Joe4d

Tungston one will work even better, but reloading for lighter recoiling ammo works best

I have a novak 160 tritium front that came off my 9mm commander the tritium vial broke so now it is basically a veteran white dot yours for the asking, PM me your address I'll stick it in an envelope and mail it to you. Might need a little loctight but it will let you know what you need,

Thumb safeties are far from drop in, you'll need to do quite a bit of fitting to get it right. I prefer the shape of the Wilson combat. I didnt like the way the Edbrowns curve down. But I have never questioned the quality of an Ed Brown part, so it is just a personal feel issue. The Gunsight safety works good for correcting issues with deactivating the grip safety, The lower thumb safety will bring the heal of your hand slightly lower and put more movement on the grip safety. All fine and dandy till you have a left hand only string and it gets flipped up after every shot.

I agree with the front tritium but they are kinda pricey to experiment with, I believe Brownells carries a .400 square novak cut height that is under $20, Id put that one and be certain of front height before ordering. Sight sets dont seem to ever work out for me.

getting the front sight perfect is gonna be tough , especially with a less than mainstream caliber. I used a 1.165 with Novak rear on a 9mm commander. Geenrally I just use whatever front sight I have in the parts bin and make a trimmable sight out of electrical tape over that, Then trim to zero, mike and you're all set.

Webster defines a finger as , any of the five terminating members of the hand, If you are press checking you are still in the process of loading.

well yes you are right in your observation but you are wrong on your conclusion, Your gun is zeroed to it's position when the bullet leaves the barrel, Thats why a bullet traveling at 800 fps will hit in a slightly different point than a bullet traveling 900 fps, SO you aim at the target, pull trigger the gun starts to flip up before it leaves the barrel so the bullet hits a little high, but basically the exact little high every time, so you crank down on the rear sight to zero, which compensates for the little bit of muzzel rise. You also will compensate for the arc of travel of the bullets since we arnt shooting lasers yet.

There is a difference between a stage being harder for a certain division, and a match director intentionally designing a stage to hinder a certain shooter or division. When you do things like build a whole match with 4.5 foot ports because a tall guy has been winning matches, or set up arrays to mess with a certain round count. Make good legal stages without any thought to who is shooting what gun. Let the cards fall where they will in a random fashion.

231 is a pretty fast powder, more suited for limited loads, Alot of 45 shooters like it under cast bullets. You may be better off selling it. I'm not gonna say its impossible but getting a 115-124 gr bullet to major power factor in a 38 with 231 is pretty iffy, Even if you could it wouldnt work the comp very well. Really its just not suited for the application.

You seem to be heading down the path of designing a stage to handicap or slow a particular shooter or particular group of shooters, This isnt really the direction USPSA needs to go. Just make the stages without trying to screw with a certain group. The games about speed power and accuracy, Playing mind fart game with optical illusions shouldnt be what a match is about.

Not a dumb question, just a seriously lacking match announcement. Location and date would be nice, as well as which sport.

probably some geek with a laptop, and a bit of software and hardware could best them all

depends on your goal, Generally the ciener and marvel conversions are reliable and accurate enough for practice and trigger time. They still dont really cut it in serious rimfire competition where Rugers and Brownings rule the day. Some of the conversions require premium rimfire ammo to run reliably which kinda defeats the purpose of cheap practice. Several years ago the answer I came up with was I could buy a hole truckload of cast bullets, primers and powder for the cost of a Ruger 22/45, nowadays with bullets $100 per k and primers $25 per k and the .22 pistols still the same price I may have to rethink that.

Save yourself alot of hassel and get a STI. The greatest gun in the world isnt worth a fart in the wind if there arnt any working magazines. A company that has been around forever but wont get off there rearends and design a magazine that works isnt worth the time and trouble to mess with. STI have a little higher purchase price but at least you can buy mags that work and have a local company that will fix your gun if there is a problem

Why do you think it needs a new barrel ? If it isnt rusted and pitted or have 100,000 rounds through it it is probably fine, fitting a new bushing is pretty simple, cheap and will probably improve your accuracy. Drop in 1911 parts generally mean, "Drop in on your pistol smith and get them fitted." It isnt rocket science and I have done a few, but it aint just gonna go together and work.

My point was, 6 inch Paras were deemed legal because there were 500 6" components, and Super duper famous guy had one even though at that time Para had never made a 6" gun. While the True sight and Sighttracker top end were deemed to only be Limited legal if they were mounted on a S_I frame, because that was the only way 500 complete guns were made. This is a hypocritical double standard, Since Dan Wesson has evidently announced they are only making 40 guns I am wondering which interpretation of the rules NROI will decide to use ?

I am using the Diamond version, its best of both worlds open express and ability to make precision shots. For most stuff anywhere in the diamond is good, For fine or small shots I drop the dot into the V, I like mine very much, The Chrono guys have liked them pretty well also. I wouldnt go with the circle, while the speed aspect is there you wont have the precision if you really need a tight shot.

Might be an old video shot under an older rulebook.

it isnt the powder it's Lazer casts lube that smokes,

All three of the Elites are USPSA legal. The basic configurations and parts are all legal. Chris I guess that would depend on whether Smuckatelly Bob shows up with one, or super duper sponsored guy does. Evidently that has something to do with whether the complete gun or components rule is applied. Just look at the sight tracker/ 6" Para double standard.

Lee factory crimp die, guess I dont follow directions to well, I loaded thousands of these with tightgroup and the factory crimp die before I heard of this websight or read on Precisions websight I should not be using either, I just kept on loading, I did switch to WST when I went to a 6" gun.

Well if they are only making 40 total, I think we should file a protest on the limited gun not meeting the 500 quantity quota.

You know, you'd think that, but it's absolutely not a safe assumption to make. First off, a standard factory 9mm load will rarely make a Luger function...they were designed around what is at least what we now call +P pressures. The weakest link would almost certainly be an inexpensive modern gun, not something like a Luger, P-38, early Hi-Power etc. Second, steel used in guns (and anything else) isn't necessarily better now than it was 100 years ago. In many cases, it's nowhere near as good as it was. My father and I did a lot of car work when I was younger. He has tools that he got when he was a teenager that were given to him from his uncle (my great uncle, who was a blacksmith). They were quality brands like Williams, Snap-On, but some early Sears Craftsman stuff as well. I can't count how many new Snap-On and Craftsman tools we broke...sockets that split, extensions that sheared in half. Not once did we ever break one of the old tools, and I specifically recall one extremely thin-walled socket (in a very common size) that was made specifically for a particular bolt on Flathead Ford engines. That thing is thin, and my father joked "yeah, I've been trying to break it for 40 years and haven't managed to yet". German steel, specifically, from the turn of the century, as used by Mauser, Luger, etc was extremely high quality, and probably better than stuff like 416 stainless we see most commonly today. R, +1 Just because it's old, doesn't mean it's inferior. Yeh that's what I keep telling the girls at the sports bar,, doesnt seem to be working for me.

Use cast bullet 185 or 180 data, then chrono to get what you want. I found that the worse the barrel the better the bullet works, They shot best in a 1918 GI gun. and shot terrible in a Les Bear.