MJinPA

Welcome! Tons of great info and very knowledgeable members here. You can often find most answers to questions you have by doing a search. If not, post a new topic and it won’t take long for someone to chime in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep. And on the flipside, you're good to go at 179.999. Ideally, the shooter should make the RO's job easy and keep a mental limit closer to 170 as a max because, in my experience, most 180 calls are based on that fraction of a second where your gun just broke the plane and rarely involve a gun pointing way back at squadmates (although I have stared down a barrel once or twice!)

Like others have said, it’s really tough to tell in video but, based on my precise measurements, just as your coming past that wall you hit exactly 180.021 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve also read “Thinking Practical Shooting” which I thought was excellent. I have Ben’s dryfire and skills/drills books. Both are great for that purpose. I have all 3 Steve Anderson books. I use refinement and repetition for dry fire drills but got a lot out of “get to work”. There are a lot of drills in there too but reading it gave me a new perspective of thinking about how to get more points per second. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve read that the EVO grips have very consistent internal dimensions. Asked PT to share but only got “it’ll fit”. Anyone able to get a measurement? I’m planning to order the EVO or possibly the new aggressive cheely but thinking my STI frame is on the fat side at 1.078 and may lean toward whichever requires less material removal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah! I’m in PA and sometimes forget how F’d up CA laws are. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used to be at 5% with a egw U die for 9. I never sort brass by head stamp and don’t plan to. A couple of years ago I read a thread that recommended switching from hornady one shot to dillon’s lanolin based lube. I did and now my failure rate is less than 1%. Maybe 5 of 1000. I now make my own lanolin lube and it’s been working great for 10s of thousands of rounds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think many of the few that still shoot single stack are shooting minor (9 or 40). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can only speak to both Vortex scopes. They are red dot bright and I recall a vortex rep noting when the pst gen 2 came out that they share the same emitter. From my experience there is zero difference in their dots. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha! Didn’t see that before. I don’t have a clue what else it would be used for! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you shot the gen 2 back to back with the razor? I’ve done it a few times and found the gap to be very small. I get that the razor is more robust, made in Japan vs Philippines, better glass on paper etc but for the OPs purpose and budget the pst gen 2 is pretty darn close to what some consider the gold standard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking forward to the article. Where is Stuart? CZC, CGW other? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As others have said the only reason would be that you’re just starting and only have a gun in 45. More bullets is always better in this game. I recently switched to limited from production (shooting a a 2011 in 40) and can’t think of a match that had a stage where I didn’t plan on going 18 or 20 before a reload. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How does the 380 plate work and is it worth the extra step? I thought they were the same diameter as 9. I hate when one slips by but find it when sizing 99% of the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe one of these days I’ll put an 8lb spring in my CZ to see if it’s still Federal or bust. Also, if anyone wants to send me one case of each brand, I’ll be happy to test and attach a detailed report to this post Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Amazon! This is what I use to make case lube. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGSQ188/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sP6GCbF0ABWGX Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take a look at the Vortex pst gen 2 1-6. They retail for $600. I have the razor 1-6 and a friend has the pst. Both have the same daylight bright red dot on 1x, great eye box etc. Besides the razor costing 2x as much and having slighter better glass quality there are very little differences shooting them back to back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As a side note...they seam more uniform in shape and and feel smoother when seating compared to some others. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes! Great info. Thanks for sharing this. Although I would avoid them in the past I’ve never had a problem with light spring setups and CCIs. I guess long held beliefs are hard to change. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. Sucks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I heard recently that they are not as hard as they once were and are easier to set off. Anyone have insight on whether or not this is true? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Doesn’t the 1100 have a different frame? I think it’s supposed to be beefier in some areas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ordered some CCI spp and it was a few dollars cheaper than I normally pay locally. I wish the cabelas sale on s&b would come back around! $22/k shipped last year Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I installed the CGW reach reduction kit. I have average size hands and the DA reach is a little further than I liked. The shorter reset and DA travel is a really nice bonus. Also installed their 11.5 hammer spring which brought the DA pull down to about 6lbs and the SA to 2.5. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure about the elf tactical but their 3gun and match triggers have set screws that need to be cranked down pretty tight then locked in with the lock screws. From their FAQ....”Q: After installing my Elf Trigger I’m getting intermittent primer strikes that look like the firing pin is barely tapping the primer and will not ignite the round. A: 99% of the time this issue is caused by incorrect installation. Whether anti-walk pins are used or not, the set screws on the inside of the trigger body must be firmly seated against your receiver floor. It is absolutely critical that these screws are seated firmly. Turn one side until it’s barely snug then tighten the other side and alternate so pressure is evenly distributed. We now include a steel floor plate to protect your receiver – optional in aluminum receivers but required for polymer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk