Brian1911

Just top follow up on this: I found that at 4.8grns BE powder and a COL of 1.260 got my 21sf to function flawlessly for the past 2k rounds. I found that at even at 4.5 grns BE with a variance throw in powder of .1-.2 I would still get malfunctions. Most happened when a 10 round (CA mag) was topped off and 1 in the pipe during reloads. The pressure on the slide from the full mag would not allow the slide to cycle hard enough to sometimes eject or grab the next round. I think anything lighter then 4.8 would make the gun run right on the edge and if grip wasnt perfect or there was a variance in powder throw it would make the gun choke. Anyway for anyone reloading for this gun and with BE powder 4.8 grns seems to be spot on for function and feel.

I will see what happens with this last email and then call mid week. I also found another site that carries ROZE bullets and will be calling them to see if they have 2 handed people that arent cross eyed in the packing dept, lol.

Well who hasnt heard of Montana Gold but the price is a bit high. It is $30 more per 1k then ROZE which is quite a bit being there is no real difference. Are there other sources that sell MG bullets with better prices then direct?

I have been a long time customer of ROZE Distribution but nearly every order I receive has the box torn and bullets lost. I have emailed about this a few times now and nothing has been done. My last email was a bit more stern and I have about had it. My only resolution is to order 1k at a time to qualify for free shipping but hopefully not have the box get so beat up. I know its USPS shoving a dolley under the flat rate box but its the individual boxes of 500 inside the bust open from being bounced around. I would appreciate some suggestions of places for this type of bullet and one that knows how to package something that weighs nearly 70lbs. Thanks guys

What I have noticed is that if you cycle the press with out brass in the powder station after a few times I think the powder gets condensed and I get heavier throws. In other words when you are setting your powder drop cycle the handle up and down but be sure every time there is brass in that station. If you were setting things like crimp and cycling the handle up and down then went back to check your powder drop it would meter heavier.

You need to rotate the powder drop station one direction or the other to get this to stop. I had to tweak my fail safe rod to get things perfect and smooth and my new 650 is now perfect. I even called Dillon and had them send me a new fail safe rod to try and couldnt get it to be perfect with out tweaking so I do think that is necessary. What I found was that for the fail safe rod to cycle in the bell crank smoothly I had to have the powder station rotated so much that it would touch the primer buzzer housing. With some bending of the rod I now have it about 1/4 inch from touching the primer buzzer housing and I can short cycle the handle and the fail safe rod smoothly moves back and forth in the bell crank slot. The problem I had was it was sticking and not moving fully from one side of the bell crank notch to the other and when I made to necessary adjustments I was back to the powder hopper hitting the primer buzzer. So start lightly tweaking the fail safe rod and find the sweet spot for the powder station to be and that bell crank wont snap any more.

I am doing a USPSA match today and will look for some 4 mag brass but I dont understand what it is you guys are doing to make it fit. Any chance in some pics so I can see?

I wish that guy above would make some more to sell on ebay. I am getting tired of primers all over as well. My 4 yr old thinks its fun to keep saying, "i found another one!".

I know what that load data says but have you shot 5.0 of BE powder? It is pretty darn strong so I think the fact the web site says this is wrong and perhaps its because its not for FMJ but for TMJ. I am not sure if there is a difference but I can tell you 5.0 of BE is darn strong and .7 grains more would scare me. Perhaps I will just leave it at 4.5 grns then now that I have been thinking about this more. I tested several hundred at that charge and all were great with just enough ejection to keep the brass over my shoulder and out of my face. Now as for my malfunctions that did not feed or extract a spent case it is possible those had light charges in them. I was tinkering with the powder settings while loading to get it fine tuned and maybe a few were just shy of 4 grns. I am not real sure but I know I found a couple that were pretty weak which was easy to narrow down to a powder charge issue. I am nearly where I want to be with my press settings so I am happy to finally start cranking out some good ammo. My first batch was clearly out of spec in a few different areas causing these headaches. Now all that is left is to get my powder back up to where I want it. thanks for the info

I go in .2 grain increments because, in my experience, there's so little difference in velocity with .1 grain changes it's really not worth doing. If I do this my slide wont return unless I jiggle my wrist a bit but on larger frame glocks with these heavy slides I read it is not uncommon. This makes me question this test.

I go in .2 grain increments because, in my experience, there's so little difference in velocity with .1 grain changes it's really not worth doing. Not only that but there is a .1 variance in charge from the powder drop anyway. It was just weird for me to be able to feel the slide movement and spring compression at 4.0grns and I didnt like it. It was like I was waiting for the slide to return before taking the next shot, lol. At 4.5 grns the load felt good and was accurate. I was able to dbl tap just fine but it seemed like night and day compared to the 4.0 charge so I figured 4.3 should be just right for me. One other thing to note is that at 4.0grns all the brass was in my face which was no fun. As for the spring test I am thinking it is sort of BS. I put my used springs back in after talking to a very experienced glock shooter. I just ran 300 problem free rounds in it so why change out the spring especially when I have 1500 rounds on it. Being that I use Wolff round coil springs I will just keep tabs on it and change out when I get to 3-5k or if I notice the gun acting different. I hear of people running their springs for 10k+ rounds but that seems nuts to me and I am not really sure what amount of money is being saved when the part is $7. I guess this is one of those mysteries that will always be debated sort of like keeping mags loaded all the time. This is why I love reloading and being able to tune ammo like this. Mostly I like to save the money but I actually enjoy reloading. Problem is that my 650 cranks them out too fast and I get done in a hurry, lol.

Good points guys. As for the spring I love the Wolff set up and dont want to change that. The gun feels great with it especially with the added weight forward in the gun plus no worries of inspecting my guide rod for damage like with the plastic one. For my powder had some other brand been suggested to me from the start I would have used it but this is all I ever used and it works great for me. When I say I will move my charge back to 4.3 this doesnt mean I have never tried it and am skipping ahead too quickly. I have loaded all the way from 4.0 to 5.0 with this bullet type and any where along there was safe with no signs of over pressure. 5.0 was a bit stout and not needed so I ran 4.8 for a while then down to 4.5, 4.2, 4.0 and found what is best. 4.3 seems like it will be spot on for feel and accuracy. For crimp I like the bench test as well but crimp is not what is holding the bullet. The 1st station that resizes slightly under spec is where your bullet tension comes from. I even seated a bullet in the case then skipped crimping it to test this. I put the round in a bullet puller from Dillon and it took 3 solid hits to remove the bullet that had no crimp applied. Inspecting the bullet I found that the good old .469 that most 1911 guys use was too much and leaving a nice mushroom affect in the FMJ body. I discovered this 20k rounds later once I finally bought a bullet puller, lol. Now I found .40 to be the best balance between passing the case gauge and not leaving too much a mark on the FMJ. What I am going to do for my spring is just keep a round count on it and replace once I think it is time or if I find I am having spring related malfunctions. Seems there are many schools of thought on when to replace a spring but since I use Wolff springs I will treat them like my 1911 and change out at 3-5k no matter what. Not so worried about saving a few cents by pushing the limits on getting more use out of a $7 spring.

Well I shot 300+ rounds yesterday and no failures. I must just had a few bad ones in my bag that day because even the 30 or so that didnt pass the gauge fired off fine. My charge this time was too light though so I need to take it back up a bit to about 4.3 and it should be perfect. I was able to feel the slide movement and spring load up because it was so slow. They all cycled but with a stock spring weight it needs more juice. Not only that at the lighter charge all the brass was coming at my face. One other question I have is about my recoil spring. I have the Wolff solid guide rod and Wolff 1911 style round coil spring which is the stock 17lb weight. What I want to know is if it should return the slide to battery with the trigger held to the rear and slide pointed straight up. I read about this as being a test but think it may be BS. Mine never did this even with stock springs and new but with a little shake of the gun it will return however if I ride the slide nice and slow it wont go into battery fully with out some intervention. I notice this most with dummy rounds because if I rack the slide and ride it too much the slide wont go into battery. I have only 1500 rounds on this gun and spring so I figure at 3k I will just change it to be safe but wanted some opinions, thanks.

I am not saying that the rounds which would not feed up the ramp were from a case sizing issue I am thinking I have a few different things going on here. I believe the rounds which would not feed were do to a COL issue and perhaps partly due to a crimp problem. The malfunctions that wouldnt cycle the slide enough to eject a round I think were due to crimp or a resizing problem. I believe those rounds were sticky in the barrel and slowed the slide down enough when trying to be extracted to cause that type of malfunction. My dies are all Dillon on a 650xl. And I did resize the brass and it would gauge just fine so I think some was error on my part in seating the bullet crooked. Beyond that I think I need to fine tune my settings for my glock differently then what worked for my 1911's. I did notice that my COL at 1.265 was fine but a few rounds measured a bit longer and this may cause a different issue. I dropped those into my 1911 barrel and thumb pressed them in then found marks on the bullet so it had to have been hitting the rifling. I think 1.60 COL would keep me away from the max COL enough but these are well away from 1.20 which I would consider the min COL. Brass is all range pick up stuff and lately that has been at my USPSA matches so chances are most reload and who knows how many times that brass got loaded. I used to go to an outdoor range by my home where newbies would shoot 100 rounds of winchester white box and leave so I had all kinds of once fired. Problem is the range shut down and now I may need to start buying brass online. The part of the round that was causing the issue is right at the base of the bullet so it was about mid way on the brass. If I press the round in the gauge you can see the shiny ring around the brass right where it was causing the issue. I am sure this had to be a bullet seating problem that pushed the brass to one side as the bullet was seating. I never had this issue before now so I am thinking its a combination of other things that allowed me to find this mistake. Perhaps all the things I spoke of put together and a new gun make a the perfect recipe for malfunctions. I am going to go to an indoor range today just to try out a small batch of my new rounds and see what happens. My new specs are going to be: COL- 1.260 crimp- .470 charge- 4.0 gns Bullseye

I am using 230 grn FMJ RN. I dropped my charge from 4.2 to 4.0 and will shorten my rounds to 1.255. All SD ammo is much shorter and I am thinking with this glock it may not like longer rounds like my 1911's. I havent really had any issues with it before this last new batch so I am sure it may be something else but still I would like to not be so close to max COL. At least this way when some rounds are a bit longer they will still be ok instead of getting close to 1.27 which seems quite long. Any rounds that come up a bit shorter should still be fine since they wont be much shorter then 1.250 which is still a safe length for pressures.