splashdown

Thanks for all of the replies. He and I decided to mutually break off the deal, so no 1050 for me. It would be overkill x1000.

Agreed rkjeepxj, that sounds like a lot of trouble. What I want is 100% reliability, and thus mine hold 19.

Spray and Prey doesn't work too well, eh?

I've got one and it does speed up the process, but what do you do about the 9's getting stuck in the 40's? And then sorting all the various 9's and 38's. It's still a PITA, just a bit less now that I have the shell sorter. 5 min for a gallon bucket of mixed brass? I'm not that good.

So I put a pistol up for sale/trade with one of the trade options being a Dillon 1050. I got an offer of a new 1050 (used once) setup in 40 and 9mm, and includes other extras (don't know details yet). Now I'm wondering if I really want one, or do I really need one? Experience: I've been loading almost exclusively 40 S&W, just a little 9mm on a SDB since 2006. I am an engineer and don't mind complex machines. I am patient and good at fixing things that break or get out of adjustment. Questions: Do I really need 8 stations to load 40? I seem to do just fine with four stations on my SDB. I understand swaging 9mm brass could be necessary if military brass is mixed in. Does the 1050 do anything special if an NT case comes around? The NT (Non Toxic) cases seem to leave part of the primer cups behind and then I ruin a new primer trying to seat it. I don't like sorting brass. Currently I only shoot about 4000 rounds per year. I don't mind loading on the SDB. It's a good machine and turns out quality ammo. I spend about 1-2 hours in front of the machine each month. Even at half the loading rate, the 1050 will produce my annual ammo needs in an afternoon or two. Someday though, my son might get interested in shooting and my ammo consumption might double. He's 7 now, so maybe this would be in about 5 years. What would you do?

Oh heck yes the striker guns can be competitive. After 5 years of 2011 (SV sight trackers, 6" STIs) I'm playing with Glocks again. I personally shoot better with the Glock platform.

FYI: The Jager heavy extended guide rod that is listed as being compatible with Wolff springs is also good to go with Glockworx springs (the color coded ones).

I'd say some work has been done to that gun. Just wondering why the three screws in the bottom of the comp? Probably someone tinkering to enlarge the chambers and wound up daylighting through the bottom. Then drilled and tapped to plug the holes. Not to worry though, if it runs you're good to go. Be sure the trigger functions reliably and all safeties work properly. You could easily replace the comp if you wanted to.

Shot this one in L10 with a Glock 24. 29 points in 3.25 makes a 8.9231HF. Estimated 93%. My highest classifier ever, and if the online estimator is accurate, I just made A class!

Even with a mag gauge, you still need to know where to cut when you add the basepad back on. Measure, to the best of your abilities, the difference between a mag with the basepad and without a basepad (just the mag tube). The difference is the length added by the basepad. Take 171.25mm and subtract the basepad length you figured out. Cut the 33-round mag tube to this length and install the basepad (as mentioned, expoxy the Arredondo sleeve and clip on the pad.) Find someone with a mag gauge to check your work. (This is all theory BTW, I haven't actually tried it. Be sure to keep the angle of the cut the same as factory or else the basepad won't sit straight, and likely won't fit at all if it's too far off.)

Lots of info out there on this topic. I'm not reading the previous 18 posts before mine. I'll just say that a 6" can do everything a 5" can do, and so much more. Be sure to cut some reciprocating mass.

If you don't know what short-chambered means, or you do not understand the difficulty level of reaming a barrel, I'd suggest you find a good gunsmith. Send him your parts and some money. You should get something back that works. For an Open gun intended for 9mm major, contact John Larson, jplprecision.com. He knows how to put together a 9mm major about as good as anyone. I have about zero gunsmithing skills. JPL has done plenty of work for me and it's always right.

I like Ramshot Competition. Compares 1:1 with VV N320. In the G35 4.0gr should get you to major. I've gone as low as 3.2gr which gave about 140PF.

The D spring you're referring to is the hammer spring or main spring. Shouldn't matter what trigger is in your gun.

Me too. I want to lighten my G24 slide and give it some style. I've got my design laid out. Just need to sell my STI first.

See Appendix 4, 22.4. Internal may be beveled side to side, no changes externally. Front to back no more than .25 inch larger than the mag.

A trigger job can be done to get the pull weights down to that range.

For what gun?

Does the pistol have a rail? Is that the problem in finding holsters? Have you tried any Vertec holsters?

My G19 from 1998 has Meprolights. Good quality and still bright.

I like Ramshot Competition for all of my Limited and Production loads. From 135gr to 180gr bullets. Major or minor.

drooling...

My biggest concern in working up my load was making Power Factor with a load that worked my comp well. I never have shot groups for accuracy, but I can say that they seem to go where I point them. Steel falls.. when I shoot at it so no complaints here. I use Rainier 135gr.

I can't figure out why they would offer two separate triggers? The slide is one unit. I think the hammer is one unit. There is no way to fire just one barrel of the gun. If it did it would feed from the mag on both sides, so there would be a double feed jam. This thing is just totally ridiculous.

Depending on your project, getting just the frame might be the best bet. I think Glockmeister sells frames.