George16

I talked to one of the reps yesterday and they’ll be shipping their Autodrive this week. Glad you’re finally getting yours.

Cuz, I have a MK7 on a Dillon RL1100. The firmware that came with the MK7 is the latest and I was able to process brass at 2500 RPH. I tried 3000 and 3500 for a few seconds and the whole machine was shaking like crazy. I got the same answer re speed when I called MK7 to ask and order a machine from them. They told me it’ll take 6-8 weeks because they’re fulfilling orders for their resellers and distributors so I ended up buying one from DAA. The MK7 I got actually have “1050 Pro” on the belt cover. Setting it up. ETA: I called Dillon yesterday to order some stuff and the rep told me that they’re shipping out the Autodrive this week.

I can actually run below 1000 RPH ( 800-900) by increasing the dwell time of the machine. Towards the end of the manual, it explains the dwell times.

Oops, my mistake. I just corrected my original post to show 1000 RPH. Sorry for the confusion.

The manual needs to be updated. I received my MK7 from DAA two weeks ago and it has the latest firmware. Here’s a pic showing the available speeds on the tablet.

Current firmware sets the slowest speed at 1000 RPH.

I ran out of patience and ordered the MK7 from DAA two weeks ago. Ordered it on a Friday afternoon and received it Tuesday the following week. It has been working reliably with my RL1100 so far.

Can you post a picture or video showing the wedge to see if it’s rubbing against the plate?

Ben, you have a steel insert in your TXG grip. Here’s a couple of pictures I took a few years back when I bought the TXG grip for my original X5. TXG grip with stainless steel insert but without the magwell. Stainless steel insert from the TXG grip Stainless steel insert from original X5 polymer grip both insert

Check your local hardware store. You can also order them from McMaster.com. I think it’s a 1/4”-20 shoulder bolt iirc.

I bought some magnets from Amazon and installed two of them on my casefeeder. They’re attached to the metal clip where the plastic tube snaps into. Heres a link to the Amazon magnets: https://www.amazon.com/LOVIMAG-Neodymium-Countersunk-Adhensive-Refrigerator/dp/B08YYNFQ41/ref=sr_1_15?crid=2YUGTNWLG97NV&keywords=Magnet&qid=1651115237&sprefix=magnet%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-15&th=1

Just do it. Or you can go to Home Depot and buy a comparable spring for less than $2.

You’re welcome. You’d be amazed at what the M1 chip along with Pencil can do with graphic works and drawings . If the new IPad Air came out at the same time with the IPad Pro, I would have bought it instead of the Pro to save about $500.

If you want to be able to use the power of the M1 chip, I recommend getting the new iPad Air to save some money. I bought my 15 year old daughter a new IPad Mini with the new Pencil for use with SketchUp, CAD/CAM in her engineering prep class. Unfortunately, the new iPad Mini (A15 chip) doesn’t have enough grunt for her homework so she always end up borrowing my IPad Pro (newest Generation) to do her homework using sketchup and CAD/CAM. I just ordered the new iPad Air ($100 more than the new iPad Mini but half the price compared to the IPad Pro) for her so she have her own and won’t be “borrowing” my IPad Pro. The new iPad Air comes with the M1 chip just like my iPad Pro for half the price.

The picture is correct but the side of the extension with the locking pin goes in first. make sure the locking pin is pushed out so you can insert it right to left based on your picture and then push in the locking pin to keep the extension in place. You’re installing the extension from left to right so it won’t go past that lip. Doing it right to left as I stated will enable the lip to butt in against the magazine. I just removed and reinstalled my TTI +2 on my 21 round mags just to verify I’m correct and I am.

Based on the picture, you’re inserting the TTI extension from the wrong side in. It should go from right to left with the locking pin end first with the locking pin in the up position. After that, push the locking pin in to lock it in place.

Those have crimped primer pockets so they need to be swaged. Other headstamps to look out for are WCC, WMA, Ammoload (stepped brass), ZQI.

You’re welcome.

The people who said it won’t work never had both guns and never tried them. As you can see, it works without any mods. These pictures were taken a few years ago after getting my czechmate.

Yes. You can. I swapped the slide ride from my Czechmates to my TSO just to check and it worked without any problems. No need to take any metal off. There’s no need to modify anything.

I finally received my Rollsizer the other day from Houston after waiting for it to be back in stock. I set it up to Rollsize 9, 40 and 45 using my variable speed Dillon case feeder with the DAA plate and wedge. So far, the case feeder was outrunning the Rollsizer with six pins installed. I didn’t experience any jams with the 9 and 40 brass but I had one with the .45. A little adjustment on the DAA wedge did the trick. So far, I’m very satisfied with both. Now to wait for the decapper to be back in stock so I can order one .

And make sure it’s clean too. Sometimes, carbon buildup or shards of brass wedged in there can prevent it from properly resetting. I clean mine with non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner and blow it dry with my air compressor prior to lubrication.

Have you checked the disconnector spring to make sure it’s not broken?

Just pinch it above the magazine catch hole. That’s where the ammo transitions from double stacked to staggered and to single towards the feed lips.