MoRivera

I have tried the Hennings and they were very good, but I realized that I'd rather have a constant thickness all the way up there grip rather than a palm swell. So far, these aluminums from M-Arms in Europe have fit me the best (I got the 'thick' ones)...... https://www.m-arms.eu/products/monarch-1-long/ I wish I could get these 'cloned' in G10 or rubber. Although they look rather slab-sided, that angled contour on the backstrap realm sits well in my palm. I got them in short/thick for my SP01/TS hybrid 'Longslide', too.....

I use pretty much the same exact pistol for both SSP/IDPA and Production/USPSA. I have the 'original' 85C trigger with just an over travel adjustment screw (which is its original configuration) and so far my understanding is that it's legal for both.

I did, and I prefer mine that way. Even after trying the CGW reach reduction kit and also getting the SA take-up really short, I just wasn't liking the DA as much as on my regular SP01 Shadow, and the S2's single-acttoin just feels too far back on the rear 'wall' for me. So even though it's still minor caliber, I shoot it in USPSA Limited Minor from time to time but shoot my Shadow 1 in DA/SA for production. Maybe it's the rake of the upper grip as opposed to the smoother more even rear humor of the SP01. Anyway, I still like the Shadow 2 as a SAO.

Thanks much. Started this year doing plates in Bridgeport, Guilford, and Greysons in Orange Then IDPA in B-port, Academi (in Salem), Wolf's, Sprague, Northwestern, and some USPSA in RISE (Pearl Over, NY). Going to Richmond Boro (NY) for USPSA this month as well.

I have the Springer steel guide rod with a 13# 1911 spring, also smooth cycling with no hangups. If I ease the slide down when loading an actual round (dummy round), I can get it to hang up, but a lot of guns will do that. I also ordered a .215" front sight from Dawson (original is around .245"). I am, however, finding that I think I like the original grip profile better than the X one, particularly the backstrap. Only thing is I don't think I can transfer the interior grip weight to the older grips.

I think for the most part it has to do with whatever load you're using, and ideally when your brass ejects it should land around 6 to 8" feet away (at least CZ guys I believe go by this). Less, and your spring is too stiff, farther and your spring is too light (and you risk premature wear by battering your frame/FCU). Wolff Springs recommendation.....

It really should be tight to the hammer however you do it. Otherwise there is a small possibility that it will walk a bit under use/fire which could hang up the hammer.

I did the same recently on a Shadow 1 with a CGW T1 disconnector, but I took the 'wing' approach.

I did on my first IDPA classifier this year as well....shot it like a speed stage which was stupid. Was the first shooter up too, so my adrenaline was up. For crying out loud, the targets were 30 feet away...that's my warmup distance at the range! I should have gotten all zeros (or close) if I didn't try to rush. As it stands I still made Marksman, which is fair since I only started shooting competition a few months prior, but I just barely made it. I know that if I went at what I now know is a comfortable pace, I would have done much better with still a solid time. I think in general I need to plan better.

I've seen/heard of a few....limited run or the like. Essentially an SP01 Compact. https://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=83224.0

I just recently picked up a P320 X5 and out was pretty stiff out of the box, and I was getting hangups just out of battery. Could really feel a grind as the cycling started and the barrel unlocked from the slide. Gave her a clean and a lube, and then let it sit overnight with the action locked back. From just that one night, it would no longer hang up 1/4" out of battery like before, and I couldn't get it to not go fully in. So I figured that just that overnight span with the slide locked back either helped break in the recoil spring, or...with some of the findings in this thread..... ......maybe it helped break in the disconnector lifter spring, which was hanging the slide up from friction. Let it sit another night and it was even better, just as smooth cycling as my P320 Compact (also with safety upgrade/disconnector). Took the X5 to the range today, 300 rds of Remington UMC and Blazer Brass, not a single issue or hangup. All good ejection, no out-of-battery, slide lock every time. Feels just like my P320 compact but less muzzle flip. Felt fine, and glad there were no issues.Only thing is that it prints WAY low. Even with the rear sight cranked up as high as it seems to go, I was getting 2" low at 35-45 feet! Front sight measures around .245" high. I ordered a Dawson .215" hight front sight, should hopefully fix it for me. But anyway, seems the out-of-battery somehow worked itself out before even shooting it. So I guess I'd recommend letting it sit a few nights (after proper cleaning/lubing) with slide locked back if others are getting those issues.

Thanks much. I like that there is such a gear-head/enthusiast level of interest here and a lot of competition discussion.

Reason why I ask this is that I ran across this thread....... And I recently got an X5 and noticed a lot of hangup out of battery as others have also discussed. I wondered if it had to do with the recoil spring so I left my gun with slide locked back overnight, and things had improved a lot, no more hanging or grinding. So naturally I thought that the recoil spring had broken in/set a bit. But then I saw the thread posted above, and it brought up something that makes me think it may be the culprit. One of the spaces for unscrewing the optics cover plate is in path of the disconnector on safety-upgraded models....... .....and that's right around where the disconnector 'head' would be when the slide is about 1/4" out of battery......right where its hangs up when new for a lot of folks. Maybe that's what's causing the hangup, and instead of the recoil spring, maybe the disconnector lifter spring is what breaks in a bit and eventually alleviates this. Makes sense that if you leave the gun with slide locked back for a while, it will be compressing that disconnector head down, and that's what works in and eases up rather than the larger recoil spring. Wondering if those who have had pre-safety-upgreade models were experiencing hangup out of battery, as that would essentially 'remove' this as a culprit. But again, just letting the gun sit with slide locked back overnight for two nights has pretty much eliminated the hangups.

Hello All, I'm pretty active in both Sig Talk and the CZ Forum, but figured I'd join here too because there's such a wealth of info. Got started in IDPA and USPSA this year, and I can't get enough of it. Anyway, looking forward to networking and sharing more info.....and learning! I have the same username in both Sig Talk and CZ Forums.

I just went through this with both a Shadow 2 (with stock sear/hammer) and a Shadow 1 (with CGW adjustable sear/comp hammer) when installing new CGW discos. Even though they were both 'drop-in', there still needed to be some fitting on some pistols because of slight variations. Like you, I couldn't get hammer fall with a full DA pull...sometimes all the way back on the frame, sometimes well beyond where the SA overtravel screw was. After some trial and error, and info from places like here, I finally got it to be at the same point as my SA break. Basically, I found the filing off material from the underside of the disco's 'wing' will advance the hammer fall in DA. But I went too far on a T1 disco, took off too much material, and it caused the hammer to fall too early. That a) may not provide enough hammer power for reliable ignition (light strikes), and/or b) will be uncomfortable because after an early break your trigger then has 'post-slack' and you sort of slam it back. Anyway, I went too far using a Dremel to file down. I learned my lesson and went slower with some small diamond files (the CGW discos are quite hard). The disco's wing is around .115" in thickness. When I went too far, I filed it down to around .104". When I went slow, I settled on the right spot at around .109", so you see how narrow the margin for error is. The area I'm referring to is indicated in this pic as "C" (blue). There have been other discussions on this with differing approaches. The one I recounted worked for me, but there is also an approach of filing the top or bottom of the big 'hook'.... Here's another......