MoRivera

Hey all, Digging up this ancient thread so as not to redundantly start another while I'm doing research. I have an AR with a 14.5" barrel and mid-length gas system. I'm taking off the carbine tube and putting on an A2 tube and rifle stock. Before, I settled on running an H1 buffer...more specifically an Armaspec captured recoil system that is an H1-equivalent. Now with the longer tube I have gotten an RRA spacer, but I also have a rifle-length buffer, and I have a set of internal buffer weights ranging from aluminum to steel to tungsten. I'd actually like to use the Armaspec for a different build, so I changed internal weights in the rifle buffer and got it down from 5.0 oz. to 3.8 oz which by the 'book' is equivalent to an H1 carbine buffer in weight. Should I expect the newly-weighted rifle buffer to run fine, and close to the H1 setup I had before? Thanks.

6MOA on my C-mores as well.

I use the 'old style'/original 85C in all my SP01 Shadows. I did try one in a Shadow 2 and it fit in fine, but didn't make enough of a difference in trigger reach in single action like it did in SP01's. the break is still very far back even with that trigger. I guess I could also have tried the thick trigger that comes on etc CZ97, but I'd want toads the over travel screw, and I just didn't really bond with Shadow 2 altogether so I sold it.

I have been contemplating a Bull Shadow with RDS for quite a while. Now that USPSA upped the weight limited for production, I might get the SP01 version. For my existing SP01 Shadow, I have two slides...one irons, one milled for optics, and just switch off. Would be considerably more expensive with Bull versions, so I like the idea of the plate/iron sights with the RDS system. Actually, I'd be fine just getting the bull-slide with the RDS, but the pistol's grip frame needs some more room milled out inside the dustcover.

A number of shooters have mentioned this, and I also experience that when I had a TS Blue, which is very similar to the Orange. Thing with the Tactical Sport compared to an SP01 or such, the TS trigger bar is a single bow, so there's also just one spring 'leg' working it....so it's not going to be as hardy of a 'click' as it notches back up on return. Also, I don't know how yours is set up, but I thought I remember someone mentioning they get a little more 'feedback' replacing the stock polymer trigger with an aluminum one. I don' know about stiffer versions of the trigger return spring, maybe that could be worked to have more tension. Don't think you can squeeze two in there because one leg has to go into a small hole. For me it kind of just came with the beast that I had to let up with trigger finger and trust that it reset. Many aluminum triggers have adjustable pre-travel too, not sure about stock polymer.

On AR's a typical lower-1/3 is a height I'm most comfortable with all around. I'm still getting a solid cheek weld and part of it is because I have rather large head, so absolute cowitness height can be a strain, like I'm actually trying to press lower than where my head/cheek are sitting. also use a C-more Railway, which is kind of in between lower-1/3 and cowitness compared to other red dots. But since the actual window is farther down the rail than other red dots, it's ultimately more in line and feels fine. For example when I had a Holosun 510C I had to get the additional riser to be comfortable with the height.

For me this is mainly with 115-gr factory stuff. I've tried some 124 and 147 that's softer, but then in comparison it feels like the bolt and buffer are kind of 'lingering' during the cycle and then the gun wants to lift more, and the overall cycle is slower. I'll take sharper and quicker over softer and slower. That last part sounded weird.

I have mine 'semi-stroked', if you will, so that I still get LRBHO, but it still quickens the cycle and although it may have a bit more jolt to the shoulder, it gets the dot back on target quicker. I had a friend fashion a spacer out of nylon after I measured how many quarters. A Blitzkrieg buffer helps cushion the ends/extremes of buffer travel a bit.

There are a lot of options, including basically any sort of aftermarket hand guard for an AKM. What do you have currently, the Magpul? The Billet rail that comes from PSA is larger overall than many aftermarket rails, but if you get your thumb up on top it will probably block your iron sight picture. If you have an optic with a riser less of an issue. They go out of stock quickly, though. https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-custom-series-ak-billet-aluminum-handguard6.html

Barometric pressure, maybe.

Those look very cool. Any idea on cost?

Faxon have barrels with integrated comps/flash hiders in stock. Just saying, for the cost of the gunsmithing, might as well get a nice light barrel. What's nice about the Faxons are that they are 16" overall and that includes the muzzle devices. https://faxonfirearms.com/faxon-16-tapered-profile-ar15-barrel-9mm-w-integral-slim-flash-hider/ https://faxonfirearms.com/faxon-16-tapered-profile-ar15-barrel-9mm-w-integral-slim-muzzle-brake/ If they had these out when I got an MBX barrel/comp. I probably would have gotten the Faxon instead.

Probably, but why not get a lighter barrel, unless you've already bought it? The cost will probably turn out to be the same or maybe even less.

Or an expansion pin....but may be too small.

I've got the 8" going on both uppers.

Maybe someone should just make pins.

Also, when cycling an unfired round out manually it doesn't seem to really fling it out, the round often just trundles down out the bottom or even stays in there. Ejects fine while firing, at least for me so far. What gets me about this is have we heard of people's Banshee's breaking down like this because technically it's the same system and key parts, right?

The more I read it just seems that the action of the bolt and carrier being pushed back by the round is beating the ejector and spring up, as compared to the carrier being pushed away by an AR's gas and pulling the bolt back. Might be a fundamental flaw in the design approach that's only really become evident through lots of firing. I hope mine holds up because I really like the way it shoots.

I've heard both sides of that, that it will fall out without the sight or it stays in place fine. I'd be just fine with only the pin if it'll work.

Very strange that a newer version is less reliable. Could it be a compatability issue with the barrel lugs?

I've been tempted.

Crap. Would there be any way to take detailed photos of each and post?

Note: Some sights like the Hololsun 403 series (and/or ones with a battery 'tray' on the bottom) sit a bit higher on their low mounts than your typical T1 type. So that gives a bit more clearance over the irons while still being at a comfortable height with cheek weld.

I run it pretty much on the deck if it's a T1-type red dot, so on a base/low mount if it's a reflex/rmr-type. With the AR-style 'buffer' tube and a normal cheek-weld on an SBA3 brace, the receiver and iron sights are pretty much at the ideal height, so I don't need a lower-1/3rd riser like I would on an AR. Unfortunately, I can't remove or flip down the iron sights like with an AR, so they take up some of the sighting window.

Yes...I mainly compete with CZ SP01 shadows, and I sometimes carry the PCR Compact.