Bob DuBois

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Usually dump three when starting run after adjustments are done then a few more once up to operating speed.

Either a Lee U die or a Standard size is every caliber I load on either a 550 or 650. Lee's sizing die will size closer to the extractor groove than other brands and a little tighter. You will need Dillons powder through die to bell and drop powder. I turn the powder through die down just a little using a sized piece of brass. Sized brass should just slip on the Dillon Powder through die. I used a drill press and sandpaper. Polish the Powder Through die on the outside and inside when through, helps powder bridging above the die. Lee's seating die works well but I had a local machinist cut a flat insert. Keeps OAL very close. Prefer Dillon"s crimp die andonly crimp a couple of thousands. Measure the case with a bullet seated and bring it under a couple thousands. First stage size holds the bullet in the case. Crimp allows the round to chamber. To much crimp accuracy suffers. Don't care for the factory crimp Die as it was designed for home cast tumble lube bullets. If used back it off and use as a standard crimp die. Buy Dillon nuts and you will probably lock the size die from the bottom of the tool head. Lee's carbide ring in the sizing die is close to the mouth of the case. Adjust all your dies the come back to the sizing die. Using a small strip of paper as a go no go gauge, it should pull out but not push in. You are working the brass a little harder be sure to lube cases. Try and set the press up level. Use powdered graphite as a lube on the primer slide, anything wet attracts spilled powder. Have good lighting you must be able to look in station three before placing the bullet. I'm older and drilled a hole behind station three so I place a small mirror, pocket inspection mirror, shimmed the handle with finishing nails. There's a dealer on E Bay that sells a longer primer slide with a bearing for just under thirty bucks, great item that brings the primer slide back to the same place every time. Enjoy your press mine is over thirty years old and well used. Dillion service, Outstanding!

Bought some at Sportsman's Warehouse last week.

Using a Lee sizing die stage one, a Lee seating die stage three and a Dillon crimp die stage four. If your shooting one bullet for a few bucks you can send the bullet to Lee and they will cut you an insert for that bullet. I had a local machinist cut me a flat insert that pushes on the nose of the bullet. OAL is more consistent in fact very close. Lee's sizing die will size closer to the extractor groove and a little tighter than other brands. Also turned the Dillon powder through die down a little in a drill press and sandpaper so a sized piece of brass just slides on the powder through die to stop chigger bites, little cupped marks on the case mouth. Don't for the Factory crimp die and if it's used backed it off so it just crimps. Loaded on a Dillon 550

Love the Homemade stuff and have several on my machines.. 550 guys there's a guy in Texas selling an extended primer slide with a bearing. Very pleased with it and the primer slide bar goes back to the same place every time check it out on E Bay.

Hard Chrome, have several over the years. Holds up under holster wear, gun stays tighter longer. Blue is beautiful but won't last long. Least little thing wears the finish. Hard Chrome is money well spent to me. If your planning on mill work complete all modifications then have the gun chromed. Open and Limited guns are held by a trigger guard holster so wear better than a standard holster. My IDPA 9mm Trojan has been shot enough it's been had the barrel replaced, slide to frame is still tight. Little rust spots on grip safety but it's been shot a lot and drawn from a plastic holster a lot. Living in the south and lots of humidity a little trick I learned was to wipe my guns down with Mink Oil like you put on boots. Brings out the color in a good blue job, use it on the chrome guns also.

There's another seller who posts on E Bay a really good knob for $12. I have installed these with Great results in six Dillon Powder Measures.. while your at it go by the hard ware store and get some 1/8th inch wire screen. Using the top draw out a circle and cut out, I removed the plastic cylinder and polished the bowl and lightly on the bars. Powder drops more consistent and installed the screen between the bowl and cylinder. Now nothing gets in the powder measure but powder. Had a piece of metal scrap from production that came in an eight pound can of powder. We had a local ammo manufacturer plant burn down because a primer some how got into the powder measure and start a fire The screen will stop that.

My 38 Super open gun when it was new had similar issues. Bill Fender suggested to get an Ed Brown 45 pin and turn it down using a drill and sandpaper till it just slid easily through the firing pin hole. That pin fixed the issue and has been in the gin for about twelve years now. Firing pin hole was to large for a standard sizes pin.

Always lube cases especially when using the U die. Sometimes there's a problem at the powder through die sticking also. Here with the U die your sizing the brass tighter than a standard die so the case neck is tight on th

First Stage sizing die holds the bullet. Crimp alows the round to chamber easily.. While I'm a huge fan of Lee's sizing dies and use a Lee seating die I'm not a fan of the FCD. This die was used to crimp Lee's tumble Lube bullets not standard bullets. Too much crim and accuracy will suffer. Use a Dillon crimp die, measure the case with the bullet seated subtract .002 that's where I set the crimp. 9mm usually measures .380 so set crimp at .378. I spend time sorting 9mm brass as it can vary a lot. Trash military cases because of the swagged primer and case volume is less. Trash any cases that have splits, chigger bites or any other issues. Easiest way using three plastic factory trays. Place two in a box open side up, pour brass into trays most will land base down. Lock in the cases for trash or pooblems and remove, standard pencile eraser works fine. Place the third tray over the first them flip like a primer flip tray. Look at the bases for swagged primers odd case marks or any other reason to trash. The factory cases with square pockets work best. While looking turn the tray sideways and you can easily spot .380's or supers that worked there way in the tumbler. Always lube cases makes the whole process easier on the brass, dies, press and the operator.

Have a four year old 15lb main spring in my Trojan 9mm no issues with Winchester.

Mobil 1 5w30 using the small needle oliers from Brownell's. Clean and lube the gun there's as much oil on the gun when you clean it the next tim as you put on it the last. 1911/2011 pistols like oil run better wet. There's a few places on some other guns I might use a slight touch of grease. I"m older and several of my guns have thousands of rounds through them still shoot great still like Mobil 1. Easy to use, holds up. easy to clean, inexpensive, works!

Always shot OPB, Other peoples brass. Have bought 38 Super in the past but 9,40 and 45 are easy enough to pick up. There's enough shooters that come to range and walk away from brass, don't reload so it's of no value to them to build up a nice stock pile over the years. Spend some time inspecting range brass especially 9mm. Quickest way I have found is to use three factory trays, the ones with the square holes work best. Place to in a box mouth up the pour a hand full in to the trays, most will fall base down. Look at the case mouth, check for trash, dirt splits and chigger bits little cups on the case mouth. discard any that look bad. Place the other tray over the first and flip, like a primer flip tray. Inspect for swagged primers, any that have a little ring stamped around the primer, military cases have a smaller case volume and are swagged, I won't keep any with a questionable head stamp or flattened primer. Flatten primers are likely shot through an open gun and may look good but may not hold a primer. The tray trick works well also for finding other calibers that have worked there way into the tumbler. Just turn the tray sideways length vary if the wrong caliber is in it. A pencil works well to remove open mouth cases. Nut picker makes it easy on the back. Just wait till a stage is finished. May check some of the indoor ranges, may have range brass for sale at a reasonable price.

Bought several items I was very pleased with. Extended primer slide for a 550 with bearing. seats the primer slide back to the same place every time and a knurled bolt to go in a Dillon Powder measure. Bolt was well made replaces the Dillon bolt and is very easy to adjust. Both items fairly priced at buy it now and Great vendors to deal with.

I spend some time inspecting 9mm brass. I found by using a box and a couple of plastic factory trays I can inspect brass easily Take a box place a tray in the bottom then pour cleaned 9mm brass into the tray most will land mouth up. Here I inspect for chigger bites, splits ot trach in the brass. Take the second tray and place it over the first then flip like a primer flip tray. Here I discard any with a swagged primer, military cases have a smaller case volume so they are discarded along with any others I don't want. the others are placed in a rbbber made dish pan holds around 2,000 pieces. Once inspected they are lubed then loaded. The tray also work well on picking out .380's or supers that found there way in the tumbler. Also works well getting .357 out of 38 Special. Small primed 45 out of large etc.

Items 1 and 2 can be a big deal when you purchase a rifle or a pistol with a tight chamber. 550 is a much more versatile machine.

Started with a 550 then bought a second 550 Later bought a loaded 650. 650 is faster running but a little longer to change over. If your loading short runs then changing calibers 550 is the way to go. Easier to save bad rounds on a 550. Loading 223 I have a tool head set up with a full length sizing die, Lee then a neck sizer when prepping brass then another tool head to load on. Bought a three dollar inspection mirror, drilled a hole just in front of the back left mounting hole and secured the mirror there. I can easily inspect station three while seated. Bought the extended primer slide with bearing off E Bay very pleased as it stops the wobble out of the primer slide. There are times a 550 will do work a 650 won't as pull bullets with a collet puller. You'll need a good light to see station three bought a clamp light from Lowe's. My 550 is mounted flat on the bench and has the roller handle. 650 wish I had bought it sooner, usually leave it set on 9mm but load 38 Super, 40 S@W on it, Well tuned with both spent and fresh primer catch cups, bearing kits light springs it runs very well. I use Lee's sizing die in the first station on both presses. Lee for a few bucks will cut an insert to go in the seating die, helps hold OAL tight and a Dillon crimp die. Modified my Powder Measures by replacing the adjustment bolt by one sold on E Bay for $12.00 has the knob machined on the bolt very well made and easy to adjust. Cut screens from 1/8th wire screen from the hardware store, using the top as a guide mark the screen with a sharpie. Installed between the tube and housing, also polished the inside of the housing and powder through die. Stops bridging, powder drops more consistant. Sorry for being long winded but bottom line speed cost how fast do you want to go. both machines will produce quality ammo. Both will provide years of use.

Really like the U die but to make it easier. Remove the powder funnel, turn down the neck till a piece of sized brass slips on the funnel. I used a drill press and sand paper then polished the outside and the inside of the funnel. This will stop the sticking and the occasional chigger bite on the case mouth. Setting the U die use a thin strip of paper as a go no go gauge, it should pull out with drag but not push in with tension on the operating handle. The carbide insert in Lee's dies are closer to the case mouth and you can crack the insert if it's set to tight to the shell plate. Lube cases, it's a big deal your sizing the brass even tighter and closer to the extractor groove. Your machine needs to be in time and may run a little slower. Polishing the inside of the funnel helps bridging I also polish the inside of the powder measure first with some 400 paper then Simichrome Polish, I get it at a Motorcycle Supply Store but can be purchased at Midway or Brownell's. There's a one piece powder adjustment bolt for sale on E Bay. He sells it for $12.00 this was a great addition to my powder measures. Well made easy to operate. Also use Lee's seating die and the dealer made some flat inserts so your pushing on the tip of the bullet not the sides. I can hold OAL tighter. Prefer Dillons crimp die as the Lee FCD can affect accuracy, if used back the adjustment off so it just crimps. I like to set crimp light, .0002 to .0004 here again to much crimp can affect accuracy. Seen several guns with tight chambers that wouldn't run start running by going to the U die. At present using standard Lee sizing die in everything but 40S@W that where the U die really shines. Loading on 650.

Red Dot is my second choice, Clays first choice

Just hit 70 and still banging away. Started at 40 so earlier start than most here. Hang in guys shooting sports are still fun!

Check spring that pushes the round over the locator. Had one broken. Little bit of filing to remove any burs. Powdered Graphite as a lube and setting the press up level.

Use a Wilson Chamber Gauge for this issue. 40 S#W is a place where Lee's U die shines. It will size the brass tighter and closer to the extractor groove than other brands. Have used it in both my 550 and 650 in station one with great results. Also have some older Midway chamber gauges that work well. Same issue in 223 Remington ammo that fits in a Dillon gauge may not run in a tight chambered rifle. When loading with the U die, set so a thin strip of paper just pulls out with pressure on the operating handle, a go no go gauge. The carbide ring is close to the case mouth and if set to tight will break the carbide ring. Always lube cases.

Sometimes to much crimp will cause bullets to tumble. If that doesn't fix it try a .356 bullet.

I don't load .380 but load on a 650. The new style primer punch seats the primer with spring tension. I bought a Lee Primer tool and cases that aren't seated to depth can easily be seated. Usually don't have problems with Winchester Primers. I have seen stock Glocks choke using CCI Primers. CCI Primers take the hardest hit to set off. Not seated properly and you'll have issues.