ACree

ZZT, I believe you hit the nail on the head.... JEM slides and JEM frames are nice with plenty of material. Too many poorly spec'd slides out there....

I apologize for leaving that hanging without a more clear explanation. If everything else about the slide and frame were to spec, then additional thickness of the slide rails would be inconsequential. If everything else was to spec, your overall "stack" in measurement would have been closer to .850" or so if your slide rail width was .119 (which was never stated above, other than you said you needed to remove .010 from the slide rail to fit the first measurement you provided for your frame raceways as being .109). You stated that your vertical stack measurement was .8455". That measurement, along with the position of the slide stop pin in the frame, the location of the bottom of the frame raceway and the SSP, and the inner dimensions of the slide all add up together. Having reviewed the numbers again before replying, I would actually reject that slide. Here is why. The stacking tolerances within the slide, which have to allow room for the barrel to lock-up and rotate downward to unlock and engage the frame VIS and bed correctly, has a recommended value. Your slide measures right on that recommended value. If the bottom of the slide rails are .005 more than the .114 recommended value, then the -.005 amount has to come from somewhere else within the slide. Having that as a starting point of a build could cause you some headaches down the road.

That slide and frame should not go together with those measurements. Taking off .010 from the bottom of the slide will reduce the space that linked barrel has to properly function. You will likely have to reduce the bed and push back the VIS to get proper clearance between the barrel hood and the slide when cycling. I would suggest going with the STI slide for the STI frame and save the Caspian for another build. Andy

It can, but it depends on the stacking tolerances of the slide. If you have a large gage pin, even a .250 if that is the largest you have, grab it. Put your slide upside down in the vise and insert the gage pin so that is lays in the "bottom" of the slide where the slide lugs are located. Take a depth mic and tell me the measurement from the bottom of the slide rails to the gage pin (don't forget to add in the diameter of the gage pin).

You are seeing first-hand how various manufacturers have muddied the spec waters with changing the design to fit other components instead of sticking to one standard. STI cuts their frame raceways small because the make their slide rails are .110 +/-. I have an STI frame on hand that has raceways that are .111 as measured with a gage pin. Phoenix Trinity 2011 frames have frame raceways that are .115. JEM makes their frame raceways .117, but will go .115 or .114 if asked prior to machining. If you want to keep the STI frame, I would suggest you buy and STI slide. If you want to keep the Caspian slide, go with a JEM or PT frame. If you go with the JEM or PT frame you can address the bottom of the slide rails. Andy

Good advice! Always check with the ATF on those kind of questions.

What slide and frame? Knowing which manufacturers will help in determining the math. You are correct on the .114 minimum. I have used a keyseat-type cutter to adjust frame rails. Dave at Evolution Gun Works sells a really nice cutter that does an excellent job! Andy

I posted something in the Gunsmithing section that might get overlooked by some who could have some valuable information. Please check out the thread titled, "Witnessed RDS Mounting Failures" if you get a chance. THank you!

I am trying to explore some options for future red dot sight slide mounting. I am curious if you have seen any RDS mounts fail, whether it was screws shearing or anything that cause the optic to come loose. If you have seen a failure, I would be interested in what you thought the cause was as well. Thank you!

Check to make sure the case is not making contact with the underneath side of the ejector.

If the point of not cleaning is to avoid barrel and crown damage due to Autozone purchased solvents and rough treatment with a metal cleaning rod, then I can see the advantage for those who are in that group. However, a bit of bore solvent once in a while and some patches will have negligible negative effect if care is taken. Also, if you are cleaning the chamber with solvent, some amount of solvent will enter the barrel and should be removed with a patch or two. I cannot imagine how a patch with solvent is worse for a barrel than having a FMJ plow carbon fouling and junk that has been left over from thousands of fired rounds. If some believe that it is a wash between the two techniques, then I will clean the barrel once in a while.

Don't clean the barrel?

I believe Louu is correct, Back the over-travel screw out s bit and re-test.

If you do invest in some files, stay away from Nicholson files, they are junk. I have have decent luck with Grobet.

Why the change to 9 Major?

Barrels cleaned from the muzzle with uncoated, metal rods can cause a lot of damage. Rifles need a bore guide. Pistol barrels do not need a guide, but if you clean from the chamber end it is easy to guide the rod down the barrel and minimize bore contact and unwanted contact with the crown.

I would send the safeties back. There is no reason to "fix" new parts if they are not correct or to your liking. Andy

Friends should not let friends STI...

STI.... at least they are warranting their product. I think the gentlemen who said it was "normal" should not be in the position he is.

If the above suggestions aren't the cause, could possibly be the magazine is binding the trigger bow when pressure is being applied to the bottom of the magazine and pushing it in an odd direction.

A good friend of mine just used the solution to clean an anodized comp on a 22 pistol and it did not harm the anodizing. I am not sure about bare aluminum.

Just installed a SV Infinity trigger without any issues. Just do not get the model for the SV grip as it will not fit.

Good friend of mine had excellent results with getting lead out of a comp with an overnight soak in 50% peroxide and 50% vinegar.

I do not think the two are interchangeable.

I do not want to derail the original question with debating whether or not there is enough load on the strut to flex it to any measurable amount. I am looking for anyone who has had a positive, tangible gain in switching to titanium fire control parts. 2011BLDR, have you, or your customers, seen any tangible benefits compared to the steel FCP?