Zmaniac

Could you clarify what you mean by adjusting the drop safety? Doesn't the Springco Spring kit make the trigger more finicky? Even before spring kit, safety was engaging with any angle of finger on trigger, so reduced it's engagement on the frame. There's the back of the safety that hits the frame, I reduced the bottom that sits at a right angle or so to the back until it cleared. Still has plenty of engagement, but safety will clear with any good trigger pull now. Did you notch a little hole in your guide rod? Yes

Sprinco spring kit eliminated grit from the striker block. Had to adjust trigger drop safety to function properly regardless of springs. Little polish on the trigger bar, now is about 3lb 12oz, fairly crisp. Changed to SSGR and 13# wilson 1911 spring to get the bounce out of the recoil, shooting 135 PF loads. Reduced trigger finger area of grip on either side to get a little more reach.. Now, gives my Shadow Custom SP-01 a real run for the money, kind of like the striker trigger better, and no DA/SA. Slo-Mo recoil no different between the two.

If Walther offers this trigger factory installed, does that change the ruling?

What else would you like to see in interactive dry fire stage? Timer? Ghost Runs? Library of USPSA classifiers? Enjoyed the dry fire ninja, works on ipad browser fine. Liked the inclusion of USPSA classifiers in the the times, would be a great resource to have the pictures of the targets for the classifier stages set up to scale. Could have the +/- adjust the whole stage size up and down to suit the user. I plan to run this off a projector to large screen. Love the mover! Could use the FF button to increase speed. Thanks for your contributions to our sport!

I thought Hwansik on the podcast also said he was concentrating on just front to back pressure, and minimizing side to side to try to track vertically. Bob Vogel’s older grip video covers locking support wrist forward pretty well.

Slide cuts look great! Undercut trigger guard, did you have beavertail undercut also?

Update for me, had some recent occurrences even with my longer bullet seating, found that my extractor spring was worn and replaced it, also found a burr on the extractor edge that contacts the rim and smoothed that out. Now, my CZ feeds fine, even with shorter factory cartridges. Burr was found by running fingernail along the edge. Spring is cheap. I had been running the old spring under the mistaken theory that less pressure would let rounds slide up more easily, but I think it let them jiggle and occasionally jam. I also had looked at brass case length mentioned above, but longer cases did not seem to correlate with jams. For seating depth, load one every 5-10 thou up to maximum for mag (ex 1.169" for my gun with Xtreme 124gr RN) and slowly feed each to see what the sweet spot is.

Long term fix to a problem is a valuable one!

Had the same problem due to strong hand thumb engaging SL, had to train to wrap it over base of support thumb.

Second this advice. I did exactly this to get my SP-01 ready for Production/SSP. Fitted the thin safety so that is stiff to engage. Works, but never use it, and never engages despite my thumb riding alongside it.

Nice tip! I'm interested in using this method to measure when I need to replace the recoil spring. So, can anyone provide data on how much a worn spring is reduced compared to a newer one? Others from this forum suggested replacing when old spring is 3 coils shorter than the new one. Just curious. One way to answer my own question would be with a set of various spring weights and seeing which weight was too low.

I fitted a new safety, and mine did not function until fitted, as seller suggested may be required. RHS arm did not penetrate LHS enough initially so that seat contact surface did not clear slide and seat spring notch did not show. When the tip of RHS arm was adjusted to allow it to push through the LHS more, these were corrected.

Or, when you fit a new safety, you can adjust the friction of the safety to the sear. I'm shooting mine as SSP and Production, so using DA and no safety off the draw. I left my safety fit fairly stiff, so that it doesn't switch on accidentally.

I do this also, leave them on towel for 2-3 days. I leave old primers in, and they take longer to dry out. Have plenty of brass, don't feel the need for a dryer. Caution using your oven with lead primer residue. No difference noted in reloading or shooting leaving pistol primers in, saves a time-consuming step. Skipping the steel pins creates much less mess of little pins all over the floor and jams in the press from decapping.

OK, you all have me converted. No more steel pins for pistol brass and a lot less mess in the reloading room. Agree, just as clean.

Same here. Since I wet tumble with steel pins, need some lube for easier sizing. I've sprayed on hands and picked up brass, works well but slow. Spraying directly on brass helps lube case flare step, but causes powder to stick to inside walls. I just don't like the aesthetics of that. Now I spray sides of lg ziplock and roll brass around inside. I don't remove lube after usually, but sometimes throw batch of finished cartridges on towel on cookie sheet and briefly rub off tiny brass chips and some of the lube to cut down on brass chips in pistol for match loads. Anybody know if any difference between Hornady One-Shot Case Lube vs Gun Lube?

Yes, to wet tumbler with no depriming for pistol brass. I use Franklin Arsenal steel pin wet tumbler. Used to deprime pistol before tumbling as I do for my anal long range brass, but found it does no good for pistol, other than decreasing some of the dirt in resizing. Not worth depriming for high-volume pistol reloading. Never have primer insert problems, unless CCI (hard primers) with mixed range brass, and that is more likely related to the brass type and primer than anything in the pocket. I lube a big batch with One Shot after cleaning before sizing. Used to use a towel to wipe off brass particles after various dies with 550 (Lee dies), but haven't needed this due to less debris with Dillion 9mm dies, or just more conservative die setup. With no lube, you will get some sizing and powder bell expansion resistance, but light lube gets rid of that and does not seem to impact round performance leaving it on.

I did not find much difference in recoil loading 124gr vs 147gr. to similar power factors (mass x veloc). I'm shooting minor, goal around 130-135 PF to stay above threshold in winter. When I calculate the actual muzzle energy, which should reflect recoil truer than power factor ( 1/2 M x Vsquared vs M x V), there is also not a significant difference between those either. Muzzle energy calculated for 124gr at 1025 fps = 289 ft-lb. using 3.7 TG For 147gr at 915 fps = 273 ft-lbs, using 3.3 TG. Note difference of 16 ft-lbs, not much difference in felt recoil either. Both jacketed Precision Delta. I switched back and forth with a mags of one vs the other both hands, single hand and could not really tell between them. Would've thought the lower powder would clearly be lighter. Question, what is a better way to evaluate the actual recoil differences? I was watching "Sheriff of Baghdad" on TV using slow-motion camera, which looked intriguing. At least, seems like a good excuse to get a newer iPhone. What to watch for?

Had similar problem on an XDm in .40. Look for burr on extractor that may be blocking smooth pickup of the cartridge rim.

Love my XDm 5.25 Competition model, sweet trigger. Got the Powder River trigger, but was a little too light for me, actually moved back to stock, excepting for trigger and sear springs.

Thanks! I used to use Ramshot Competition, but had a hard time keeping it in stock. I just worked up a minor power load with e3, need to test it against my Titegroup load to see which works better.

Having same issues here as well. Using EGW sizing, Dillon expander funnel, Dillon seating (small side seemed to center better than larger on Xtreme 180 RNFP for me), Dillon crimp. Lots failing ECW gauge (but not my barrel) due to asymmetrical bulge. All plunk well after just sizing, so not a sizing problem, but cannot speak towards the softer side issue causing seating bulge suggested above. What helped was extra 1/4 turn on crimp beyond recommended 1/4, did pull bullet to verify not squeezing it too much. Interested to try Bayou over Xtremes to see if harder bullet stretches case more uniformly, but would not expect it to if a soft side of case issue. Big picture, though, is that the last 120 of my failure to gauge cartridges shot fine out of my XDM 5.25, unlike the OP who is having actual reliability issues in his gun. Yes, throwing ECW gauge away is cheapest option, just like that test with 7 rounds over one at a time in barrel. Nick and CrashDodson, keep us posted!

Starting to answer my own question, that is, powder bulkier than Titegroup for ".40 lite" using 180g bullet (goal PF 130 or so), choices based on further reading seem to be: W231 WST VV N320 VVN340 e3 Ramshot Competition Looking for "ideal' powder, of course, with powder-puff recoil, low smoke, clean, fills more of the case, available. Kinda like the unicorn on the hot-crazy matrix. Any help on trimming this list?

I've been using TG with success also, but concerned over tiny amount of powder (using 3.5g for XDm5.25) in large .40 case making it tough to see in my Dillon 550. Worry about squibs or double charges. I have no problem with TG in 9mm, easy to see. W231 often mentioned as bulkier, which would be good. Any newer bulkier powders with clean burns, low smoke for light loads in .40? Thanks.

The OP's problem is likely needing reading glasses to see the front sight, i.e. "farsighted". I have had the same develop over recent years. Tried the stick-on lens, as well as bifocals/progressive glasses, which work, until you tilt your head differently in a match situation and look outside of the focus. Internet "research" suggested getting a reading glass lens for just the dominant eye, which is a good option, but is a custom job from Rudy's, etc. After speaking with my ophthalmologist, he suggested a reading lens contact in the dominant eye and leave the other eye for far vision. My non dominant eye doesn't need a lens for far vision, so just the one contact. It worked so well that I use that method all day long at work to see computer, etc. Both eyes blend near and far well, not what I expected before trying. No problems driving. You lose a small amount of clarity with distant vision with that setup, but most of the detail we want to see is up close. They also have a progressive contact option for those that have trouble adjusting to 2 different eyes. I just wear whatever safety glasses I want over the contact and roll. Moved up a division in IDPA shortly after correction. Hope this helps!