IsaacB

I shoot limited/SS USPSA. I go out of my way not to have an ambi. Ambis break and also get in the way of my trigger finger knuckle. People say that you need them for weak hand shooting, but in USPSA you never have to draw weak handed in. You always have it in your strong hand first to take the safety off. One advantage is that for weak handed shooting, some people can use the right side as a thumb rest to counter recoil, although my thumb slips off.

I'm a skinny guy. The DA are the only ones that let me keep the mags where I can get to them (bullets out).

That sounds like a warranty problem. You're on the hook for a new frame or a very good welder.

Are you talking about the little hole that the trigger guard screw goes through? Connecting the grip to the frame? I've heard of that breaking if a steel grip is not fit properly, but that's about it.

To me this sounds like a back-to-basics diagnostic thread. In general, if the recoil spring is within normal specs the gun should run. If the difference between a 16 and 18lb recoil spring is the difference between function and jamming, then you're right on the edge of reliability even if you do get it running. You have either a geometry issue or a friction issue somewhere. I'd start by checking extractor tension to see if it is way too tight. That can slow down the slide as extra energy is used to push the round under the claw. I'd then pull the extractor from the slide and ensure that it has a smooth curve at the bottom. With the extractor out, also check the breechface and firing pin hole for any rough spots or burrs. Next step is to make sure the feedramp to chamber transition is smooth. My RIA had a super sharp transition that would actually shave the brass. I do think your recoil spring is excessive, but I do not think that it is the root cause of your problem. The above items all had to be addressed on my RIA. I am sure others will have different suggestions to try as well.

I bought a stock STI used that I knew had problems. Dropped an Aftec in and reworked the mags. 15k later it hasn't given me a problem yet. If you are ok with tuning mag lips and working with the extractor tension, I think you'll be fine. If either of those two things make you nervous, then I'd say pony up for a Dawson or Brazos tuned gun at a minimum. Also, with these pure steel guns built like brick shithouses, a used gun is better than a new gun in my mind. 2500 rounds is barely broken in. If you can find a used gun that some other guy already went through the hassle of debugging (or can vouch for the out-of-box reliability), then you have it made.

Thanks everyone. I forgot that I had a $50 certificate to Bayou from a prize table last year. Ordered some 140gr bullets and will see if there's an appreciable difference.

1. The Phoenix Trinity steel grip is contoured and feels great in small hands (also a $650ish upgrade) 2. If you want to shoot in Limited division, yes a 2011 would be better. Single stack only allows 1911s, so there would be a division in USPSA for either caliber. 3. Atlas Gunworks is at the top of you price range, but they are the biggest thing to happen to competition guns lately. They can make you a bushing 2011. Also come with the PT grip described above. Check out their YouTube videos: they are very helpful. Otherwise any good builder should be able to trick out an STI Eagle or fit a bushing barrel to a 2011. Other option that lots of people who shoot IDPA and USPSA choose is the CZ SP01 Shadow. Great for small hands. Can shoot in production division (which is always minor in USPSA) or cock it and shoot it like a 2011 in Limited. CZ Tac Sports is another single action only favorite option (or TS Orange if you can find one).

You can use Glock recoil springs for your flatwire Wilson guide rod. Opens up more options. A little oil or grease helps with the sound.

4.2gr for a 180gr Blue Bullet gives my wife's CZ Tac Sports 965fps (174 PF) at 1.135 OAL

Deep River Custom sells a threaded tungsten sleeve bushing that you thread onto a bushing barrel to make it into a sleeved bull barrel for $80. That's where I would start.

These are great data points. Thank you.

Be honest here: Does anyone reallllly truly trust their SS 40 to run 100% when shooting minor? Not trying to be a smarty pants here: it just seems like it gets touted as being this great upside to 40...until another thread pops up asking how to get the first two rounds to feed from a 10 round mag. Do we have anyone with enough rounds through their 40 to say that they personally trust their rig enough that they would drive to a major match and not have any concerns about feeding all 10 rounds through a mag every single time? I still have another month until I get my SS 40, so I personally have zero experience with it. Just curious.

Hello internet, I am looking to dabble in 40 minor. I'd like to just swap the bullet and keep the change the same. Right now I am running: 180gr Blue Bullet 4.2gr Titegroup 1.14 OAL and getting 961 fps (173pf) out of a 5inch barrel Any ideas on where to start to get a good cartridge that meets minor pf with the same charge and OAL? I'd like to stick with the Blue Bullets, but don't know that going from 180gr to 165gr would add up to much a difference. Thoughts?

That's a great point as well. The 'right' spring could change as you develop and/or get used to your pistol.

There are guys at my local matches shooting major 40 with 11lb recoil springs that have no damage to their frames (2011s, one CZ TS). I think the risk of actual frame damage is pretty low if you underspring a gun. The test I have ran is to have someone watch me shoot two rounds as fast as I can into a target. If the second shot is high, it means the recoil spring is too weak (slide is returning to battery too slow). If the second round is low, the recoil spring is too heavy (slide is returning too quickly and causing a dip). People talk about using your ejection patterns to determine recoil spring rate. I personally only care about how quickly I can get shots on target. The brass can go wherever it wants.

I have experienced this with a tight mag and a weak recoil spring. My issue was the mag exerting so much upward force that the slide lost velocity and didn't have enough force to strip a round. Granted that was with a Glock and not an STI, it may be worth looking at.

I thought the idea was so that you can use a lower mainspring. The lower mass accelerates faster and provides more energy to the primer than an equal setup with heavier parts.

Where can I learn more about those Canyon Creek magwells? I did a Google and didn’t come up with much. Do they work with stock basepads?

One thing I didn’t think of is ammo. If you loan long, the cheap plastic backup idea probably wouldn’t work for you. I load 40 at 1.140 so it works in all of my platforms.

You’re not wrong. I think the inconvenience is minimal, but your situation may vary. For me it isn’t a big deal. The same pouches work for both mags. Three Glock mags and an extra paddle holster doesn’t take up an appreciable amount of space vs. just an extra 2011. I thought it would be worth mentioning since the only two other options presented were keep the extra 2011 or sell it and have no backup at all.

I like the SV tubes. The feel better to me. I threw one during dryfire though. They feel really slick in the hand with the sexy curve in the middle. I saw a team Infinity shooter add grip tape in that curve for the same reason at a match.

I keep a backup gun, but I don’t care if it’s an exact match. Like you’ve mentioned, it’s so rare that a gun goes down hard enough to warrant switching to a backup. I use a stock Glock 22 with a few extended mags as my backup for limited. If a main gun goes down, the match is probably degraded to such a point that having a second 2011 wouldn’t be enough to recover. If it were me, I’d find any cheap/reliable gun to use as a backup and put the rest towards what you want. A LEO trade in plastic fantastic and basepads can be had for pretty cheap. Then less money is sitting in the range bag as match insurance. I’m assuming you already have an extra parts kit with the commonly broken and easy to replace parts to get your main rig running at the safety table (slide stops, firing pins, etc).

Yes the Titan will run on factory 9mm. If you're used to shooting factory 9mm through a plastic gun, you'll still see a difference by moving to the titan. I think the difference between hand-tuned 9mm and factory ammo is a whole lot smaller than the difference there is on 40.

Bingo. Look up why people advise against dropping a bullet into a pistol chamber and then drop the slide. I'm not saying that there are issues with the pistol style extractor in a PCC, but I feel better with an AR style extractor that was designed to snap over the rim.