practical_man

Mobil 1 synthetic where you need oil. Slide glide lite where you need grease. Synthetic ATF mixed with mineral spirits for cleaning/penetrating oil. Ed's red for really thorough cleaning that can't be handled with simple green. I use the above on my personal firearms. I use CLP on Uncle Sugars because he pays for it. I see little performance difference.

Jon Most of the time a hard rap with a bigger hammer works much better than a smaller hammer. The severe shock will break glue and corrosion loose. You might also try some penetrating oil. -john

Definitely Metalform. My favorite single stack mags.

Yes it is a 5 inch barrel.

Just to clarify; you're using new brass everytime, as opposed to range brass or "once-fired" with that load? Is that a 5" barrel? New brass for big matches. Otherwise, multiple times fires from the bucket.

I have shot several thousand zero 230 FMJ over 4.4 grains of Clays using Starline brass. No signs of excessive pressure. That load runs about 820 FPS out of my Kart barrel. Yes, it is above book. Your results may vary. -john

Sixgun I just started my excursion with 147 grain bullets in the 9mm. I get more consistent results around 135 power factor. I am experimenting with 231 and Universal right now. 231 is the more accurate and softer shooting at minor power factor. A chrono is probably the best reloading tool I ever bought. -John

I like the case lube aerosol. The pump bottle case lube clogs up fairly easily. The dry lube was a disappointment, like most other magic lubes. Went back to Mobil one synthetic for moving parts. -John

Keep the hopper fairly full. I use a similar load and get very consistent results.

Add Warren fiber optic sights and a 3.5 pound connector then shoot the crap out of it. If you want adjustable sights the Dawson Precision rear is pretty nice too.

I have one of those California competition works mooner tools I will give you to get started. I might have some blade tech moon clip holders too. All I ask is that when you upgrade (and you will) just pass them on to someone who will use them to get started. Email me if you need them. I like the Ranch Products moon clips. Inexpnsive and they work well enough. You won't have a heart attack when someone steps on one. My 625 is a 5 inch with ToolGuys fiber optic sights. ThEy are simply perfect in my view. Best money you can spend on a revo after a good action job. PM him on this site Chamfering the charge holes in cylinder is a useful idea. I like the bobbed hamme because it allows lighter double action pull. I like forged hammer and trigger but haven't noticed a bit of difference in performance between forged and mim parts in my guns. But I don't shoot 10s of thousands of rounds per year either.

Interesting. A fiber optic front would be nice.

I recently got one as well. It is awesome. Beats the heck out of all the work around a I have tried. I have some older tool heads set up for calibers I don't often use now I will have to see if it fits them. I might have to modify them to fit the light.

Firearm make would be helpful

Flits on a patch will take forever and probably not do what you want be ause it won't press equally inside the die. I have smoothed out dies with a resized case and polishing compound. Deprime the case and tap it for 1/4-20. Run a screw into the case and chuck it in your drill. Cover the case with polishing compound and slowly run into die at low rpm. Clean out frequently with brake cleaner. Just basic lapping. Nothing special

Not too hard to do this. Unscrew the knurled cap at the top of the primer tube. Pull out the inner primer magazine. Blow out with compressed air. If you want to do more, pull the two cap screws from under the primer feed. Remove the return spring and lift the primer assembly off. Wipe off primer slide bar with some alcohol. I reassemble with a little powdered graphite on the primer seater slide bar. I am surprised you are having trouble with that low round count. It is possible the little plastic part on the end of the inner primer magazine is bent or otherwise damaged. If that part is messed up or improperly seated into the bottom of the assembly it can cause no end of grief. Good luck and I hope this helps some. -John

Mine too. Money well spent and nice folks too. I had no desire to learn how to do that job properly so I sent it to Scott. I am sure I saved both time and money by not doing this one myself. -john

Mine work fine. FLGR type.

Warren is a great gunsmith and human being. All the work he has done for me is top shelf stuff. He has kept me from making some mistakes because I didn't know what I really needed. I wish my budget could keep up with my wish list. His stuff is functional and beautiful.

Toolguy has one of those, great scope for the money. http://ultradotwest.com/ultradot_2008_005.htm I have been very happy with ultradots since 2004. I have a couple of the one inch tubes with 4 MOA dot for bullseye. They are easy to see unless the sun is directly behind you, then they wash out. I have found that to be true with the aimpoint close combat optic on my work rifle too. Back to the ultra dot. My 1 inch ultradots are slide mounted on 45 ACP pistols and have held up well. I just bought a Matchdot 30mm for my open Bianchi revolver. I suspect it will work out fine. I do like the larger dots. They seem to reduce the perception of dot movement. I think I will like the 2,4,6,8 option over time. -John

It can be done. A new front sight won't be all that expensive. Adding adjustable rear sights will add cost, and would drive you toward one of the factory models listed above. However, none of those models have tritium night sights if that's what you want. I have had many revolvers retrofitted with Warren Moore's fiber optic sights. They are excellent indoors and out. Not exactly night sights, but Warrens's design picks up ambient fairly well. He is TOOLGuy on this forum and has a dealer section. His sights can be fitted to a model 10. I suggest you look at good fiber optics (there are many) and tritium before you decide. Tritium does fade out over time. My Heine tritium night sights died after a few years. Not the fault of the sight or maker, just physics. If you find a factory 3 inch K frame, snap it up. I've been looking for an affordable one for many years. -john

I have both. Both are fine for 25 yards sustained and rapid fire conventional pistol. I shoot the 17 a little better than the 34. They are about the same accuracy when shot off sandbags. Neither will hold the 10 ring on the 50 yard slow fire target or reduced scale equivalent. Sticking with the 17 and 2000 more rounds practice ammo will likely yield the best resultsmofmthe choices you offer. A David Sams 1911 or Beretta 92 might be the best money spent on a new pistol for Bullseye under NRA Conventional Pistol Rules. There are other equally good builders, like Shawn Schoomaker at Quantico. Both of these guys built for their respective service teams. If you decide to go that route, make sure younger a guy that builds for Bullseye. -john

Warren, Ifonly I had known. Would have brought you a cake -- or at least a snow cone -john

Yes. Heavier bullets in my handguns tend to group higher than lighter ones, all else being equal

GTO If you are just starting, just shoot in limited the way it is. Save your money for important things like a blue progressive reloader, powder, and primers. Practice will do more for you than gear. Trust me, I have spent way too much money tring to buy points in various shooting sports. The only way I get better is to put in the practice time in live fire and dry fire, then shoot club matches. I know that doesn't scratch your itch for cool guy gear but it will help your shooting improve. Welcome to the shooting sports. The various games make a lifelong adventure in learning. The only thing more expensive is girlfriends Best of luck, -john