KustomHolsters

It seems to happen on about the 3rd rd in the mag now that i think about it. Im gonna see if i can clean the mags and try again when i get home.

If you dont mind me asking how are you getting the sns bullet for .059?

I am running 169pf loads which have operated the gun flawlessly for 1500rds. Now all the sudden it stove pipes about 1 time a magazine. It has a sjc 90 degree mount on it. Thanks

I keep getting stove pipes on my open glock. The spent casing sticks straight up vertically with a live round trying to go in the chamber. I have put about 1200 rds of major through this gun, should i try a new recoil spring? Thanks

Check out the possum hollow trimmer.

That is to much in my opinion. There should be just a faint line around the bullet.

The .356 look to be the best grouping to me. Looks like a good load!

I personally just enjoy loading, so buying a new loader was almost as much fun as a new gun. Do your 9mm on the 650 and everything else on the 550.

A used plastic open gun is a great way to get into open. Mine has ran excellent in the thousand rounds or so that i have had it.

I think for a first build you are better off with a 2011 frame because you dont have to stake the plunger tube or mess around with checkering the front strap. Both of these tasks require specific tools although some places offer their 1911 frames with these done. Also, look at the Kart EZ fit barrels.

You can put your barney mag in your front pocket and use it BEFORE the buzzer, but if you use it after the buzzer you go to open.

After i started lubing my pistol cases the variation in oal decreased significantly.

An 11 pound uncaptured cycles factory with my lone wolf and carver 4 port comp.

The main difference i have seen, at least in my glocks with KKM barrel, is that the .401 sized bullets wont drop freely in and out of the chamber. They are still accurate but sometimes its a little though to unload and show clear. So if possible, i would get .400.

I like FC alot.

If you really like the Pyramids billet trigger shoe, go for it but i wish i would have gotten a DK kit. I got a pyramid and even though it is a good kit, i think the DK feels better.

An open Glock would definatly be a good choice. With 170mm mags on most courses of fire you wouldnt have to reload but maybe once. Used G17 and G22 are very common along with glock parts. With a really low poundage recoil spring i run 3.0 gr of TG with a 125gr bullet and it is extremely soft(not sure it would make minor though).

Really depends if you like the Glock style pistol or the M&P. Glocks are alittle cheaper to build on with all the used aftermarket parts available vs the M&P. And no, the 22c slide would not have any more wear than normal.

I agree KKM is a better barrel, but you have to figure out if you are going to benefit more from that small small bit of accuracy you may gain with the KKM or the $100 you could save by going with the Lonewolf.

Lonewolf barrel, carver 4 port comp, sjc 90 degree mount and aftermarket trigger is what i have on mine. I wouldnt buy the kits, you can piece it together cheaper. Also, an uncaptured guide rod and 15 lb spring are needed to handle major, or atleast thats what im using.

It seems you havent already bought the 231 so why dont u just not buy it if you think you will have to much?

I will give that a shot. Thanks

I have a 140mm tf mag extension that is on a 9mm glock mag. Everytime the front of the follower gets hung on the mag. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

The only thing i can figure is that the lead bullets are sized to .401 which is causing them to fit it the chamber but not drop out freely. No my brass is not glocked and i am posetive that my crimp is good. Gonna try to just shoot them like they are. Thanks

How do you do that? Were do get the parts? Harbor freight sells a tap and die kit that has worked great. I think its on sale for 15 dollars now.