tomjerry1

I have done this numerous times, the hammer will only drop to the 1/4 notch while vigorously racking the slide holding the pistol in a downward fashion.

Well, it's an undersize sear pin hole, by about .005". Not sure how hard the frame is? Not trying to be to cheap, not aware of any good smiths I would let do the job in my area, and I could always send off to a reputable smith. This is not an expensive pistol by any means, just not worth dumping a lot into it. The trigger pull was about 9#, had another trigger and sear of decent quality, so I installed them. Well, I have the trigger pull down to 3.5#, and when I let rack the slide quickly, the hammer will drop to the 1/4 stop. There is a sharp edge on the hammer hooks, and sear is honed correctly(I would say). I just feel that the small amount of play from the sear pin dia., to correct sear hole dia., it lets the sear release from the hammer hooks?????

What would be the best way to enlarge an existing hole in a frame? drilling, reaming? Approx .005"

I'm waiting for my XDM to return from the smith, I jumped out on a limb when I saw one in stock at the store, and bought it. My friend uses a Venom, but 3moa, the 6moa is nicer. Can't wait to get it on the pistol. I use Vortex on my rifles and am very happy with their performance, so I wasn't to concerned.

Having my slide machined to accept a red dot, thinking about a Vortex Venom 6moa, any experiences?

thanks, finally got a reply from DAA, said the same.

Ditto on dogtired, you can sand the grips thin and then cover with skateboard tape, I've seen this with a lot of the older shooters. There is not a lot for the Pro Match out there, maybe Para stuff. I have been shooting a Pro Match for 5 years, you are pretty much on your own. Best thing to happen to the RIA was MBX, they actually work without a hammer.

The specs from DAA on the PDR PRO 2 say that the XDM 5.25 is an option, but not the XDM 4.5? Anyone know why the 4.5 wouldn't fit the 5.25 PDR PRO 2?

I use 10.1 gr AA#7, HAP 125 .356 1.3 oal, 5" KKM barrel, no popples and get 1370 fps Works great

That is what will probably happen, wanting to exhaust all other possibilities before breaking out the drill press.

So there are oversized pins, but no undersized sears holes? I guess that's what to be expected from the lower priced 1911s.

Are there different diameters of holes in sears? I am wanting to change the trigger and sear on a 1911, and the sear pin diameter is .105" and the hole diameter in the sear is .110"? The best fix would be to find a sears with correct diameter hole to fit the sear pin? but I haven't found a sear that would work. I am not ready to start drilling the frame for a larger pin.

I'm using a 38 S/SC, love it.

DAA, had to change spacers(included) and use the belt sander a little.

I put one on my limited gun, and have since removed it. My hands are small, and found it hard to reach, so I took it off. Now that I am shooting Open, I decided to give it a try again, but this time I had a tab welded to the slide stop, and it is much closer, and I like it. I think it is not so much control of the gun, but getting the same grip, the tab helps with that. Am thinking of doing the same thing to my limited gun.

If a 1911 has been barreled to a 40cal, would it be feasible to barrel to 9 mm?

Double checked, plenty of material left over, thanks

I'll have to measure that, seems like the lip will be very thin

Thank you for the response, time for the torch!

Anyone had any luck drilling a mag release for a mag extension? I can not find one for a Caspian?

I am trying to get the correct length reverse plug, the one that is in my pistol is 1.55" OAL, the collar is .332" and the remaining body is 1.218". I purchased a plug for a government model, and it is to long, 1.68" long. Help please.

The 1911, you'll have to fit it to you pistol.

Sarge is right, SC feeds better(although mine works fine with Super), and I can get 1 more round per mag with SC. The cost for new brass is only 10.00 difference between SC and S, so not a big deal, and range brass is really no savings. I found that S brass has slightly more capacity than SC, so I use my SC load in the S.

Yep, they work no problem, no worries.

What ever happened to your project