WYgunner

It looks like they are taking orders, but this may have started fairly recently: https://masterpiecearms.com/shop/mpa-ds9-open-pistol/

Along with others, I have taken note of the MPA DS9 open model based on the build spec and price. I did some research on the forum and I saw the thread discussing the hybrid model, but I haven't seen a ton of talk about the open version beyond the subdiscussion taking place in the hybrid thread. I am familiar with the background of the company, ownership change, etc. Anyone have any first-hand experience with the latest version of this blaster? Thanks in advance.

Running an 11.5# CGW mainspring and a rami FP spring. I don’t have an extended firing pin and my setup will ignite Winchester spp and fiocchi reliably.

Has anyone seen my sunglasses? Awesome picture Paul!

Thanks to all the match staff and sponsors that made this event happen. I had a great time blasting.

In my experience, One Shot is great for reloading pistol, but it causes the rounds to get sticky. In 2011s, this can lead to the rounds binding in your magazine, resulting in jams. I load all of my ammo and then spray it with electrode cleaner followed by liquid wrench dry-lube.

Within reason, most people will rise to the level of their competition. If you are serious about competing (nothing wrong with just having a good time), I think you need to squad with people that are better than yourself. More importantly than skill alone, you are exposing yourself to people with winning mindsets and the ability to execute.

This has been a painful subject for me. While I really would like to shoot with both eyes open, it seems like with my contacts, it isn't possible because the sight clarity is absolutely horrible. Unfortunately, I have a pretty bad prescription so there isn't a whole lot of options. I am considering getting lasik next year and readdressing the subject. If you can do it, use both eyes. The biggest detriment to shooting with one eye is that your transitions will be much slower.

For jacketed bullets, I like Zero's and Precision Delta. Montana Golds are nice, but they can get expensive and in my experience they usually take a little more powder to achieve the same velocity as their competitors. For coated bullets, I like Precision (Not PD) since they make a 185gr in .401. You can use a little bit less powder and be good for power factor. Even so, most all of the coated bullets I have tried produce pretty good results. So much so, that I haven't seen a reason to pay more for jacketed bullets. I will note that everyones' barrels are different, so you may get different results. Both of my limited guns have Schuemann AET barrels and they seem to do pretty well with coated bullets.

Mikie, In my opinion, your transition will not be difficult. Keep in mind that the most accurate shooting will still likely occur from using the square outline of the front post and not the tube itself. By my account, the purpose of the tube is to help you find the front sight and not necessarily help you aim. Even so, I do sometimes find myself using the tube to aim for quick speed shoots at close distance. If speed was not a factor in USPSA, many people would probably avoid the use of fiber optic tubes. Your question about which setup will be the most accurate is difficult to limit to the comparison of fiber vs. no fiber. From the way I see it, the trade-off of accuracy and speed comes more from the width relationship between the front sight and the rear notch rather than whether or not you have a fiber optic tube. More space between the sides of the front sight and rear notch typically produces a faster setup while less space typically produces a more accurate setup. In regards to best practices, I would consider limiting the amount of bulb produced when you melt the sighting side of the tube. If you are using a Dawson front sight, I would recess the bulb under the surface layer of the front sight. If you are using a Brazzos, then you don't need to worry about it because the tube is actually behind the sight. Also, avoid any movement in the tube; this usually leads to breakage.

With no prior information, I would look at this photo and suspect your extractor as well. With either dummy rounds that are the same length as your match ammo or your match ammo with a shortened firing pin, I would insert each mag and and hand cycle some rounds through your gun. If they feel chunky, then I would recommend tuning your extractor. If they all feel smooth, then I would try changing out the springs and/or followers as others have mentioned.

I would say it is Ford vs. Chevy. I have a holster from each manufacturer and they are both pretty good. With that being said, I have been using a Bladetech on a BOSS hanger for a year or so now.

Retention and security with the racer holster should not be an issue as long as you positively seat the trigger guard in the holster block. Additionally, the extended mag release should not be an issue with any of the holster setups. With a BOSS holster setup you will get some wear, but the XDM finish is pretty resilient. Overall, if you are shooting USPSA, I wouldn't give a whole lot of thought about wear on your gun; it is going to happen. Considering your funding concern, I would absolutely recommend going with the BOSS setup (I like bladetech, but comptac makes good stuff as well). Use blue loctite on all of screws and you will never have to mess with it. Also, if you are new to USPSA, it might be a better idea to simplify your rig. Unless you are performing sub second draws, I don't think a race holster is going to provide you with a whole lot of added benefit. But....., if you feel compelled to have a race holster ( I can relate), I would go with a higher end model that will give you some different options and have a longer lifespan.

I believe both the Eagle 5.1 and the Edge have bull barrels and no bushings. The Edge has slightly more non-reciprocating mass considering its full dust cover; In other words, the Edge has a little more weight up front.

I use a Wolff #10 recoil spring and #15 mainspring. With this setup you need to change the springs out every every 7-10K and get an extended firing pin depending on your setup.

If you are loading on a Dillon, I believe you can adjust the priming ram to smash the primers a little bit further in to the pocket.

+1 Davsco - I typically carry one more than the number of reloads I plan to perform. This way if I drop one or have a malfunction, I have a spare. I would say that about 90% of the stages out there can be done with one reload in limited.

This depends on how far you want to go. If you just want to make it acceptable, then you will need to get a different magwell or grind the sides flat to make it IDPA legal. After that, as long as you have the correct mag button you are good to go. If you want to go further and still keep it IDPA legal, I would install EGW trigger components and have them tuned. I would also install an 8lb recoil spring and 15lb mainspring. If you want to optimize it as a steel gun, I would change the trigger components, disable the grip safety, replace the mainspring housing and change the springs.

That is just plain awesome, but there is also a $300 difference between the two solutions. The happy medium that I have found is the Vibra Prime by Frankford Arsenal ($50). Nothing like the RF-100, but it seems to work fairly well with some tuning.

Brilliant!

As a fellow "variable front sight" shooter, you might consider thoroughly degreasing the dovetail, using anaerobic activator and loctite 620; If you are using 262, it doesn't seem to be very effective on the front end of the gun because of temperature and solvents. 262 is a thread locker whereas 620 is a retaining compound. Ultimately, it comes down to fitting, but this can help prevent having an adjustable front sight.

I have had three different 2011s and they have all been slightly different from an ammunition perspective. I have a Frankenstein 40 Edge and 9mm Eagle that will run pretty much anything, but I also had a DVC that struggled to run anything reliably (This was later remedied by STI). Whether or not your gun will run factory ammo is based upon a few variables. Some contributing factors are your magazines, feed ramp angle, barrel ramp transition, extractor and bullet profile. If all of these variables are acceptable, my assumption would be that your gun will work. However, there is definitely a difference between what will work and what is optimized. In my previous 40 setup, I tried everything from factory length to 1.20." The shorter rounds would feed, but there was definitely some chunkiness when they went into the chamber. 1.190" seemed to be perfect for my setup and is what I use today. You can get a good idea of if the round will work by slowly hand cycling the rounds through the gun (Do this at the range or with a shortened firing pin). If there is a lot of chunkiness, the gun may work during live fire, but it could be more prone to malfunction if your grip breaks down during a stage.

Where are you finding them? I bought a bunch from Graf's years ago but haven't found any lately. The last time I got them, it was from Brownells. I just checked again and it looks like they are currently out of stock. The price seems to fluctuate a bit, but they can be had for under $30 if you maximize your order quantity.

If you are looking for the best bang for your buck (pun intended), you might also consider Magtech. I have been paying anywhere from $24-$26/k total for them and they have been 100% through all my guns.

I have used Black Magic grip tape both previously as a skateboarder and now as a shooter. In my experience, it seems to be extremely abrasive; this is both good and bad. Using it on a 2011, I have literally burned a hole through my support hand palm. The solution I found was to take a scrap piece of grip tape and use it to sand the cutout until the aggressiveness reaches your preferred level. Also, on the support side of the gun, an aggressive hand cant will slide the grip tape out of place. To prevent this, I de-grease the application surface and then use super glue around the edges of the cutout.