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Nice setup Centex. I'm waiting for a few things from Mark at Immortal arms before I mount the commercial rollsizer and decapper. He is working on something. I really do not like how the case feeder post is located on the commerical rollsizer. It is too far to the left and does not give much room to mount the decapper to the right of it. I don't have the time to build a nice base like ltdmster. That would be at least 2 days of fab work for me.

Must be nice having access to CNC machines to make your own. Any chance you're running automated? Ever see the inside of aluminum truck tool box after you leave some boxes in there? Aluminum dust everywhere. A better engineered product would have some type of barrier between steel case feed plunger and aluminum cover.

What software updates do they need? They've been testing this thing for how long? 1-2 year? Probably ported the code from Ammobot to make is less user friendly and less reliable. Or are they waiting for yet to be created sensors to be made in which they'll have to "update" the software. Looks like Dillon really screwed the pooch on this one. Long delays resulting in more market share loss. Looks like the Shot Show "announcement" was really for vaporware.

Anything to save time and reduce the wear and tear on your arm/elbow/shoulder/back is worth it to me. Rollsizer decapper is just another tool to make reloading more enjoyable. Much better than aches and pain and cost of surgery. Depending on your budget and age, your mileage will vary.

Markimm, That is an interesting video. Nice that you have a delrin sheet/barrier so you don't get the aluminum dust/galling from the case feed plunger like others that are made of AL. I guess you could use grease on top of the case feed plunger, but that would just create a huge mess on the bottom of the case. I'm amazed at the stuff you come up with. I'm sure this will now be on my radar when it becomes available.

Anyone try using the DAA case feeder plate with lots of .45 brass? I'm guessing this might not work so well with the added weight using the stock Dillon case feed motor. I don't have any issues feeding my rollsizer with 6 pins with 9mm or .45 using the stock Dillon case feed plate and Immortal arms CFU (case feed motor upgrade).

+ adjustable priming depth AND priming on the down stroke. Priming on the up stroke is not comfortable to me.

Better approach would be for Dillon to properly design and use the right motor to begin with. AC motors have less torque than DC motors. I'm guessing Dillon went with the cheapest option. While DAA has some good stuff, they also have some lemons (hand priming tool).

Very valid points. I'd be very concerned about something catching on fire once you remove the over current protection.. Wonder how long it will take for Dillon to tell DAA to remove the motor modification instructions from the web site. The DAA case feed plate looks good if it works as well as advertised. I hope the plastic material being used is durable as the Dillon one. The red transparent color makes it look really cheap to me. However, I'm concerned about additional friction caused by the channels/grooves being cut into it if using the stock Dillon case feed motor. As it is, the Dillon variable motor is very very weak so you'll want to upgrade to the Immortal Arms motor upgrade if you plan to dump more than a small handful of brass. Immortal Arms case feed motor is very powerful and will let you run 6K+ cases/hr on the commercial Rollsizer using Dillon case feed plates. I'm getting ready to order a second Immortal Arms case feed motor (CFU Pro). This one will have the waterfall detection feature. Should work really well on the Rollsizer and future Rollsizer decapper. https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=440&zenid=qtdbaqtle1lf24dubk9mkeiq90 disclaimer: not affiliated with any vendor and I paid for all my junk.

You can call Steve and order directly from him. Some of Steve's items on uniquetek. Look for "By R&R" in the description. https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1532 https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1562 https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1561 bullet seating stem is very useful if using Dillon seating die for SWC bullets. https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1605

Made by Steve Bathje. Many of his items on on fleabay and Uniquetek. Quality and well made parts. R & R Precision Machining 604 S 9th St, Gunnison, CO 81230 (970) 641-1851 sbathje@yahoo.com

No regrets buying and staying with Dillon RL1050/1100s. Apex 10 has many priming issues and I can't imagine the quality improving after Lyman bought Mark 6.

Some observations/comments on this toolhead. The very first CNC Shooter toolheads for Dillon 1050 was made from aluminum. It did not hold up so they went to steel. Aluminum works fine for Dillon 550/650 toolheads, but does not hold up well for 1050/1100 presses. The center hole can/will get enlarged over time with enough cycles. LNL bushing setup is a liability imho. Why would you want something that is less secure that a threaded toolhead?

I heard they're being re-designed to fix some issues.

I'd pass on the FFB. TNT shell plates are better made.

Correct. Immortal arms is a dealer for TNT shell plates. Immortal Arms uses Ammobots to test TNT shell plates at very fast speeds. That should tell you something about the quality/fit/function of TNT shell plates. Everything they sell is well tested and I've yet to be disappointed with anything I've purchased from them. https://immortobot.com/ disclaimer: Not affiliated with anyone and I've purchased all my stuff.

I'm not sure the motor on the Dillon variable speed case feeder can handle much more than that. I had issues when I dumped a large 24 oz cupful of 9mm brass (around 275 9mm) into my case feeder. It would stop working until I let the motor cool off an and would restart. Probably exceeded the thermal limits. You might want to check and see if the case is bouncing in the funnel as it drops and flipping upside down.

Any chance the shell plate you were using were FF&B? I've not had any issues with Burly TNT #5 shell plate. I plan to run the Burly TNT shell plates on all my Dillons. Much better quality than OEM. I know there are some issues with #1 plate with some small primer .45 ACP brass due to the much thicker and out of spec rims.

I'm using Redding dies and I'm not experiencing any issues with primer pull back. I make sure I round off the sharp 90 degree corners to keep them from piercing the primer. I do agree there is a benefit of running 2 pass. You could always get a "ringer" primer and have issues on the swaging and priming station. This is what I've been thinking about doing after dry tumbling brass using 2 different presses. First pass - size, decap, swage/expand, and prime. Second pass - drop powder, seat and crimp I'm thinking this should result in more consistent powder drops since I'm not having to deal with varying sizing effort which can vary from case to case. This is where I see the value of in having an automated press.

Dillon 1050/1100 shell plates are pretty soft and allows for alot of flexing. I don't know what material they're using, but it is certainly not tool steel like Burly TNT shell plates. Burly TNT shell plate has much tighter pockets so you get very little case wobble as the shell plate is rotating. I wonder if they introduced this new shell plate so it would hold up/work with their automated setup (DillonBot or some other name to be determined at release). https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_40&products_id=309 This shellplate is for loading 9x19/Luger, 38 Super, and many other casings that have the same diameter on a Dillon 1050. It's a direct replacement for Dillon Precision part #12938. We've improved the shellplates by: CNC machining our shellplates from A-2 tool steel. Using custom extractor gauges made to SAAMI cartridge specifications as a "go, no go" gauge for the shellplate pockets. If the casing doesn't fit into the pocket it won't work. Lowering the shellplate pockets. This greatly reduces casing wobble and helps with casing insertion into the shellplate. Hardening and annealing the shellplate while flat. Engraving the shellplate character on the outer edge for easy reference. In the end you have a shellplate that's extremely durable, perfect for high speed loading, and is 100% made right here in the USA. SHIPS FREE

What brand/make of plate? Dillon or aftermarket?

I believe issue you're having is due to crimped primer pockets on the S&B brass. Do you have this issue with other 9mm brass? S&B brass is known for having tight primer pockets. It would be a good idea to run them through a swager.

Nothing special about Dillon dies. Redding competition pro die set is so much better.

try taking some some fine sandpaper or stone and remove the sharp edges on the decapping pin. This will prevent it from getting sucked back in.

No need for loctite. Be sure to use a real tacky grease like Schaeffer 229. This is red grease Dillon uses. https://www.amazon.com/Schaeffer-Manufacturing-Ultra-Supreme-Grease/dp/B08W62DK1X