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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About ACree

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Lafayette, IN
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    Andy Cree

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  1. That has been STI's M.O. for quite some time now. I would venture to guess with the money they save with the crappy MIM parts, low labor time, and mass production, they must still be making money or they would have changed by now. People still seem to buying them up....
  2. How many returns for repairs will it take to get STI to either step up their quality or will it take a serious drop in sells?
  3. That is one of the many issues that has plagued STI for years and fuels many of the threads in this forum. Barrel replacement is a must and whomever gave you the "shoot it until it falls off" advise is foolish.
  4. Lots of good ones out there. I used only EGW.
  5. Mark the frame, try to seat the grip, file or stone, refit, rinse and repeat. A rotary tool can help as well as long as you are careful and don't make a mess of it.
  6. I saw my share of STI's come through my business for all sorts of issues. The biggest problem that I saw with STI lately was that they have put more emphasis on production than quality. Cracked comps, cracked slides, MIM internals with visible voids, hammer and sear pin holes so badly misaligned that there was no way to ever get both hammer hooks to engage, thumb safeties with poorly cut sear engagement surfaces. STI needs to re-focus on producing a better product. With all of these small gun shops opening and producing a much better product they could stand to loose their foothold. I think we
  7. Have you tried calling Dawson Precision?
  8. A poor job done on either scenario results in a junk barrel. However, one way gives the gunsmith the ability to have the complete barrel to properly install. I know of no gunsmith who waited to install a cone or a coned comp until after the barrel lug and hood were fit. Its not a matter of fiddling around, it is a matter of being able to better control the variables. To each his own, but I would rather install the barrel after the coned comped was attached and not after the lug and hood fitting.
  9. ZZT, the difference being that the new barrel will have an uncut lug and hood. So any of the errors created in the threading and attaching of the comp can still be worked out and provide for a well fit barrel. Errors introduced on the comp end cannot easily be corrected on an already cut and fit barrel.
  10. As stated above, it will likely cost you more that just having a new comped barrel installed. You also run the risk of unforeseen problems popping up with the locking end of the barrel. If the initial turning of the barrel is not concentric, the threading not concentric,the internal threading of the comp not concentric.... those compounding errors could cause the barrel to sit in a slightly different position thus ruining what was hopefully a well fit barrel, slide, and slide stop. I think you would be time and money, and less headache, ahead to just have a new barrel installed.
  11. Looks like my first race gun in 1995....
  12. The lateral dents across the two split surfaces of the lug is where the lug is slamming into the take down pin. The area forward of that dark, lateral line where the heavy contact is made is inconsequential. Take a file and gently roll the radius from the dent line down towards the barrel. Mark with a sharpie and cycle a few times and slowly progress. What you want to see is the barrel float onto the radius of the lug and come to rest on the flat before the rear radius without it slamming into the take down pin. Think of it as being in a plane and coming in for a gentles landing versus one tha
  13. I have used the Powers 1 jig. I sent it back. The post coming out from the jig that holds the sear in position was not parallel with the roller holding that guides the stone. As a result, it would hone sears at an angle causing only one hammer hook to engage.
  14. Do not file the most expensive part.... I have no experience with the E2 grip - disclaimer. Start by marking the trigger bow with a sharpie and insert it backwards into the grip (bow first while you hold onto the shoe). See where is makes contact and how much contact is being made. If that fits freely, mark the top and bottom of the trigger shoe and see if it is rubbing. Can also rub on the sides of the shoe at times. Make small adjustments until it fits and slides freely. Again, I would hate to have to make any adjustments to such an expensive part before working over the cheaper
  15. Just my personal observation... The most grossly machined, poorly treated in manufacturing, 2011 I have ever seen came was a model from Akai. They cost a lot of money and I would expect a great deal more.
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