LoSTViKiNG

Thanks for your replys/opinions! Problem is, that the tumbler cannot be easily disasselbled. Springs are glued in with hot glue, the motor isn't accessible from below. Only thing I can do is watch it if it's still sufficient, of not, of if it deteriorates further, dump it and get a new one...

The tumbler is designed to hold up to 1000 .38 special cases so 1000 9mm shouldn't present a problem. That's one reason why I bought mine. I like being able to tumble a lot of brass at once. And, as I said: I did not change anything within the last 5 years. Tumbled at about 100k cases 9mm in batches of 1000pcs. Cleaning was better with the earlier behaviour, the donut type radial cascading thingy... Problem is, that the tumbler cannot be easily disassembled, as the springs are fixed with hot glue and the case is closed at the bottom. Otherwise I would check the excentric weight for proper fit,etc.

Hi, I am using a Lyman 2500 Pro Magnum Tumbler now for 5 years. Recently I noticed, that the way, the cases and the media moves in the bowl during operation has changed: All the years it showed a motion which could be decribed as follows: cases are transported from the edge to the center on a radial path, dive and sort of rotate back to the outside of the bowl to emerge to the surface, then going back towards the center. I have made a movie years ago, here is the link: I was quite happy the way it was, I was satisfied with the polishing/cleaning perfomance. Now, after the last exchange of the media, the pattern suddenly changed: It's now less of the donut-style motion described above, but more of a clockwise circular motion. Here is a video link: Some more information: Media is industrial grade corncob , before and after the very same type: Roesler Super Velat SV 16N. Quantity of media charge has not changed, I always use a kitchen scales. I always tumble 1000pcs 9mm at a time, hasn't changed either. I have checked the tumbler, if any of the springs came loose or if there is any other noticable damage: none visible. Have you observed a similar behaviour with your Lyman 2500 Pro Magnum? What's the motion like in yours? Thank you for your thougts

Yes, the manual is sort of intimidating. I read through it as it is advised but I wouldn't have needed to read it in order to make the device work. If you can operate a 1050 (including setup/cleaning/maintainance), use your common sense and go for it. It took me at about 10 minutes to make the collator work with my type of bullets, however, I didn't need the manual for that, others might. Bottom line: It is a great device, not exactly cheap, but very handy, easy to use and reliable.

I have a 1050 and I am using the Redding Competition seater die. Absolutely recommendable!!! Controlling the seating depth is easy now, it was a PITA before. And, as a side effect: Bullets are now seated absolutely straigt. I load ARES bullets (http://www.ares-gun.sk/) which were not seated straight with the original Dillon die, resulting in a sort of bellying-out-effect and thus rounds which were out of spec (didn't fit the gauge). These probs are now all gone! Another good thing is the Micrometer Powderbar from Uniquetek (http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1231) With these two upgrades I can now set the press from one to another "recipe" without any hassle and measuring (I check before loading, of course) as the scales are very accurate.

There is something which happens now and then and is very annoying. As it happened three times today during loading 400 rounds, I thought I ought to ask for your advice: One case gets stuck in the funneled part of the case feeder which is causing a massive jam. As I have plenty of things to check while loading, my eyes normally aren't up there and I don't notice the problem until the cases are trippig on my head. I tried to polish the plastic to make it more slick --> bad idea :-P Any mods you could recommend to cure the problem? EDIT: typo

If the primers are not advancing properly, try to place the RF 100 on a soft surface (felt, etc.) instead of a hard (e.g. wooden) one. This helped really a lot! I always thought, the harder the surface the better but that's not true! If you have probs with primers "dancing" on the spot, give it a try!

Here is something from the "little things I've noticed" section :-) The plastic tab that holds the cases in place in the priming station is pretty worn resulting in more-than-usual mis-primed cases. As it is always a bit cumbersome and expensive to order parts from dillon I was looking for another solution than replacing the tab. The edge of the tab that has contact with the case had an indentation. This can be easily corrected with a fine file. Use the file affixed in a vise, moving the tab instead of the other way round. This guarantees a flat and even edge of the tab. Next problem was, that the screw left a dent in the tab, therefore the tab always moved back to its initial position while being screwed down, instead of the new, correct position (which is now different as I filed off a few tenth of a mm. Solution was to use a relativly large washer (which I also filed off to avoid contact with the frame of the machine) between the tab and the screw. EDIT: Added two pictures. Sorry for the blur, my cell can't do any better :-P

This is a suggestion for Dillon: Please consider adding a few inches of that tube to your spare parts kit for the 1050. Would make things much easier and adds virtually no costs. I was shopping around here extensivly and DID NOT find an appropriate (inside- + outside diameter + material) tube. Could anyone of you who has such a tube/hose, probably more than needed for our purpouse, send me a few inches? A normal envelope and plain old surface mail would be sufficient (according to usps.com/ postage would be USD 2.86). I can offer paypal, or, if preferred, to send the money via snail mail. Using the machine without this tiny part, as some of you suggested: Well, the engineers put it there for some reason, I guess. Operating the 1050 without it would be my last resort.

Well, I tried to get it here at "Forstinger" (which is our counterpart to AutoZone) but what they had to offer was way to large in diameter and of an entire different material than the original part. Could you please state the item number of what you bought at http://www.autozone.com ? I will then try to order it online from them (if they don't sell to rest-of-worldistan, I'll do it with http://www.shopanyamericanstore.com/. Thank you! P.s. (According to my measurements the outer diameter is approx. 6.3mm, the inner is 3mm)

I am looking for a replacement for my 10501: The rubber piece on the primer slide (#14990/Slide Roll Pin Sleeve) is alread heavily worn and needs to be replaced soon. I asked Dillon but the apparently don't have this part, here is their answer: "Go to an automobile parts store and get some 1/8 inch rubber vacuum tubing. That’s all it is." I did so, went to an automobile parts store but all the tubes they had were way unsuitable. Do you have a good source for such a tube? Please keep in mind that I don't live in the U.S., going to the next Walmart is therefore no option :-) Thanks for your help!

Thanks for your advice! I did that already, it didn't help this time. Maybe it saved me some hassle before... I took a .45 case which fits perfectly to the end of the rod which I filled with liquid lead to add weight. (I.e. basically the same as you suggested). I am thinking of a small rubber wheel (touching the rod) which spins as the rod goes down and a buzzer which produces a sound every time the wheel spins thus translating the optical to a acoustic signal.

Thanks for your reply. The pulling die seems to be a good alternative to the plastic hammer... I keep my press clean (vacuum cleaning after every use), disassembling, cleaning and greasing every ~10.000 rounds. I probably have to reduce this interval...

After approx. 30k rounds of flawless reloading, my 1050 developed a new habit which I didn't experience before: Today I was operating the machine as usual: I was, as usual, fully concentrated to check if the spent primer was ejected properly, if the next case has no obstruction or is Berdan, etc. (using my tiny mirror glued to the frame, see other thread), if the case is properly charged before seating the bullet. After a while I noticed that the primer follower rod still was in its up-postion (instead of being in a low position, corresponding to the number of rounds I already produced). I grabbed one of the rounds in the bin: No primer! (And there were many more...) :angry2: :angry2: So I disassebled the priming section, just to notice that a very small granule of whatever was lodged in the slot of the blue orifice and thus preventing the primers to make their way to the slider... Had to pull ~80 rounds which sucks BIG TIME! :angry2: :angry2: Re-assembled the machine, went on... And, after a couple of hundred rounds of normal operation, same thing again! And again I noticed much too late, had to pull another 50 rounds. And, to make things worse, I broke my RCBS kinetic hammer... And NO, I did NOT abuse the tool, it happened during normal operation. Does anyone of you (especially the gifted tinkerers) have an idea how one could construct a device to monitor, if the follower moved down while operating the handle? I can't watch the follower all the time, not can I quality check every round that drops into the bin... Apart from this I can just again emphasize that keeping the 1050 perfectly clean is of paramount importance for flawless operation (although I have no idea how the kernel made its way into my primer tube..). Thanks for listening! :-) EDIT: The dots in the picture is the spilled powder which was dispersed all over my desk and carpet, which happens if you pull ~120 rounds with no primer...

i found the same problems with my 1050 just recived it two weeks ago found out part of the problem was the primers were braking off in the 223 brass in the primer pockets when i torn them apart also if you tumble your brass the little pieces of media get in the primer slide and throw it off also the swager dosn't get it all the first time i run them threw again or take a reamer and touch them up a little bit midway makes a chamfer tool and you can by the part that will let you run it in a cordless drill i use it on my 308 and 3006 military brass hope this helps out i'm glad i'm not the only one having problems with there new 1050 still haven't got the plunger to feed the 223 brass in the shell plate right I have no experience with other than 9mm but what I have learned so far: a. The 1050 is a great machine but very sensitive :-) Even the smalles mis-adjustment can mess up everything. b. Keep trying to find a solution. As usual, there is one. It might take a while, especially for a novice, to find it. Don't settle for anything less than perfect.