Stickman301

10gr AA#7 with Blue Bullet 125gr TC @ 1.1240”. 170PF our of 5” SV Hybrid barrel with 4 popple holes. Also tried 3N38. At 170PF, both shoot and feel exactly the same. AA#7 is dirtier but it’s easier to load, cheaper, less spillage and easier to get.

I load 3.0gr Clays with Blue Bullet 147gr FN at 1.145”. 131PF out of my X5. Soft and clean.

No I didn't. Didn't have any issues. Used all Dillon dies that came on the 1050.

Never had any issues.

I didn't have any issues but I only loaded about 200-300 of those rounds.

I have shot both of these with a 124 JHP. The 3N38 is a little softer and flatter but a pain in the ass to load. AA#7 is closer to HS6 when running a 124 bullet. 9.9gr AA7.....124gr PD JHP.....1.180".....WSP 8.9gr 3N38....124gr PD JHP....1.190".....WSP.....compressed load Tried in 2 different guns: 5" KKM barrel with 3 holes 4.5" SV Hybrid barrel with 2 holes Hope this helps.

I have owned 2 of them. Probably the best new open gun you can get for under $4k. They don't do any of the new designs like stroking and whatnot. Its a great gun to get started in the 2011 open world before you decide on a top of the line gun, Akai, etc.

3.2gr VV310 under an RMR 147gr bullet at 1.145". WSP and mixed brass. 130pf out of a Glock 34 with S3F barrel. It was super soft and clean. My VV310 and Titegroup loads were the same. VV310 was just cleaner and cooler. I have a buddy that has shot thousands of rounds with 2.8gr VV310 under an Xtreme 165gr bullet. He has never had any issues.

Did some load testing with different powders see below to help you find a comparable starting point in your gun. Black Dog Gun Works 2011 open gun 5" slide with 3 popple holes, KKM barrel All around 170pf. Mixed head stamp. WSP. 124gr MG JHP. 7.0gr WAC @ 1.165" 7.5gr Silhouette @ 1.165" 7.9gr HS6 @ 1.165" 8.9gr VV 3n38 @ 1.190" 9.9gr AA#7 @ 1.180" WAC- snappy but easy to load Silhouette- meters great, shoots about the same as WAC HS6- easy to load, dirty, feels same as WAC but dot wiggles VV 3n38- shoots great, full case, about 1mm of case left when loaded AA#7- easy to load, 3/4 full case, shoots about the same as 3n38, dirty

I have Citi so that is perfect. I just need it to buy from places that have card issues but super good prices. Or I might just switch to RMR since everyone has said good things about them.

So my info was stolen and I received a new card. The first 3 purchases with the new card were with 2 online places I've used all the time. The third was the bullet company. Ive spoken with several local people who all had it happen. The card was a debit card. I will look into the one use CC number. I really like the bullets and would like to purchase them from the company.

I was checking those out and the RMRs but haven't spoken to anyone who used them yet. Good to know.

Does anyone know of a place that sells 9mm 124gr JHPs for a pretty good price? Ive bought from PD and MG and Im tired of having my card info stolen. Its happened 3 times and I just don't want to deal with it anymore.

Ran HS6 for awhile. 8.0gr under a PD 124 JHP at 1.165" for 170pf. I have tried WAC, HS6, and Silhouette. When loaded to the same PF they all feel about the same. HS6 might be a tad softer but the dot wiggles. WAC and Silhouette run cleaner and the dot goes straight up and down. 7.0gr WAC = 7.5gr Silhouette = 8.0gr HS6

Email Tiffany at PT. She will return your email and get your order going that same day. Roughly two weeks to get it. No issues.

I think I found the problem. There is only one screw that holds the holster in place on the ball. There is another place for a screw and its missing.

I load Everglades 147 plated with Titegroup then did some testing with VV310. The load data for VV310 is the same as Titegroup. Same PF and fps. 3.2gr VV310 @ 1.150 with Everglades 147gr plated - 129pf Glock 34 MOS with S3F barrel. My barrels seems to be slow compared to any other barrel. So start where you need to.

Believe me. I have tighten up everything. It works fine in my Ghost holster but the Racemaster comes loose in seconds. Ive tightened every screw.

I have a CK steel grip. It is super heavy. To the point I cannot run a DAA Racemaster holster because the weight causes the adjustments to instantly come loose. It does shoot nice though.

Lock your support hand wrist. Rotate your support hand away from you towards the ground until it won't go any further. That is locking your wrist. Setup a target about 5m away. Put up a dot (3" or so). Fire a round and mess with your grip until your grip tension makes the gun come back down to the same spot while minimizing the amount of muzzle rise. Then move the distance back after you are satisfied.

From the tabletop down about 4" is clear space except for a piece of metal that runs front to back in the middle. Other than that there is a ton of space to put some braces. The tabletop flexes (raises up) in the middle (sides). I would put another screw or bolt through there and that would help a ton. Another tabletop on the original one or completely replace it with heavier wood and it would be awesome. I plan on doing all of this after I move. Also, plan on spending an extra $100 for the stainless. Lowes was completely out of the black. Unless you can find it online or they have it miracously at the store.

Dry firing doesn't cost you anything besides time and energy. I would dry fire everything that doesn't "need" bullets. Draw, getting on target, target transition, mag changes, foot work, etc. Think of dry firing as free practice and live fire as validation for what you have been practicing. Bullets cost money so why not dry fire then shoot what you practiced. To answer your question: Yes, it helps tremendously.

No worries dude. I just used that video to show how he flicks the bottom of the gun away then back towards him. I had issues with mags sticking and just gave his technique a shot and it works every time. Just wanted to give you an option that didn't cost any money.

Haha that wasn't my point. My point was what he does to the gun so the mag drops free every time.

The bench itself is sturdy. The tabletop is the issue. It flexes because its not super thick/heavy and only held to the bench with 4 screws. The other issue is the loader needs to either be elevated or moved out from the edge of the bench. Otherwise the bottom of the handle (pivot point) will hit the front of the bench because there is no space for it to go. I did a quick fix because I am moving soon. I just bolted a piece of wood to the tabletop and made an overhang. I then stacked boxes of bullets on that side of the tabletop to help with the flex. After I move I will screw the tabletop down more and possibly put another tabletop on top of it. The entire bench is made of thin metal so a brace would help. See below for pics.