perttime

The metal stands that we have look much like the drawing in the OP. The sticks we use must be about 1x1", and the metal is chosen to give a slightly loose fit. One problem is that sooner or later somebody is going to dent the metal with a bullet, making it hard or impossible to remove or insert the sticks.

Weight is one, if you want weight. Generally good triggers - or it is relatively easy to get a good trigger. Lots of tuning parts available. Many like the grip ... I actually prefer the Glock grip angle. And --- because it is 2011, and not some ugly newfangled plastic gun. There's big variety in Glock triggers. The one on my old Glock is pretty good. None of this really matters if you are going to a contest to give it a try or simply have a good time.

Let's see when it will actually be available.

What kind of competition? Do you expect to win? If your pistol meets whatever rules there might be, go and enjoy the competition. Using a gun that you are familiar with is an asset, even if the contest format isn't.

I used to have a Tikka M65A which is really a direct ancestor of this, with the aluminium bedding block and tube stock. This might be a good modern successor. Tikkas tend to shoot. If the handguard is soft, there's a plenty of options for replacing it.

I sometimes get confused between my ifs and whens. I visit all sorts of cool sites just because they are cool.

If I had any guns, I wouldn't tell everybody that I do. I would definitely not have a bumper sticker that implies I might have any. They would be in a safe that is out of sight, so that you have to look for it to find it. There would be a couple of Rottweilers and a jumpy sheepdog in the house. In the safe, they would quite likely be in bags or rugs. If stuff is wet when I get home from the range, I would make sure that only dry items go into the safe.

For many Tikka is the brand to go to when they want a rifle that is guaranteed accurate but doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Many just don't like the simple stocks, and put them in any one of the many aftermarket options. Now, Tikka has a model with a modular chassis on the way. http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2016/06/15/new-tikka-unveiled-t3x-tac-a1/ Not sure when it will be available. Finnish shops seem to expect it in a couple of months. Sako - Tikka should have it at Shot Show, in about 2 weeks.

It is most likely OK if it hasn't seen extreme temperature changes or very high humidity ... but yep, smell it: powder that has "gone bad" gets a pretty distinctive odor.

I think: - both eyes are open and use the same eye that you always use for aiming. - don't compensate for jerking. Eliminate it. Take some time, dry fire and live fire until you stop jerking. Many find it easier to shoot one-handed with the pistol slightly canted. No, not a gangsta cant. Just a natural position with arm extended. Something like 20 degrees or less.

I'm sure this is THE place on the interwebs for learning things for IPSC. Most here do USPSA which is close enough. Talking to people at practice and matches can be a great help. I didn't have internet when I started learning, so Brian's book was a major source. The gear he used at that time is a bit outdated now - but the ideas are still relevant.

There's other forums that take donations. The rest live on advertising and sponsorships.

Can't legally carry where I live but... wouldn't a Small-Of-Back holster work well with the bulk of a 2011?

There's always the Weaver Stance... But seriously, good technique and enough strength can minimize muzzle flip. For mere mortals like me, there's a point where trying to minimize gun movement results in worse hits and slower speed.

The reaction (recoil) happens about where the barrel of the gun is. You grip the gun lower than that. So, you have levers working there. That is one reason why people grip as high as possible. That just isn't high enough to eliminate muzzle flip on conventional handguns.

Cannot do it with revolvers. So, I decided not to do it with anything else either.

Another vote for some more barrel on the 8 round Redhawk. The 4 (or 4.2) inches of the regular GP100 should be about right. I noticed the .44 GP100 some days ago, and was wishing for a little more barrel there too.

Love my 19 and have competed with it.... If competition use is main priority, the 17 has the edge. As you said, longer sight radius and a couple of more rounds. The balance is probably more forgiving too. You could try competing with the 19 and see how it goes, before committing.

I saw mentions that the X-frame cylinder diameter is 'nearly 2″', and measurements at about 1.92". There was an N frame measurement showing 1.71".

Must have been the rule about figuring out a way to let the guy compete even if he only had one mag...

I've seen a guy who only had one magazine allowed to do that in a contest. The RO required him to bring the mag behind his hip before ejection and insertion. Don't remember what level that contest was.

What would happen to the cost if there was suddenly a demand for a few dozen, or a few hundred, of them?

The way the barrel was done looks ... interesting. Anyone with metal working skills, is that hard to do? That's an X-frame?

Same thing with N340 and 3N37 - out of my old totally stock SDB. Occasionally, I see a 0.1 grain difference, If I start with an almost full measure and let it go almost empty.

Who cares if a revolver is competitive in Open or not. A revolver with optics and comp/ports is just too cool not to shoot...