LeviSS

I installed the Henning magwell on a Limited and am having trouble with it loosening up and sliding forward when shooting. I had the problem, then took it off, cleaned the screw and threaded hole with rubbing alcohol, used blue LOC tite and tightened the screw as tight as I could get it. I let it set overnight. The next day it was loose and had slid forward within 50 rounds, locking the mag with the Henning IPSC base pad into the gun because of the set screw. The magwell slides into the frame with little to no effort. For now, I took a drywall screw anchor and cut it to fit the hole in the frame as an improvised bushing. This helps keep it from sliding forward as much, but it still slides forward enough to leave a ledge on the front of the frame magwell to hook a magazine in and stop it dead in its tracks. I guess I could file on the frame some to eliminate this. I would use red LOC tite, but I'm afraid I won't be able to get it off if I ever need to. Is this the case? Any advice to keep the magwell where I want it?

No one knows the exact sizes required? If I can get by with just buying a punch or two, I'd rather do that than buy the set.

So are they standard sizes? CZ is all metric.

I have a few punches for my CZ. I was wondering if I need any others to tear down a Tanfo. I have: -Starter punch -2mm pin punch -3mm pin punch -2mm roll pin punch -3mm roll pin punch -Assorted standard size pin punches What else is required?

I found out that I better loc-tite the magwell screw yesterday during practice. The magwell loosened some and slid forward, locking my magazine into the gun. I had to lock the slide back and use a casing to shove it out from the top. This was with the Henning IPSC pad. The set screw on the pad wedged in the magwell, locking it up. I thought I'd like the shorter mag for a reload, but I don't like the set screw design and it's barely long enough to get a good "seat" on the mag during reloads. I much prefer the Henning limited base pads, even for reloads.

They didn't say that, but it seems every pistol they announce comes late.

They just announced delays on FB...Late April now. Why am I not surprised?

Why not a Limited Pro?

Just as an update...The Henning magwell is much better. Blends pretty good, good enough for me anyway, and it does away with stupid cut out that the factory has on the front.

I think the Shadow is the one to get. I believe the SP-01's can't be milled as deep to get the optic lower because of the firing pin block. You'll have to decock at the LAMR, so you might look I to what that entails. Weight shouldn't be a problem unless you go overboard. Nothing will be Production legal if you mill the slide. If you want to go back and forth, you'll have to find an optics ready model, and I don't believe CZ offers any...Or use a dovetail mount, but that puts the optic pretty high as far as I can tell.

17rd Mec Gar

I've tried Ghosts and Racers for bullets forward. I much prefer the Racers.

Where did you get those bolts with the flattened heads? I like those.

I weld my own. 1.5" angle iron for the "H", 1x2" square tube for the upright holders. Drill a hole in the upright holders and either tap it or weld a nut over it to use a bolt to hold the upright furring strips. They're easy to build if you have access to the tools.

Yeah...It's already getting beat up quite a bit. I'm sure I'll get over the newness soon enough. This thing is definitely harder to reload than my CZ. With the SP-01, if you got it in the "magwell" at all it would go in. This thing has a hitch in it. If the mag is a little off front to back or side to side it gets locked up. I'm sure it's a training issue and I'll get used to it, but it is kinda annoying to have slower (or at least on par) reload with a gun with a real magwell.

Does the Henning magwell blend better than the factory magwell? The factory one leaves little ledges around the edges and gives the front lip just enough to hang up on. Can the grip opening be filed on to blend better with the magwell? Will it wreck the finish? How do you do it?

Howard Leight Impact

I had that problem when I first got my Dillon. I did everything I could think of to seat the primers deeper. My CZ had been flawless before, so I gave up and called Dillon. After all the troubleshooting, they didn't know what was wrong either but said it might be the primer seater was out of spec. They sent me a new one for free. Since then it's been perfect.

Please let me know when you do. It's not a huge deal, it just gets annoying after dry firing a bunch. I tried the EGD grips. They are much better than the wooden grips. I don't mind the thinness, but I wish they had a little palm swell. They are really flat. I think I'll try Hennings next and see what I think. I'm hoping Lok comes out with some that will fit soon.

One thing that bugs me is the left hand side extended safety is sharp on the bottom and digs into my support hand thumb. Will it take the finish off and look terrible if I filed the edges of the safety round?

Thanks guys. I just loaded a few more at 1.130. Hopefully I'll try them tonight or this weekend.

Spoke too soon. They won't fit in the mags loaded to 1.190. What do you guys load to?

I just set up my dies for .40S&W this evening. After doing the plunk and spin test, I determined that I could load as long as 1.190. Then I got to wondering if I want to load that long or go with the loading manuals 1.125? I know 2011 guys typically load longer, but not sure about these guns. I got to think that it might cause feeding issues. Will it? Will I gain anything by loading longer? What COAL do you load to with 40 Tanfos?

Yep...Best device for 22/45.

What's the cheapest hotel room?