Eager

Nothing collectable in my garage. Let the UV shine. The light is installed and working and it's very bright (which is very good), and comes on when I want it. Although the temp has warmed into the upper 40s through 50s in my garage now, so I can't give a real "test". I highly recommend this as an over bench light where good light is needed. It makes the rest of my lit garage look dark. Now for the pre-bench build clean-out.

I've wonder about the proportions of lead from primers vs. bullet, so I while back I searched: Studies I have seen indicate that more airborne lead comes from shooting (uncoated) lead bullets than from the lead syphenate in the primers and this was due to vaporization of lead in the barrel. I couldn't find the study, but this indicates that TCJ bullets beat FMJ and are really better than uncoated: http://www.rainierballistics.com/airbornelead.htm

I've found that if I (manually) de-cock my -85 fast enough and with confidence, the RO doesn't even realize what happend, let alone have time to question it. Get a manually de-cockable CZ, practice manual de-cocking (it only takes a short session in the garage or basement to become proficient). Once you get going you can shock and impress unsuspecting internet commandos with tales of your habits of dropping of the hammer on live rounds. It's fun.

I'm interested in the new e-treat finish too. But it's kind of a mystery. Anybody got any links to some more info about it, e.g. performance? Specifically, I'd like some better corrosion protection (and durable finish) for a now worn blued gun.

REI Eat Asian Food Filson Eat oysters the Aquarium Eat salmon

Wasn't he elected president, winning by a narrow margin over the Peruvian Cicciolina? Serving right before that Japanese guy they had for president for a while (who left for Japan mid term because of sex scandals)? Those nutty Peruvian politics. Anyway, Pooh seems like a fine choice for president of Peru, dispite his obvious limitations, being a fantasy character and all, I mean Pooh would be less susceptible to scandals and bribery by drug cartels, so I could eaily see how he could be elected, although I kind of liked the Peruvian Cicciolina. That's my guess anyway.

OK. I got the High Output 8-ft two tube, T-12, Fluo fixture described above. Lowe's describes it as "cold weather" and "all-weather". They say they sell a lot of them when it gets cold. It was $55.00. The ballast indeed has cold temperture ratings printed on it. It looks like it will be a great light set up for above bench. I'm installing it now. It may take a while before I am able to put it to use at reloading or gun work because I have yet to clean the area and build a bench. I got the idea for this high output (HO) fixture from a car enthusiasts web forum. They reported these HO lights as the best for good garage lighting. Lowe's had most of their fluo fixtures set up and running and the HO fixture blew everything else away as far as good light. I have used regular fluo fixtures (35W per 4-ft tube) above my benches for years and have been somewhat dissatisfied with the light. Even the new T-8 fixtures which are supposed to be "high light", don't really look like it to me. I'll post more info and pics when I eventually get it going, but I think this looks like a really great choice for over reload bench lighting. My daughter asked that I put this: and this:

EGW's new HD extractor looks very interesting. http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=25...light=extractor http://egw-guns.com/catalog/product_info.p...0752f19758a451e

New prices at Wal-Mart: $14.56 per 100 rd "value pack" of WWB 9 mm 115 gr FMJ not just for me, has been reported on other forums in other locations.

I have two pair of BladeTech dual mag pouches with Teklocs, for XD mags (basically like new) that I no longer need. I will sell them cheap, if you want them. I use the same thing today but for my CZ. They're great pouches. Right hand. Here's what they are: http://www.blade-tech.com/Double-Magazine-...Lok-pr-863.html

So.... one vote for WST one vote for Clays one vote for TiteGroup and one vote for 231 So far I like the recommendation that WST is a little easier to see in the cases due to it's lighter shade and slightly larger volume, so I'm leaning that way, at least for the first pound. Then maybe Clays.

This thread from the Bob Villa forums (a peice of which Sandoz posted, Thanks!) seems most appropriate. Here's a key segment of the text: http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/cold_weather_li...al-1-T4332.html The fixture I was looking at at L*w*'s sounds a lot like this, so I've just got to make sure it has a ballast that works in cold. If the fixture at L*w*'s is not what I want, I'm going to look for a dual tube, T12, 8', high output, outdoor sign type fixture like what's described above. The one at L*w*'s gave great light like what's described above. I guess that's due to the high output and larger T12 part. Most of the other fluo fixtures I saw (mostly T8s)provided dissapointingly insufficient light. Here's some more seemingly useful info about the HO lights: http://www.ytmag.com/toolt/messages/163593.html

OK. I think this is the high output fluo fixture I was considereing. I liked the light output. An STN series Metalux strip light by Cooper Lighting. It looks like this cheat sheet will allow one to determine the type of ballast it has by the serial No., which is on the outside of the box: http://www.cooperlighting.com/specfiles/pr...infopdf/STN.pdf I'll have to check back at L*w*'s for the exact serial number an try to determine the exact ballast on that. The bit about the high output 8' tube fixtures use in outdoor signs seems useful. A two tuber sounds like it would work great for me. I think I'll keep asking around and check at the local electrical/lighting supply joint. I don't think the fact that a particular tube/fixture is T8 or T12 matters as far as temperature performance. I think the "T" number is just the diameter of the tube. I found this on the net by searching for fluorescent tube diameter: Also, some T12 tubes for sale at L*w*'s were identified as being good for cold weather. I think the ballast is what matters for cold performance.

I beleive this is what I have in mind (that I saw at the local L*w*'s for $55). However, the info. that you've posted shows the potentially contradictory quandry I have, in that the first blurb (which is taken off the net, and I'd previously read) says that (energy-saver?) T12 fixtures are to be avoided for temps below 50F, yet the second bit says that (perhaps another type of) T12 fixtures are good for cold. Which T12s are "energy-savers"? The box of the fixture I like says nothing about temperature performance. How do I know if the T12 fixture I like is good for cold? Maybe I'll just buy it, install it and see if it works.

I'm frustrated trying to figure out the fluo fixtures I want for the reloading area I'm building in the corner of my garage. I want some fluo fixtures that give high output (or good light) but start and work well in low temperatures. I thought I had what I wanted at Lowe's (a high output 8' dual T12 tube strip fixture, that was listed as "hot and cold weather") but now I suspect it's a magnetic ballasted unit that as I understand it won't work well in the cold. What the heck should I look for? I like the look of the High Output (HO) fixtures and tubes (110W each at 8'), but do they only work well in moderate temps? What fluo set-up can I get that will give good light at low temp?

As I understand it, it's because of the tapered case of the 9 mm.

My first press is here. A 550B and it will be ready soon enough. I see Hodgdon Clays is a popular powder, as well as Win 231 and others. I'm trying to select a powder to start (reloading) with. At first I thought I would try for a powder that was more voluminous for a given velocity to allow for better visual (powder level) detection, so at first I was leaning towards Unique maybe, and I never did see what the specific volume of Clays was, but now I'm not sure that matters. I'm sure people who are using Clys are seeing the powder in the case right? Is there a recommended powder for a beginning 550 loader (L-10 shooter)? I was also thinking about trying some moderate loads at some point so was thinking Unique or Power Pistol might be fun to try as well.

The standard CZ (-75 family) requires dropping the hammer on a live round to access the DA feature. Alternatively it could be carried cocked-&-locked. Neither of these options are popular with LEO agencies. CZs with decockers are relatively new.

If only more "suddenly politically omniscient (all-knowing)" entertainers and folks of the media were so honest and unmeddlesome.

I use a CZ-85 Combat in Production and drop the hammer (with fingers). I once experimented with allowing the hammer to slip through my fingers to see where it would go off. It went off easier than I thought (the hammer was already slightly down) and it hurt my hand/fingers when the slide and hammer came back really fast. So watch out for that.

+1E00 = 1.0E00

Interesting, since the daughter wants a digi camera and wife wants digi video cam.

I decided to avoid the whole DOH controversy by just getting a Comptac belt holster for my single stack. I think It's even good for IDPA if I ever do that. I don't feel like my times are suffering because of it. I don't have women's hips though.

Vitamin B worked for me.

What will you do with all that time you used to spend tinkering with your 1911s? Idle hands are the Devil's tools, you know.