WYgunner

Thanks, I have been using a solid slave pin and didn’t realize what it was.

Please delete / mistake duplicate post

Can anyone explain what the roll pin is used for in the Cajun RRK part number 75850? I don’t see any mention of it in the installation instructions. Disconnector to hammer? Thanks in advance.

Perfect, thank you!

Thank you Sir.

Anyone loading PD V2s in a Shadow 2? I have a bunch that I am working on loading up. 1.120" seems to pass the plunk and magazine test in my blaster, but I wanted to see what others were loading to. Maybe @rowdyb or @Ssanders224 might have some insight? Thanks in advance.

Looking for any recent reviews on this service. I am considering selling a gun and I am trying to figure out the best way to go.

Why not get the best of both worlds and get brass grips with g10 inserts?

I already went full send on the hogged out harbinger v2. If it gets smoked after 20K, I will chalk it up to a lesson learned.

Watch out for this guy! Welcome Dave!

I am placing an order with primary machine for the exact same thing today. Still trying to decide on the Harbinger 1 or 2...

Got it, I misunderstood your original post. I definitely agree that any increase in danger would be negligible. I am personally more concerned with the optic shearing completely off the gun and hitting me in the head. This has actually happened to me with an OR gun. Also, I can unfortunately state that you can shoot an S2 without any bushing at all...the accuracy is terrible haha.

I haven't tested accuracy because it didn't strike me as having a potential effect. I could be wrong, but it doesn't seem like the front sight (fs) contributes much to bushing retention/support. The fs roll pin is captured on each end within the slide and the bottom half of the pin passes over the bushing to hold it in place. The fs itself doesn't contact the bushing as far as I can tell. The roll pin would have to fail and clear the bushing channel in order for the bushing to completely come out. I would venture a guess that a more common issue occurs with people reusing the old roll pin and having it walk out the side of the slide. I removed the fs on my gun because I didn't want it obstructing my view and I think the filler block is primarily for aesthetics. I will definitely say that I think the 1911/2011 method of bushing retention is far superior to the S2.

Did you happen to weigh your V1 without an optic?

I can personally attest that shooting an S2 without a front sight roll pin will eject the bushing quite quickly. It happened for me after only a few mags. In regard to the discussion regarding the spacer, I have been shooting an S2 for about 10-15K with only a roll pin and it has been totally fine.

I am considering getting my slide lightened and I am currently looking at both the PM Harbinger 1 and 2. After all the time that has passed since the original post does anyone have any updates on the V1 vs V2 for recoil impulse and durability? Thanks

I took a flapper wheel to my S2 just to remove the hard edges. Even with just a slight radius it is a night and day difference. One downside to flaring the magwell is that I believe the gun is no longer IPSC legal (if anyone cares).

I totally get it, but the allure of the MPA for me is the build spec for the price. Compared to some of the other options out there (i.e. $8000 Chaos), the price is definitely on the low-end. There is no question that you get what you pay for, but if the gun runs and is accurate, the aesthetics and finishing are secondary for me in this price range. In order to produce an open gun for $4,500, costs have to be cut somewhere.

Thanks Cbritt. On a slightly unrelated note, is it an optical illusion or is the ejection port covered by the thumb rest?

Thanks for the feedback. Do you have any opinions on the different grip textures? I had a buddy there that tried a few and he mentioned that there were a few different options.

I read through that discussion; thanks

You can also just remove the spring and close the loop with pliers. I did this on mine and you can make it as soft or strong as you like.

I went through quite the debacle with the optic mount on my S2 OR. I bought an aluminum mounting plate from a company that I won't name and used it with good success for a few months. I made the mistake of unmounting the plate to clean the gun and that was when complete chaos ensued. From that point forward, I could never get the plate to stay tight. I had an area match coming up, so I eventually decided to use RED loctite on the mount because I was tired of messing with it. The mount stayed tight for a few days and then ultimately came loose again. After taking the optic off, I found out that one of the screws had snapped off in the slide. Unbelievably, I was able to get the screw out with a cordless drill, soldering iron, and a hansen bit. After looking at the plate, it was clear that it had loosened under recoil and the plate was peened. This resulted in all the energy being transferred to the screws. At that point, I had three days until I had to leave for the area match, so I ended up ordering the same plate from the same company because they were the only company I could find with one day shipping. I got the new plate and then proceeded to degrease everything with acetone and use red loctite on the plate and blue on the optic. On the final stage of A1, I discovered that my optic was loose yet again. This time, the plate was tight, but the optic came loose. When I got home, I degreased everything and remounted the optic. During a match the following weekend, the optic and mount blew completely off the gun and hit me in the face. Both mounting screws had sheered completely off in the slide. This time, I attempted to remove the screws and failed miserably. I was able to drill out the center of a screw, but the carbide hansen bit snapped off inside the screw. After shedding tears, I gave up and sent the gun to CZ. After a few months, they ended up just replacing the gun completely. I have since bought a direct milled S2 and had no problems. I learned two things from my experience: 1) I will never trust aluminum mounting plates again and 2) CZ has some of the best customer service out there.

I have an S2 that I bought from a friend that was direct milled for a specific Trijicon SRO (exact optic). Holding it up to the light, you can see under the optic almost all the way across with the exception of the front, back, and center (where the screws are). The optic is fit so tightly into the slide that I usually have to tap it in with a plastic mallet. Funny enough, when I take the optic off for cleaning, the zero seems to remain unchanged. There are no recoil bosses and the optic is basically supported by the housing front to back. I am not sure how you could have recoil bosses on a standard S2 mill job as the SRO actually hangs over the sides and you can see into the recesses for the bosses. I have absolutely hammered on the gun and had no issues to date. Granted, the optic could die tomorrow...