Zmaniac

Several of mine and friends done by CZ Custom with plate adapter. The latest, greatest optic has changed several times in the couple of years I've been shooting them, nice to have future flexibility.

Shot mine finally yesterday, nice and crisp, light and very short reset.

BTW, I replaced the Q5SF extractor spring with CZ75 spring, works fine. I think it is the standard CZ spring, but could be the extra power. Would try both for those that need one.

@Keithwhite100 Thanks for your review of your efforts. I faced a similar dilemma with extraction jams and did not shoot my Q5SF in matches pretty much for over a year until that was sorted out with a stronger extractor spring. I’ve been able to make it work with down to a 12# recoil spring (glock 34) with ~135PF 124 gr rounds. Looking at my current setup, I did notice that it requires a good bit of force to unlock and extract an unfired round from the chamber, way more than my CZs. Wonder if there is an issue with a tight lockup in this gun that is showing up as trouble with extraction. I slightly polished the top edge of the front of the barrel hood that locks up, which seemed to help. Interested in others observations.

Yeah, I had trouble also with Syntech 150’s and lighter recoil spring, as those rounds are pretty soft and slide is slow coming forward already due to cocking the striker at the end of the cycle.

get stronger extractor spring if recoil spring does not solve your problem

You need an extra power extractor spring. keithwhite100@gmail.com will sell you one. https://www.waltherforums.com/threads/walther-ppq-q5-match-steel-frame-ftes.116510/page-12

The SP01 Shadow versions are what you want for competition, if you prefer that grip over the large S2. Shadow implies no firing pin block, thus better trigger pull. SP01 Shadow Custom are CZ Custom shop versions with all the trigger work and basic tuning out of the box, good value and nice trigger.

This is the Walther instructions on how to adjust the sear screw on their Expert trigger. Understand DIY adjustments may vary based on location of screw, thread pitch, etc, https://www.carl-walther.com/fileadmin/uploads/media/manuals/284_10_53_BA_Q5_Match-SF_EXPERT_International_Inhalt_2019-03-29_LR.pdf Of note, the picture mislabels the SA lever and sear as one for the other.

I haven’t broken one on my SF despite 10k rounds. Walther does recommend using snap cap if dry firing cocked trigger “to protect the striker”. I just saw that today, but had not always used a snap cap up until now.

+1

Mine did not work from the factory. Trigger safety would engage during normal trigger pulls and thus was not deemed reliable.

You can also just use a metal file, they only need to be shortened few thousands, typically. Use calipers on the screw to see how you are progressing.

The Q5 SF cocks the striker in last 1/8" per Imaoldfart @ Waltherforums as it returns to battery. If using reduced power recoil spring, less power to return, thus use reduced striker spring. With a very weak recoil spring (Sprinco white) and stock striker spring, you can get a partial return to battery that still lets you pull the trigger, get a click, but no bang as releasing the sear and striker spring gets the slide to move fully into battery, but the striker doesn't have enough energy left to set off the primer. Had that happen before using reduced striker spring.

Romeo Max looks like it sits up fairly high. RMR and SRO sit a bit lower. I went through 2 Romeos in 2 weeks, switched to RMR03, have 3 of them running fine for past 10 months, about 6k through each. Looking forward to SRO for window size, but I rarely lose dot in RMR after regular practice, still occasionally in weird positions.

Got the TF “new” magwell, which is advertised to fit both the Q5 and Q5 SF. On my SF, it was slightly loose, but putting a piece of tape inside made a nice fit. The TF magwell does not match up with the SF frame, though, and bottom of frame well presents edges on all sides that catch the mag. I got the Walther magwell, that is also advertised to fit both models, and it does cover the frame magwell all except the back, which is already angled out on the frame itself, so no problem. The Walther magwell does overhang the frame a little on the sides and front, so I fit it to the frame by filing off and sanding the overhand for a smooth transition, which now feeds without a hitch. You do need new basepads to fit in the Walther, I used the TF non-extended, which fit fine. As I’m running Carry Optic, the magwell can only be used for IDPA, which is 10 round max. I have Taran Tactical extended mags for USPSA, which does not allow the magwell, and those don’t fit in the magwell anyhoo.

Vaporized lead is much more easily absorbed into your body through your lungs than through skin or even the digestive system. Lead in primers is reportedly a large contributor, but you can smell the lead on fired cast bullets and even on open base bullets. I also shy from RO-ing those, or at least stay down wind. I tried lead-free primers (Fiocchi, shot 20k with no failures) and fully jacketed bullets, but no big change in lead levels after 9 months or so. Did not worsen, however, despite increasing to 1200 rounds per month from 500 or so. Someone experienced in heavy metal exposure suggested looking towards other exposures. My home is 1950's, lead solder on water pipes is likely, drink just filtered water now. Got rid of crystal bar glasses that may be leaded crystal. Probably need to limit my indoor range use as well.

Let us know if the double-feed extraction issue is solved with what they replaced, or whether still having them. If so, do your custom mag guides resolve that? I'm sending mine back to Walther for same issues.

I have a CZC plate system for my CO setup, helped to have plate as the Romeo1 optic I first used broke quickly, as did the 2nd Romeo1, them changed plates and now use a Trijicon. With no further issues. So, plates let you choose different red dots to try. I sent off my new backup gun to be millled just fpr the Trijicon, as no plate allows for deeper mounting screw engagement for that optic. The plate system is ok, but only few threads of screw engagement for the optic, so if my red Loctite did not hold well, then optic would loosen and then rattle and die, along with not being able to finish that stage well. “Permanent” Loctitie worked, can still remove it from plate since only few screw thread engaged, but dedicated milled slide for that optic will hold better (snug fit front to back) once I dedicate to that optic for my 2nd backup gun. Downside is that I now want to use the larger window Trijicon SRO perhaps which may not have the same mounting as the RMR, so milled slide may not work ,but plate system on other gun always provides options. Milled slide can be lower than plates, but that is less of an issue once you practice enough, as I don’t need iron sights now for reference.

Remember, in Europe most pistols are produced to best handle NATO 9mm ammo, which is comparable to +P heavier power loads, thus heavy factory recoil springs. Especially for the powder puff loads I use!

There’ still an internal drop safety with the striker block. Verify it does not release striker if dropped/hit with mallet if concerns. Walther has released a factory version including the expert trigger, not the Champion, but Q5 Expert. https://www.carl-walther.com/products/defense-guns/pistols/2840766.html. Likely only available in Europe, not sure if that affects USPSA ruling, but is on a factory model.

I’ve got 3000 rounds through my SF without any more FTextract/eject jams since I tweaked my extractor. Still would like deeper mag guides. Had one jam on loading from slide lock other day in a match due to that, round was in spec and loaded fine on testing after.

I ended up redrawing the plastic guides (thicker) and I'm having them printed. I should have them tomorrow. That should solve the wiggle problem... If that works, you have a new business, let us know.

My mod list: -trigger bar polish on contact points -filed back trigger drop safety until clears frame with all trigger pulls, still functions with plenty of engagement -reduced recoil spring - SSGR with dimple hoe drilled, 13# flat wire Wilson 5” 1911 spring. Tried Sprinco dual spring system, white spring only works with reduced striker spring, great on recoil and dot stabilization, but still had some return to battery issues, so sticking with single spring system. -Sprinco reduced striker spring, helps return to battery with reduced recoil springs -Sprinco spring kit for PPQ. This and striker spring not in online catalog, but call and ask. Most important mod is the reduced striker block spring in this kit, takes all the grit out of the trigger pull. Also has reduced sear spring, I think. Challenge reassembling sear, optional mod for little gain. -Sear set screw mod - minor mod that decreases sear interface, slight reduction in sear travel and pull weight -Grip reduction at upper 1/4 to improve trigger reach for my hands. Take grip off gun and use curved file to thin it where your trigger finger goes, and thumb path to mag release. -Sight plate mounting screw protrudes into extractor recess, filed down to flush to avoid any interference with extractor. -Increased tension on extractor by putting slight curve to increase extractor tension, had noticed occasional (1 per150 rounds) double feeds with loose case in chamber, seemed to resolve after this tweak. Did this before noticing screw, however. -Barrel crowned -relieved angles on front of slide bar under breechface -Trijicon 3.25 dot -Taylor Freelance +6 basepads and springs

Xav91, I'm having FTE as well, shows up every 100-150 rounds as double feed with empty case loose in the chamber. Have the same loose mags pushing to left, same witness mark on slide, but no noticeable mark on mags. Not clear to me how the slide interference would cause my double feed, but certainly can see that it could interfere with cycling forward, which is a critical step with this pistol needing to cock the striker spring at the end of forward movement. To try to fix the failures to extract before seeing your post, I increased tension on the extractor, noticed it was straight, while the same part on PPQ M2 had a little curve along the tail. Added a slight curve. No further issue seen in next 500 rounds. Testing tension by having extractor hold onto a round seemed to be fine before adjustment, however. Was just about to send it back to Walther. Looking at my CZ SP-01 Shadow Custom, would note it had various surfaces rounded down from factory by the custom shop to improve function. Looking the same place as the witness mark, both corners of that portion of the slide are ground down much more than you are showing from either the shop or usage. Only a slight amount of wiggle play in the CZ mags.