Yes this! I have their 6 and 8 shot versions. They fit Winchester brass best. Starline is a little sloppy in these clips. They are very inexpensive if you can accept a little wobble in bullet fit.

As warren and Tim said, you can do this yourself. The tools will cost less than shipping to a smith. Any local revolver mechanic should have them and charge little for the job. The tools are good to have if you buy many guns at all. Indispensable if you buy used guns. This is an easy job to do. It has always improved accurate of my guns, including autoloaders and rifles.

Alec No doubt it works. Poor word choice on my part. I should have said not quite ideal, rather than a value laden term like "right". Hope I didn't offend. This forum is about sharing technique and experience. There are lots of ways to play our sport and enjoy it. -john

My 2 cents is that is not quite right. I don't chamfer the ejector nearly that much, just break the edge to ease loading. That way I get good extraction even when dirty. The cylinder holes are about the same as mine. I am not good enough to do it with a dremel. If Warren doesn't chamfer for me while he is working on the revo, I use the brownells tool. Like most things I but from brownells they are pricey and worth every single penny. Kuhnhausens books are great too. No substitute for sitting at the knee of a master like ToolGuy ot Shawn Schoomacher, but useful nonetheless.

Pretty much. If I have fouling of copper, lead, or plastic (shotgun wads) I use the routine you describe except with a nylon brush now that I know better. Let the chemicals do the work and nylon brush carries it away. I clean the chamber after every range session. Especially on rim fires.

I don't use 7625 but I had a similar problem with Varget. A little graphite to lube the powder bar and keeping the hopper fairly full cured it.

This!!!I have also had this problem. Could be a number of things from trigger spring to connector-trigger bar interface. Related, I took the stock trigger spring out blof my Glock 34 and replaced it with a NY1 plastic spring. I remove the metal spring from the NY1 assembly and used only the plastic part. I really like the feel of it and get very positive reset. Edited to correct spelling errors. Damned auto correct is a PITA.

Another vote for 231. I love clays in 45ACP and 12 gauge. I have not gotten accuracy and power factor at the same time from Clays in 9mm. I use 4.4 grains of 231 to get 130 PF from both my XD and Glock 34

I am interested on the AMP 39 plugs. I have some hearing loss after almost two decades in combat arms jobs in the US Army. I want to keep the hearing I have left. Uncle Sam doesn't issue decent hearing protection, and certainly not electronic. Several years ago I bought a set of Peltor electronic muffs that fit under the Kevlar helmet. Those are very good, but hot and uncomfortable, and a PITA to take off when you're wearing the helmet. So here's my concern. I have a couple sets of "custom" molded plugs. They just don't stay seated in my ear canal very well. Talking, yawning, shotgun recoil all seem to make them pop loose enough to defeat any meaningful noise attenuation. They are silicone type rubber and that slick surface might be part of the problem. I would like to know more about the Hear Pro material and how well they "grip" the ear canal to stay seated. It's hard to plunk down that much cash for ear pro that might not solve the problem I have. Yes, they are pricey but hearing is priceless. And hearing aids aren't cheap either. Looking forward to your thoughts here or via email. Thanks John

Or you could just get out your hair dryer and bend the kydex a little. Leave the gun in the holster when you do this, for obvious reasons. Kydx is pretty easy to work with. No special tools required for minor modifications to holsters, mag pouches, etc.

I have skateboard tape on the pistol and use ProGrip. ProGrip comes in spray or lotion. It helps with perspiration but also has its own grit as part of the composition. It feels like 800 grit sandpaper, sort of. I've been using it a long time and like it. Works for golf and racket sports too. Rosin bag works too if you don't mind the way it feels on your hands.

I short, yes. These are fabulously accurate. I use them in Bullseye. They hold the x ring in my ball gun at 50 yards.

I have had excellent performance from all zero brand bullets I have used. They are very accurate. Trouble can be finding them. If you have some they are great for matches. Seems a shame to waste them on practice...

I assume plastic stock. If not, the just use linseed oil finish. For plastic, here's what I do to AR 15 hardware. Sand at 220 to rough it up, clean with acetone. Wear gloves to make sure it is really clean. Apply a couple of light base coats with Krylon Plastic paint. Get it at any Mart store. Sand between coats and wipe with alcohol because acetone will take the paint off. Now paint with the color you like. Multiple light coats. Paint will pop off under hard use. At least it does on our work guns. Even Bake on Moly Reisin comes off tho that takes more punishment. The bake on finishes are better but more difficult to apply and touch up. We use Norells bit there are others. In the end I dcided Krylon is good enough for a working gun. It breaks up the black color enuf for Camo and is easy to touch up when needed. I wouldn't do it to a show piece, but I don't have any barbecue guns anyway. Hope his helps.

Seeding iron. Grind tip big and to a square or polygon shape for more texture. Hope this helps.

Another vote for Jet. I have tried SL Vaiant, all Safariland, and Jet. Jet is the best. Wish they offered an N frame model for 44.