billfer

I noticed the same thing Rons talking about while practicing Smoke and Hope the other day. I could shoot it all day long (.22 from low draw) with times like 2.28 . Once I decided to "go for it" my times were 2.11 to 2.17 . If I pulled all the stops I recorded 1.96 and 1.99 but both runs had a miss so the score was not recorded in my diary. With practice I should be able to improve the times without missing.

Kurt is a local company (Minneapolis) that sell products used on Bridgeports. We put them on the mills here at work and they run flawlessly. We use their vices to and I believe mine opens to 7 inches or so. Anyway they make some good stuff that has held up great on our toolroom equipment. http://www.kurtworkholding.com/powerlock-power-drawbars-c-36-l-en.html

If you install a power draw bar then you can skip painting the wrench It's like most things, once you have one you'll never know how you got along without it. Bill

Nice. All that's left is a little painting. I recently had a few plates made from AR400. It took 4 cans of rustolum to get them looking good.

You won't find a more dependable ride than the KLR. There is a ton of aftermarket products available to modify them any way you like. The KLR is a bit heavy for off road on anything more than dirt roads or fire roads. I up graded mine with a set of progressive front springs and that helped a bunch for a soft front end. I also did a headlight upgrade and a rear rack upgrade. I also ran tires that were more road worthy than dirt because most of my riding was on the road. They worked fine for the little bit of off road riding I did.

It's a new twelve station manifold for a progressive seal-a meal.

I went with the 3/8 guide rod in my XDm which is set up for limited. If you plan to shoot yours in production the 3/8 might put you over the + 2 oz weight limit. If that is not a concern just go with the 3/8 and use the stock spring.

cas41, I'll be interested in seeing what you come up with. I never added a reset to my plate rack but would like to some day. During the walk down range to reset I'll load mags and contemplate the previous run. Works for now.

I use an arms straight start when practicing 10y plate rack shooting. The technique I use includes having my sights alinged on a marker half-way between me and the rack. Next I shift my eyes and head to the first target and at the start I snap the gun up into my vision (focal plane) onto the first target. Movement happens at the shoulders, nothing else . At this point two things need to happen. First, I must slow the snappng of the gun soon enough so I don't over-shoot the target (shot breaks high). Secondly, the sights need to be in alignment on the target (no change in grip pressure ect). I've tried arms bent and for me it was a struggle to keep the gun straight enought that I wasn't fishing for the front sight at the end of the push.

this might help http://www.wiztechs.com/knightsrealm/guns/...nstructions.htm this site has pictures detailing dissasembly

Were you bench-rested or shooting off hand.

Scott at Pistolgear should be able to answer your questions. Just send him an E-mail and he usually gets back to you quickly. You don't say what gun you're talking about but I assume it an XD. Careful on how light of a recoil spring you go to or reliability may suffer.

It might be a ball plug as listed on the bottom of the page on this site. Drill a hole the proper size and insert the ball plug. Applying force to the ball seals off the hole. We use them around work for plugging holes. http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-plugs/=4k0g9b Bill Ferrozzo

Whenever you want to impress someone here at work just tell them you'll apply "metrics" to any given problem. "Yes, I believe we could apply metrics to that and find the root cause..........." blah blah blah I here that so much around here I could puke. OK, I'll shut up now. Wait that's another one! Just shut up, you don't have to tell me you'll shut up.....for cryin out loud

"..........., you know what I mean" No, maybe if you explain yourself more clearly cause I don't quite get what you mean............ you know what I mean.

I agree that most people won't give you a second look once they understand what you're doing. Around my place people mostly just mine their own business and leave me alone. One thing I do, however, before I get started with a dry fire practice is put a paster over the buzzer on my timer. It muffles the sound well enough so I don't draw a lot of attention. I've also been live fire practicing out behind my place for years now and using a little common sense as to when I shoot and how long I shoot I've not gotten any complaints so far. Bill F.

I've been doing more plate rack practice (with my Smith 22A this time) and scored a new personal best. Practice was from 10 yards shooting at 8 inch plates. I did change things up a bit from previous runs by using the description for "low draw" from the Steel Challange site as opposed to just pointing the muzzle 3 feet in front of me. There will be a flag centered downrange on the ground, approximately 12’ from the shooter’s box. The competitor must wait for the command to fire while pointing/aiming their gun at the flag. Total time: 2.13 plate 1. .69 2. .36 3. .30 4. .29 5. .23 6. .26 I had several other runs between 2.37 and 2.56. I was using Blaser ammo and it seemed to agree with the Smith....... as long as I keep it clean.

Last week I was hunting in Montana and one of our dogs was bit by a prairie rattlesnake. The dog lived but it took 3 days at the clinic and tons of IV's to get her through it. The snake didn't do quite as well

I've been doing some plate rack practice with my Ruger 22/45. I don't have a holster so my practice is from low draw. My best run to date from 10 yards: Date May 15 2009 Time 2.40 plate 1=.92 plate 2=.32 plate 3=.30 plate 4=.29 plate 5=.30 plate 6=.27 Good cheap fun.

Nice mill. The DRO your installing should make that thing rock. I can't believe you were able to get that into the basement, those castings look like they weigh a ton! In one of the pictures I noticed a blue looking, I'm going to guess, boiler with vent openings at the top. You might want to guard it from chips that might fly that direction. Nice set up.

Put one of these slide rackers on your Ruger too.......you'll love it. I made one for myself but I guess Brownell sells something similar. Very nice looking gun you have there. Love the grips you have on it.

I use Dykem in aerosol spray can form. You just have to be a little careful of the overspray.

I got my parts back and as it turns out I had them hardcoated instead of anodized. I had a bunch of stuff going out for hardcoat and threw mine into the pile. The finish is more of an olive drab color and that works out fine for this job. I will say that the surface on these parts is HARD. In fact the tools I used to do the last couple cuts didn't like it to well. So I post a couple pictures with it mounted on my trusty Ruger just to see what you guys think. The picture quality is not too good but you get the idea. Billfer

I am fortunate that the the company I work for allows me to use their equipment for doing some of my home projects on my own time. It would be wrong for me to sell anything I make and benefit financially from it. This is just a fun little project I felt like doing and thought I would share its progress with others. Anyways.....long story short....not for sale. Check out some of the other parts I've made on my mini chopper build in the "show us your motorcycles thread". I got a second place award for it at a Donny Smith bike show in 2007. I enjoy doing this kind of work. Slide racker parts will likely be sent out early next week for anodizing. I will post pics after that.

I put one of the slide rack parts on the scale and it weighs in at .298 oz. It will be somewhat lighter after I finish doing couple more cuts on it. Good point on the weight issue joecichlid. Didn't see the one Brownell's has before I started this one but, making my own has been more fun Oh and I just got the VQ a couple days ago and haven't tryed it yet.