HesedTech

The Ammobot has two boxes, a big one with power supply and other unknown electrical stuff and a small control box with the reset and auto buttons, with the count/message display. Combined into one box, Dillon has made a smaller overall footprint. They did add some “safety” shields to protect careless people from putting there hands in the drive and away from the moving press. Did you notice the poster has removed the shields. I wonder if that voids some sort of warranty? I wonder if any of the old sensors and Immortobot stuff will work with the new drive?

Deleted my comment, not really a great thread that contributes to the sport.

I have to be honest, this thread seems to me to be a bit of click bait. There's no info about when, how, type of gun, level of shooter, USPSA, IDPA or outlaw match. Personal experience with triggers and types, include LEM, Glock style (trigger tab), 1911 (grip), DA/SA, 8 -1.5 lb triggers, short, long and such and it always comes down to personal skill and responsibility. At matches the only ADs I've seen have been during reloading, transitions (over the berm) and initial draws. I have seen YouTube videos where people holstering had something in the trigger area (shirt, pants or finger and the infamous FBI agent who grabbed his drop gun) and then bang! Didn't matter if it was a Glock or a 1911. Be safe, ROs pay attention! And if you don't like striker fired pistols don't use one.

Is this the test? " Disconnector - Is mandatory and is checked by: Arme o cão, e então Cocking the hammer, and then Abra ferrolho até que o espaço entre o ferrolho e o cano seja de aproximadamente 1,5mm ou 1/16”. (As melhores armas disparam apenas quando o espaço é 0). Open the slide until the gap between slide and barrel is approximately 1/16” or1.5mm. (The best firearms only shoots with zero gap). Aperte o gatilho. O cão deve permanecer armado. Press the trigger. The hammer should remain cocked. (Qualquer exceção deve ser aprovada pelo Conselho IPSC e publicada no Website IPSC). (Any exception must be approved by the IPSC Council and published at the IPSCWebsite)." In USPSA we don't use this test, but I tried it on my Stock 2 and CZ Shadow 2, they both pass. I suspect on your gun it is possibly not the disconnector, but rather the trigger bar. That is unless the disconnector has a worn tab and is allowing the trigger bat to rise in an out of battery condition (which really is what the "disconnector test" is verifying). Two possibilities then, worn or damaged trigger bar or disconnector (however, you stated this was new) where it is pushed by the bar. Also the older Stock 2s have a different trigger bar and, while they still work, new disconnectors need to be fitted to them. Try replacing the trigger bar with a new one. Patriot Defense talks about the differences.

Watched your video Yes this is very likely the problem. While the disco can be dropped in sometimes it needs to be fitted to match you trigger bar. As everyone has stated, make sure trigger bar spring is correct, then since it doesn't drop from SA you will have to take some material off the back side of the disco. The disco is preventing the trigger bar from pushing the sear open. Also did you polish the back side of the disco where the trigger bar rides on? Making it smoother may help. If you want to test just the SA, then remove the disco, cock the hammer and see if the trigger bar pushes the sear and releases the hammer. Just a couple of ideas.

That’s where the disco rides as it moves back with trigger pull. It is also what causes the hammer to drop as the trigger bar pushes it back, the disco rises on the frame and the hammer is released. In SA the sear locks the trigger back, the disco prevents the trigger bar from moving forward (thus the short reset/trigger throw) and when the trigger is pulled the bar pushes up the sear and releases the hammer. The issue with the marks is because the disco is hardened and the lower is softer metal. Also the Bolo is free floating with a smaller retaining pin and allows the disco to move a bit more. So what you have here is two different metals rubbing and banging against each other and the softer one loses and get marked. While my Stock 2s have more rounds they are not as badly worn as yours. You need to put a thin layer of grease where the disco rides on. I know too much info. Just grease it up. Also polish the nub of the disco where it rides on the frame.

You are overthinking this. A heavy bullet has more energy because it's heavy, the old kinetic energy thing. A 45ACP for example has a heavy bullet is slow, 1000 fps, but hits hard. Also a high velocity 9mm is a lot harder to grip and control recoil in a small gun. Better to hit intended target than miss. A 150 g at 900 FPS = 135 PF 165 @ 1000 = 165 PF

Yes there is. Even though the size would represent a full size target it lacks two things, depth of visual acuity and the shot angle. Visually our eyes will see things different at the real distances, so a 5 yard target will require our eyes to focus differently than a 10 yard one. The angle of the gun at 5 verse 10 will not transfer exactly for shots. Try it out and you will find a 2" off center shot at 5 will not become 4" at 10. Yes there are many who will run all the geometric math numbers to prove something on paper, but they just don't transfer 1 for 1 in real life shooting. I do shoot 1/2 size targets and full size, but prefer the full size for practice. Also can someone link where 1/2 size are less expensive than full size? Thanks!

It’s probably not twist rate. I’ve read recently someone on Enos measured a pulled bullet and found it .354. Undersized bullets for a barrel can cause tumbling. I would suspect Federal is having a QC issue here. Pull some bullets and check sizes. It should be at least .355.

Maybe, so far my son's SP01 with the Cajon roll pin hasn't worn out yet. But he's now more cognizant of the dry fire issue.

My most consistent 223 die is the Redding full length only die; it just doesn't neck size. I use the Dillon 223 die when volume sizing and trimming on my 1050. Here's a technique I found to help figuring out where the sizing issues are happening; gage check the brass after sizing, trimming and cleaning. Then test again after loading. If you find after loading the number of failures increases then the issues is in the powder drop, seating and crimping part of the process. With bottle neck cartridges it is easy to slightly deform the neck and shoulder during this part.

To load a 147 it has to be deeper even at your OAL it probably bulges the brass a bit. It appears your new barrel has a right at spec chamber, so combine slight bulging, some carbon or range grit and presto stuck cartridge. I have guns whose chambers have the very same issue, factory loads well FMJ 147 reloads don’t even though they “plunk.” I think the answer is for you to either use the old barrel or switch to 124s.

This ^^^

Yes, this measures the space from shoulder to base and not the OAL. OAL is adjusted by trimming after sizing. I personally decap, size and trim in one pass using a 1050 and the Dillon trimmer. I do have a significantly slower process when I am loading "precision" 223. Sort head stamps, full body and neck size, hand trim, trickle powder... a pain in the rear, but precise. After thousands of 223 range brass reloading I found two things, the sizing step is the most critical for head space and when dropping the powder with the Dillon measure it can bump the neck if not adjusted properly and therefore distort the shoulder causing a failed gage check. Now the only failures I have are due to damaged rims. Oh, I finish load 223 on a dedicated 550 with floating bullet seating die and the head locked in place. I also use the JP Enterprises gage for 223. Have fun, reloading is a hobby in itself. Sadly (or not) I spend more time reloading than shooting; it takes significantly less time time to shoot a couple of hundred rounds than to reload them. I have to point one thing out, for rifle brass make sure you are inspecting for possible brass issues that may cause a failure. I have found PMC reloads about 3 times before showing issues. It seems to be rather thin brass.

Tuna The SP01 retains the firing pin with a roll pin about 1/2 way down the channel. If you search the web you will find wearing through the roll pin is a really common problem, especially when dry firing without a snap cap to stop the FP from hitting the roll pin. The Shadow 2 and other competition models don’t have the roll pin. BTW, I know this because the very same thing happened to my son with his SP01 at a competition. But the FP didn’t break it jammed full forward against because of the roll pin. Here’s a pic of the damaged roll pin.

It’s probably not the lube. I reload a lot of 223 all mixed brass and there was a learning curve compared to pistol. Just remember this, there’s a difference brass thickness and volume between head stamps. Chooses the offender and set up for that one with all stations full. Make sure you powder drop is not pressing against the neck. Set it just so it reaches full extension for powder drop. There’s enough force there to push on distort the neck and shoulder, which often causes issues with head spacing especially with the softer/thinner brass. In my process I decap, size, trim and then clean the brass in a wet tumbler. Yes I make sure the brass is clean of mud and debris before lubing.

Did the retaining roll pin break or have a notch worn in it? Also do you dry fire without a snap cap? Because of the retaining roll pin design dry firing without a snap cap will repeatedly drive the firing pin into the retaining pin and cause damage to one or both. Remember the gun was not originally developed for competition and the massive amount of round and trigger pulls being done. Replace both pins and use snap caps, not just a dummy primerless round. Should fix the wear.

It’s no big deal, except for a little trick to install the sear spring. Cut a piece cotton swab stick (-the swab) the width off the sear and put the spring in with the swab. Then line up the sear in the cage and insert the pin and push the swab stick out the other side. Done! After installing sear cage combo back in the gun with the safety, it’s simply tightening the adjust screw down until the hammer won’t drop with safety on. Remove the screw, lock tite it and reinstall to same adjustment. Do not put safety on then pull a DA. It damages the safety lobe. The hardest part if you installed the race hammer, the disconnector pin only goes in and out one way and it’s really tight.

Cut off the lanyard loop and file then sand end smooth. Simple solution.

Years ago he did barrel work for me. He can do it just give him a call. https://www.jandlgunsmithing.com/about

If you don’t shoot much none of the guns will break, however many USPSA people shoots literally 50k a year not to mention the many dry fire trigger pulls. I have broken two trigger return springs and worn out at least three hammer springs. For the CZ carry extra parts as other mentioned. Oh and Kimber 1911s do break, you just don’t shoot it enough!

rbx If you don't have a roll pin punch of the appropriate size and ability to use it, then just take the gun to you local smith and have them remove the pin, tap off the sight and then reinstall the pin. It's not hard. If you want to fill the slot where the sight was then, as previously stated, cut it off and file it smooth. Personally I would not do that with the sight on the gun because the chances of making additional marks is pretty high. I just removed the fiber and let the front post. Never see it while shooting or dry fire. BTW if you're not mechanically inclined then you had better find someone locally who can fix your gun when it breaks, because it will. Common failure include trigger return spring, which is really fun to replace.

This will get you to B class, and if you're really naturally gifted maybe into A. Steve Anderson says it best, "learn to shoot the targets and then do everything else sooner." Don't randomly work on stuff, focus on the basics of gun handling, reloading, movement, target transitions and come up with a plan to emphasize your weakness. The basics of the game have to be subconscious; which means if you have to think about it when running the stage you don't have it burned in. If you need a program and are willing to spend a couple of extra $ then join Casey Reed or Practical Shooting Training Group. Casey Reed provides a daily discipline dry-fire schedule and PSTG will give access to the little things top shooters train. Also take a class from a good USPSA shooter, Ben Stoeger, Todd Jarrett, Steve Anderson, JJ, Tim Herron, Charlie Perez to name a few. It will consume you!

The large frame Tanfoglios typically can swap slides with zero issues (I have a 40 and 9 for my Stock 2). The 40 mags might work, never tried it, with 9 but don't count on it. The real problem is availability, there just aren't any right now.

This may be the problem, but probably is the process. Here's what I recommend as a process: 1. Dry tumble brass if cleaning is needed 2.Lube, size, decap and check OAL of brass (I trim to 1.75) (Maybe chamfer neck if you think it's needed). The point of this step is to remove the spent primer while the brass is 100% dry. When wet tumbling, even with drier, the primer pocket can and some will not fully dry and get some corrosion in them. 3. Clean the brass and fully dry it. 4. Reload it. 5. Gauge check all for correct head space. What is probably happening is your primers are becoming contaminated with something is the pocket while being seated. If you want to stay with your current process inspection of all the brass prior to reloaded is recommended. Make sure the pocket, flash holes and inside the brass are free of contamination, water, lube or anything. Unless you have bad powder, while possible is doubtful, your process is causing the issue. As of this text I've loaded about 5K 223/5.56 without one firing failure and 10s of thousands of pistol. The answer is always in the process.