arkadi

You could have a guide rod channel and barrel lug machined (for clearance), and a reverse plug installed, as per discussion somewhere above. Just never got to that point. If I really-really need the barrel removed - due to a cracked comp for example - I use propane torch to kill Loctite and unscrew the comp. I also have a set screw in the cone. Speculation: Glock guys who just tighten down a set screw never really shoot that much and/or they shoot plinking ammo. Until barrel thread and comp threads are matched exceptionally well, each shot will damage the threads. I wouldn't look into Glock Open guns as an example to model my gunsmith practices on. There is a thread about Open Glocks here on BE. Anyway, I now have more Open 2011 than Open CZs.

Are you searching for looks or function? If looks are important, then making comp parallel to the slide on CZ is not trivial. It is not parallel on the photos you posted. IMO it would look as a chunk of metal out of place, in person. Also, it weight must be supported by something during recoil - either by cone or guide rod or both. As for function, the best comps are compact and light. A light comp will work for major and minor.

The top gun is Binary Eng comp with custom steel conversion cone. The bottom gun is a custom steel comp modeled after Binary Eng's comp with cone as one piece. The barrel is original SP-01 barrel threaded 1/2" - 28. I cannot remove barrel from slide as both comps are glued on. I clean it in place. CZ rarely needs cleaning.

@ltdmstr, JFYI, the magwell could be a plain steel one . I asked SVI for steel magwell twice, not stainless, yet I got both of them shiny and pretty like on the MikeyScuba photo.

@MikeyScuba @Gene_WI could you please post an up-close photo of slide stop (installed)? Does it have a dimple drilled for the plunger? SVI slide stop have a slope cut where plunger rests comfortably preventing it from bumping up. Yet it makes the lever not parallel to lower line of frame cut-out. From the picture you posted it looks like I just described. I wonder if that's how it is intended. I have a custom gun built with SVI small parts. Not sure - should I leave it as is unmodified, or should I drill it, but then I'd need to file it too to not contact the slide. Did you asked for specific functionality to be able to remove slide stop without bringing slide back to disassembly notch? (Useful if gun is locked up hard)

Just curious to see the quality and finish of the work.

Thank you for the tip! Could you please post a picture of the slide where it was stroked? I stroked Stock II 10mm to resolve feeding issues - not enough space-time for mag to feed next round. Out of the box the factory recoil spring was coil-binding. Not sure what they think about at the factory.

G.F.L. maybe? Its Fiocchi. Half of my brass is GFL. Loads good on 1050.

Not only because you'll endangering yourself and others - your mechanical practice will be counterproductive. Consider Zen of Driving is close to Zen of Shooting. Consider Attention and Error Games instead.

Terrible idea.

@Rusl, my advise is to use CZC Czechmate mount and a modern red-dot such as RTS2 or DPP. Shadow is a light gun. The bulk you'll get on the side with sideway mount will take that advantage off by creating noticeable asymmetry in recoil. Beware, that once you go with a particular drill pattern - CZ, Tanfoglio, or 2011 - you cannot go back. Anyway, I have a Quinn mount available for sale in Classifieds. It will clear the slide by 1/5" and there will be a trivial glass offset to the right. While 1/5" could be perceived as too much, yet it will provide some options for slide racker installation that is not flush with the slide. Sorry, I cannot properly overlay it on top of a Shadow that already have optics attached. https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/271476-wts-quinn-c-more-slideride-mount-for-2011-gogun-pedal/

What is the life expectancy of the trigger system?

The observable vertical space of RTS2 glass is around 6cm at target distance of 1m, holding the gun at arms length. Assuming the dot starts in the middle of the glass, that results >>> math.degrees(math.atan2(3, 100)) 1.7183580016554572 1.72 degree of muzzle flip before dot goes out of the glass. (Pardon the naive math)

To pass SAAMI proof test(s), perhaps? Are there any?

Before you start buying new guns, and Shadow 2 grip is fairly small BTW, may I suggest that a competent action shooter will examine your grip in-person once again? By reproducing your grip exactly like it is photographed I'd say that's a flimsy grip, no surprise the gun shifts a lot. It seems to me, that you're holding the gun in-front and side-to-side instead of working front to back with the strong hand.I bet, is that if you stay in you stationary shooting position holding the gun with just one hand and someone would rack the slide - it would just slip from your grip. You might want to start by getting the feeling of total control with strong hand only. LOK Palm Swell Boggies and original SP-01 Shadow rubber grips are excellent choice. I run both of them on CZ custom open guns; long fingers. The biggest grips are of the original CZ TS and Stock II / III large frame wood grips. You may want to shoot them first before reaching conclusion.

I'd say the accuracy is the same yet polygonal barrel POI is more consistent across different kind of reloaded and factory ammo to the point I make no sights adjustment to accommodate them at all. I have Stock III with two barrels of both types of rifling. I believe making polygonal barrels requires big expensive machines.

Stock I is 9mm only, no? 9x19, 9x21 are the only offerings in European Tanfoglio catalogue.

Stock 2 in 10mm Auto. No rail though.

I use brass brush.

Never got to the point to make a Major gun out of it, yet shooting hotter Minor loads solved ejection problems with AlexMount.

The long stick Tanfoglio sold me some 2-3 years ago has no spacer plate while being marked 9mm. It doesn't work with FKK9-13 kit. I ran it with Grams spring and stock follower at 170mm for 26-rounds reloadable with no issues, IIRC. It will hold 25 rounds of 38 Super too. FKK38-13 could be the right kit for such tube.

@yigal do they test Open guns with Major ammunition?

I shot a number of 9 Open and 40 cal BUL guns. I was not impressed. It could be that out of the box they pale side-by-side with well running SVI and STI guns but I'm not buying. In case you decide on metal grip - you absolutely must handle one in-person first. It's too rounded - feels narrow, and slippery; the machining is about looks not function. Totally different style than modern 2011 grip. The grip itself is a two-piece part. Not like SVI grip where trigger guard is a separate part, but there are right and left pieces. They are well matched together thought.

It could be a weak sear spring.