Buzzdraw

The first thing to toss out the window in developing this thing is any mindset related to USPSA Multi-Gun. It is not relevant to the IDPA mindset; we now have a fresh canvas with some guidelines based on IDPA principles. Now we're ready to work out the rules of this event! Will USPSA-legal long guns fit into this discipline? In many cases they will. Should IDPA be concerned with the cost of guns to enter the activity (and be competitive)? You bet! There needs to be room in some divisions for the shooters to go wild (to a point) with "toys" added to their fire rods. Some folks in the sandbox are using rifles with two optics; one a distance scope with the other a red dot on top for up close; sounds like USPSA, but it's also practical. Shotgun-wise, I would tend to set the 18" pump as the start point and might even suggest a 5 + 1 load capacity. Extension tubes are available to get these up to 7-8 rounds, but not all beginning shooters will have this gadget. Various competition-purpose shotguns, like certain Remington 11-87's and Winchester SX-2's and tricked out Brownings belong in their own division. I hope we do not allow non-practical devices such as tube-type speed loaders for shotguns. Maybe the shotgun must have a sling. Would optics be allowed on scatter guns? Depends on the division. Again, let's keep the cost down to start in Stock Pump. Another mindset we should consider is how many rounds fired are necessary. I'd rather shoot more stages with fewer rounds than just a couple stages, firing enough rounds to re-enact some 3rd world revolution. No reason to have to take a trunk load of ammo to have a quality match, In my opinion. There are the legal problems faced with individuals living in states like CA, HI, NJ, NY and so forth. Should IDPA have its rules limited by the worst-case situation in these states or should it allow rules that fit the laws in the majority of states? I'd think that it needs to look after the mainstream. If there is a competition in State X, which limits long guns to 10 rounds, then the clubs operating in that state have to comply. I for one don't want to be forced to buy a bunch of odd-ball (for me) magazines with limited practical use. Regarding national events in 3-Gun, some states/localities may be excluded from potential site consideration because of particularly onerous laws.

Our local club, were we've shot IDPA for 10 years and IPSC for over 25 years, wanted to do a monthly defensive practical rifle event. Shotgun can follow later we decided. A few months back, we created rifle rules and launched. It has been wildly successful. Mind you this is a rifle-only event, but with much of the mind set and rules carried over from IDPA. Our COF rules limit maximum yardage to 50, with 50% shots at 25 yds or less. Lots of partial targets or head box only shots are presented to require accuracy. Max distance for head box only target is 25 yards. Max 1 NS per 2 shoot targets. Max rounds per stage is 30, with max movement 10 yds between points (25 yd cap per stage). All rifles must be equipped with slings. Bipods or any other added piece of equipment on rifle are permitted, but they must remain on the rifle during all stages. Mag pouches must be practical and have a securing flap over the mags. We do not permit ammo to be carried on rifles. Our general mindset is to keep the rifle and equipment practical. We've decided to not waiver in our resolve to stay practical. It should not take a $2,000 rifle to be competitive. The COF tend to take care of heavy-weight rifles or those with high-powered scopes. Our maximum 50 yard or less stages allow our stages to fit on ordinary pistol bays, as well as to provide a quick shooter cycle time, so the match doesn't take all year to complete while also allowing them to shoot a bunch of different stages. The shooters like this challenge. Divisions Stock: Any rifle of any centerfire rifle caliber having “iron” sights and no modifications. Limited: Any rifle of any centerfire rifle caliber having one (1) “Red Dot” or similar non-magnifying optics Open: Any rifle of any centerfire rifle caliber having any optical magnifying sighting device or any other accessories Patrol Carbine: Any rifle having a caliber generally associated with pistols Curio and Relic: Any rifle of any centerfire rifle caliber on the ATF Curio and Relic List We decided to totally ban the use of steel targets as a safety consideration. For this event, we use only wooden target stands. Rifle racks are provided on all stages. Our COF often start with the first magazine light loaded, to force reloads during the stage, usually at an inconvenient point. About 18 rounds lets the shooter fire plenty of rounds per a stage and lets them have more ammo to shoot several stages during the day's match. Our COF try to test skills such as reloading (emergency and Tac/RWR), shooting while moving, use of cover, shooting from kneeling, malfunction clearing, We use IDPA cardboard targets, Vickers scoring and IDPA "points down" scoring. For our Classifier, we have somewhat modified the Marine's MEU-SOC qualifier to include our score break points for MA, EX, SS, MM. It seems to work just fine to sort shooters into ability categories. We feel we've found the right mix of practicality.

Our local Glock sight installer guy has installed many sets of replacement sights, adjustable and fixed, of many different makers. One of his questions to the gun's user is "are you right or left handed"? He tweaks a slight fudge factor for this and the guns normally are dead on for windage. Don't know exactly why it works, but it does.

IDPA Rulebook Pg. 40, 2.Cleats Cleated shoes designed for specific sports (i.e., football, baseball, golf, etc.) may not be worn. I do not consider footwear for trail running, hiking, hunting and the like to be "cleats" within the above rule. Footwear listed within the sports are not suitable for all day wear; they are suitable to wear only on the field of competition. Those examples I list are suitable to wear to go shoot a match, then go eat a burger and finally go to the shopping mall. I've done that in my trail running shoes more than once. Bet I would not do that in golf or football shoes.

If your rifling is burned out forward of the chamber, to the point its pretty much non-existent for 1/2 inch or more, then maybe you need a new barrel. If the accuracy goes to heck, then maybe you need a new barrel. Regular cleaning, using good practices, will extend the life of any barrel or the whole gun for that matter. Rifling will first start to go at the 12 o'clock position in the leade. A given barrel should last longer with lead vs. jacketed bullets. Another trick is to go to slightly larger diameter bullets, if they are available. For worn .355 barrels, you can go to .356 bullets. A pistol barrel may last 150,000 rounds with mild loads and good cleaning. It may go in a few thousand rounds of high-velocity "screamers". In short, it depends.

Have you pulled spring and two pins out for good cleaning of them, as well as inside of plunger tube? If you have to stretch spring to get it to work, then it's fried and must be replaced.

Here's another way to handle the issue. Divide the first day shooters into two groups. The AM guys will likely be local guys or other who prefer to shoot AM's. The PM guys may well be out-of-towners, who either got in late the evening before or drove in that morning. Run the AM guys through 6-8 stages and send them on back to hotel, sight-see or whatever after they eat lunch. Run the PM guys (the other half the shooters) starting about 1 PM through same # of stages. Yes, there will be a lunch break time for staff to eat in a civilized fashion; all shooters socialize togather over the food tables. The shooters aren't waiting around or otherwise getting tired and grouchy. Day #2 everyone shoots AM. It works well.

Weather Bureau in Tulsa can't add. Go here and see if math adds for you: http://www.srh.noaa.gov/data/obhistory/KTUL.html Actually about 4" in last 24 hours. Still plenty wet.

Out of my stock-barreled G34, I get 121 PF with 3.1 TiteGroup @ 90 degrees with Berry's 147 gr plated bullet and Federal small pistol primers. Always assume variations in powder lots and guns, so must chrono to be sure.

The Metalform forward ramp 9mm mags are 9 round capacity, have a welded base and are drilled for screw-on mag bump pads. With just a little deburr effort, you have absolutely the finest, most dependable 9mm 1911 magazine bar-none. For most IDPA COF, you WANT their 9 round capacity vs other makers 10 rounders (9mm or .38 Super). You may expend a little effort at first getting them ready to run, but once you're there, you will be ecstatic. 9mm can be just as accurate and dependable as a .38 Super. Brass cost of 9mm over .38 Super represents a huge savings.

ISMI uses chrome silicon wire; Wolff uses music wire. Chrome silicon is by far the more superior material. There are different qualities of chrome silicon. The right wire must be chosen for the application, then properly shaped and stress relieved. Just the name "chrome silicon" doesn't guarantee a superior product, but it's a good start. Lacking a spring tester, anther method is to keep a new uninstalled spring on hand, identical to the one you put in service in your gun. When the spring in your gun has shrunk 2 full coils or more, as evidenced by comparison with your specimen, it's time to replace it. If the spring in use dies really quick, like 50 rounds, I'd suggest you try a different brand.

Making quality springs is both art and science. The recoil spring in a semi-auto takes a lot of beating. The material must be correct, the method correct and the stress relief correct. A spring stressed past its design limits dies quickly. When checking for spring rate, be sure do it within the gun's operating spec's for valid results.

Open your IDPA rulebook up to page 35. The Not Legal holster is a Uncle Mike's belt holster in its factory-stock configuration. Some male shooters were running their belts through the additional belt slot holes present on the backpiece, thus getting an offset effect (see letter I on pg 34). Offset holsters are legal for ladies only. The holster also failed on the K. Seeing daylight requirement and on J. Gap. It passed the other requirements.

When you pick up a semi-auto I check for fit in this sequence. 1) Put center of backstrap in center of V between strong hand thumb and index finger; get as high up on the grip as you can. Make certain that the axis of the barrel is in line with the two major bones of the forearm. 2) Wrap fingers around front grip, well up under the trigger guard. You must have at least the middle of the 2nd finger inside pad fully against the front of the grip. If your joint between 2nd & 3rd finger bone is touching the inside of the arc of the grip that's important. 3) Check to see that the center of the trigger finger pad will fit comfortably on the center of the trigger. It's okay if you can get the joint between 1st and 2nd finger bones on the trigger. If you cannot operate the trigger comfortably, from the gun's standard ready condition, then the gun does not fit. For a 1911, you can choose from a selection of trigger lengths and mainspring housings. For a SIG, you can get a short trigger from factory for many models. For most other semi-autos, you're stuck, unless you have one with removable grip panels that you can trade out for thinner/thicker versions. Some semi-autos of recent vintage have replaceable backstrap sections, which can help grip fit. You can do grip reductions on some semi-autos, but that will have an effect on which competition divisons the gun remains legality. A revolver requires the same grip, except that the stocks (grips) can be very readily changed on most models. The other elements of fit still apply. You cannot do a short trigger on a revolver. There are various widths of triggers for some models, as well as choices of smooth or serrated trigger face.

Jim's fix is for a different situation than I'm referring to. I've seen problems in functioning in 1911's caused by a titanium f.p. too and also recommend a good steel one. I'm pointing out a circumstance of a truly overlarge firing pin hole. At times during the machining of a slide, the tool cutting the pin hole will wobble causing a grossly oversize pin hole. A standard dimension pin, even one on the big end of the size range won't fix this problem. The big gap between the firing pin and its hole in the breech face will cut "donuts" out of pretty much every primer fired. It's not common, but I've seen it in several slides. Often a firing pin bushing (available from Clark), pressed into the breechface, fixes the problem. If the pin hole is really crooked, then the slide may be fried.

I do think that the RO has a significant responsibility to the gallery to protect them from injury. The RO is probably the only individual who can can take affirmative action during the course of a 180 break. I'd rather risk bumping a shooter than being too far out of position to provide safety for the shooter and gallery. It's very rare that I do bump a shooter and I do stay out of their way to negotiate the course. Keeping out of their peripheral vision is part of the key to not impede the shooter. A few months ago, I got out of position whilst RO'ing a new shooter who got past the 180, way past. The arm above the elbow was not accessible, only the gun or the forearm. I chose to control only by voice, due to the risk the gun might discharge. An attempt to go for the gun or the forearm might well have caused an AD in this circumstance and the gallery could have been at risk. Every circumstance is different, as I've learned from 28 years of RO'ing in IPSC/USPSA. If I'd been in position, I could have handled the shooter differently.

I used to run .377 until a round in a thin wall case telescoped into the case upon feeding. The resulting high pressure fried my 1911 extractor. Since then I've run .375 to account for the occasional thin case you'll have in mixed fired brass. Accuracy is not damaged in the least and it takes a little less powder to make PF. Most important, the risk of gun (and me) damage is gone.

There are tell-tale signs that a shooter is about to break the 180; experience will tell you what to look for (much of time). As a RO, you must be constantly alert to the gun's movement as well it's next likely movement. Listen to your instincts and be ready for an errant muzzle. Prevention of a problem is best. As far as physically controlling a shooter, your open hand on his upper arm (above the elbow) gives great leverage to preventing further backward motion. Note "open" in sentence. If you grab for their forearm or gun hand, the chance the shooter will reflexively contract muscles (and fire the gun) is considerably greater, especially if you tighten your grip on said appendage. Physical control is only a backup means, if your voice controls are ineffective. IMO, physical control (I strongly prefer controlling the upper arm) should be used only if someone is about to be endangered by the sweeping muzzle. If no once is about to be endangered, then contact with shooter is to be avoided (but be ready to do so if errant motion continues). It becomes a crap-shoot of whether to go for gun/forearm or not, if that is all that is available to control. There is a risk contracting muscles will reflexively fire gun. I have used an open hand to push a forearm away when the gun was headed towards the gallery and voice wasn't working. Note "open" hand and "push". The upper arm control method is useful for the new shooter "gun at toes" arm dangle at end of stage scenario. When the shooter doesn't holster, but instead lets gun arm straighten out towards the ground he's about to dangle. He may also follow with the fore/aft arm swing. Be alert to watch for this syndrome with new shooters. There is a reason I always keep the electronic timer in my hand opposite the shooter's gun hand; the above paragraphs are it.

I prefer the "front ramps" too; they will have to be tuned and deburred perfectly. The mags are a big part to getting the gun to run. The 9mm in 1911 platforms can be finicky to get ammo just right. Once you get it right, the gun will be ultra dependable and probably more accurate than a stock Glock. When test firing the SA, be certain to look for primer debris. I've run into a few of these with oversize firing pin holes (not just SA). Primers will appear cratered on just about every round fired, even if load is well under max pressure. This is a serious safety issue if it exists. If you end up with small chunks of primer brass scattered on top of frame by the disconnect as well as in breech area, then you better carefully measure the firing pin hole.

Locally we hold the LE gear rules by the book, whether for a monthly match or for a sanctioned major. Cuffs, mace, baton, etc will be on the belt. If that officer normally carries it, then it should be present. Gear mentioned is not likely to be damaged at the match. Most officers don't have a spare radio (or don't have their own) so we don't push this one item. Several of our local LE's do compete and are serious competitors, both on duty as well as on the match stage. IMO "Top Cop" at a sanctioned match should compete in full duty gear. No rule currently requires it; just my opinion.

I have seen Colt Mk IV finger bushings break. They tend to break if the front of slide is off-spec (out-of-square). If a given slide breaks one Mk IV bushing, it will probably break several. On one gun, it would snap a finger every 3-5 thousand rounds. The fix was to go to a solid bushing. A full length guide rod limits the travel of a recoil spring. A recoil spring that is a little long,restrained in travel by a full length guide rod, will snap the bottom "feet" off a barrel bushing. The same spring will not be a problem in the same gun, with the stock GI/Colt short guide rod. Many 1911's will not make IDPA weight limit for CDP division with both a full length guide rod and a steel magwell.

Hard Chrome will most likely show the weld. The chrome surface will take on the prepped material finish below it. If you want a mirror finish on the side of a slide, the slide must be skillfully polished. If you want it matte, then the metal below needs to be matte. Due to the light color of hard chrome, it shows every minor imperfection from a poor prep job. Choose your prepper and chromer carefully.

If you want your comp to work as best possible, run the lightest bullet in .45 ACP you can find. A 155 gr lead SWC with 7.2 gr. Winchester Super Field made USPSA Major in in 5" gun. Load was accurate, as well as soft shooting. Load is also in the 2006 Winchester load manual, so they think it's safe (@7.4 gr with a 180 gr). I ran it for a number of years in an supported Kart barrel with no issues. Used Winchester Large Pistol primers.

START with the finish you intend to run. Take it from someone who's dealt a number of customer's guns (both initial build-ups as well as refurbish) through a high-end custom gun shop. The finish you want the manufacturer/pistolmith to apply should be specified when you order the new gun. Different finishes go in in different thicknesses; that is taken into account during the buildup. Boron Carbide goes on just microns thick. Hard Chrome goes on a few ten-thousandths thick. On a custom, close tolerance pistol it DOES make a difference. I've found that when the finish (hard chrome, etc) is the initial one applied that the gun does stay tighter much longer. To prepare a gun for any of these finishes it has to be carefully abrasive blasted. It's best if your custom manufacturer/pistolsmith does this to his/your gun before sending it to the finisher. At that point all the finisher must do is degrease (rust prevention in transit), fixture up and apply finish. Then the pistol is sent back for careful reassembly. Preparation for finish and reassembly are an art best left to those who do it well. I've seen many a pistol ruined by improper work of those unskilled. A used gun will benefit from proper hard chrome, since it can be applied in sufficient thickness to build back some tolerances lost. Boron carbide will not fit this bill. Hard Chrome guns will rust under extreme conditions. The area down in the checkering of the mainspring housing is particularly vulnerable to rust. Electroless nickel is actually more rust resistant, but is softer (Rc low 50's). Hard chrome (Rc 73) is long wearing. A diamond file is necessary to cut it. Boron Carbide (Rc low 90's) likewise is long wearing and is a nearly black color, often confused with ordinary blue by those who don't know. Some think it will chip off impact surfaces such as hammers. My personal guns are done in both Hard Chrome and Boron Carbide. Both finishes are very satisfactory. Both will exhibit little wear on slide or Kydex holster contact surfaces after tens of thousands of rounds downrange. These finishes are definitely worth the bucks.

Normally pistol barrels wear out first at the 12 o'clock position, just forward of the leade. Get it really clean and check with a bright light. If you have a newer Glock barrel, try slugging it (as a control) and your older Glock with lead bullets. Carefully mike, down to .0001 (if you have a precision mike). You can also try some .38 Super bullets (.356) to see if accuracy returns. Caution: drop powder charge a little with Super bullets, as not to over pressure.