George16

Post it then.

That’s the spacer I was talking about.

I also run 11# recoil spring but with a CGW 11.5# main spring. No problem with 23 rounds using grams springs and followers.

I sure will. I was about to do it on my other case feeder but I ended up selling it with my XL650. I know for a fact the brushless motors I have produce more torque compared to the stock casefeeder motor since I was able run my 14# electric truggy up to 72 mph using 6S LiPo batteries.

I’d rather use Lee and Redding than Dillon dies.

This is true if and only if the speed or velocity are the same. However, as @Guy Neillposted, the velocity of a heavier bullet is slower compared to a lighter bullet is lower to achieve the same PF. Supersonic speed is about 1126 ft/s at sea level. A 115 Gr bullet traveling at that speed has a PF of 129.49. For a 147 Gr bullet to achieve the same PF, it only needs to travel at 880.88 ft/s. With that said, it only requires a considerably smaller amount of powder to achieve that compared to a 115 Gr bullet. So the resulting recoil is less making it “softer shooting”.

Mine was the new variable speed and still too weak. Once it craps out, I’ll replace it with one of the brushless motors I have for my RC buggies. I think the stock motor is either a 540 or 550 Mabuchi- type but I can say for sure unless I take it off of the circuit board. I can probably wire up one of my digital ESC (electronic speed controller) so it can match up with the brushless motor replacement. These are some of the spare motors I have for my RCs: ESC:

What you have is not a crush washer but a tapered “spacer”. When I replaced the flash hider on my MPX, I used alignment shims in addition to the tapered spacer to properly clock the compensator.

I bet those are not ZQI. ZQI is not stepped or doesn’t have that ledge inside. I have seen ZQI brass and have reloaded them just to try and they worked great.

I put 200 bullets at a time and about 400 cases. The case feeder won’t run when it’s full. The motor is weak and can’t rotate the plate.

Based on the case feeder setup, it can be either be the RL1100, Super 1050 and/or CP 2000.

If that’s the case, the follower and spring set is made by grams. The springs are very stiff at first so just keep them loaded for a few days to break it in.

Are you using the stock followers? If so, trim it. If not, just keep the mags loaded for a few days.

It’s very easy to remove the tool head and install the light. Use the big (10mm iirc) Allen wrench that came with the 1100 to unscrew the tool head mounting bolt. Make sure the tool head is in the down position when initially breaking loose the tool head bolt. Once it a little bit loose, raise the tool head to remove it. Be careful taking it off since it under spring pressure. As stated by @cbrussell, you can use glue or double-sided tape to keep them in place. The light has a quick disconnect portion of it. You can buy one whole set ( light and wiring/switch) with an additional light fixture for additional tool heads. I have one wiring set/switch for use with three light fixtures since I have three tool heads.

Another vote for the reloading innovations light. I got one for each of my three toolheads.

The screws were a little bit long and enough to just contact the barrel as it moves. After that, the the screws were shaved down to the point they don’t drag against the barrel anymore. I had that happen to mine when I installed new screws to accommodate a CZ Custom multi optic point and a thumb rest since the original screws were not long enough. After cutting down the screws and making sure they don’t protrude (two mounting holes are through holes/other one closest to the grip is not), the slide worked without any problems. It pays to have the slide out of the frame when installing the mount and/or thumb rest so you can see if the screws were a little bit too long,

The 1/2” is quite flimsy. I tried it and didn’t like the result so I returned the 1/2” and a 3/4” diameter pipe. It’s a lot sturdier and more stable.

Nice .

As stated above, CZ custom sells the optic mount. Make sure you order part # 10526 or 10529 (has holes to mount the thumb rest). Armory craft sells the red short grips and mag release button.

Use a flat tip screw driver or a small Philips.

This. @Cuz, check out page 30 of the 1100 manual. It shows how to adjust primer seating depth. Dillon recommends adjusting the primer seating so the primers are seated between .002” - .006” (.008” max) below the case head. Use a 5/32” Allen wrench to adjust the Primer Adjusting Push Rod up or down to get the desired depth as recommended by Dillon. I don’t have the Everglades gizmo but my primers are seated at the proper depth without any problems. I don’t believe it’s really necessary as long as the primer Adjusting Push Rod is adjusted proeprly.

Station 3. Remove your Swage hold down due and replaced it with your sizing due. Your MBF powder funnel will do the belling/flaring of the case.

If you put the sizing die on station 3, it’ll also act as a Swage hold-down die. The “neck expanding” will be taken care of by the MBF powder funnel. Im using an FW Arms primer popper decapping which is self-centering to prevent crush cases.

I second buying the Ammobrass Swage setter. I bought the 9mm/.223 and setting the Swage rod has never been easier.

I meant to say, “can’t” hence my additional info about using graphite instead.