splashdown

I'd like to see someone get "MINIGUN" on a Mini Cooper.

Current model factory barrels offer as much chamber support as an aftermarket. I shoot moly bullets through a factory barrel without issue for production division. I think you'll find that the factory barrel will be just fine. Of course my two limited Glocks have Barsto and KKM barrels, but they came that way from the previous owners.

Hey there. I found USPSA when I was living in Ft. Lauderdale, then moved to Ft. Myers (2002-2003, then moved to WA state) You should buy your 550 through BrianEnos.com. I believe you get free shipping.

There's not enough time in a match to chrono two guns per competitor. Just chrono the primary gun. Not many guns need to be traded out during a match. I'd guess no more than a handfull at an Area match.

I haven't shot a Gen4, but I've fondled them at the gun shop. My only complaint is the mag release button. Sure it's larger and extended further rearward than previous generations, but there's something about it I don't like. I'd like to reverse it and try it on the right side, but haven't had the chance yet. For now, I plan on going with a Gen3 on any future Glock purchases. I have G19, G35 and G24. Would like to get the G23 next.

What malf? At what time in the video?

Wait another 7 months and it should be legal. But why? Don't want the sight radius advantage to go with that longer barrel?

Thanks. Can you tell I'm an engineer? I have to have a well thought out process in mind before taking the first step. What's the best bang for your buck factory ammo to get started with? I want something that will yield good brass for future reloading. I read somewhere that Black Hills was good.

It'll take around 6 lb to get 1000 .308 rounds and 1 lb will net about 2000 .45 ACP. Give or take.

So I've been wanting to learn how to shoot rifles. Not sure why yet other than to learn a new skill. Mostly want to punch paper, ring steel, and possibly hunt deer (have a friend who hunts and is eager to get more guys out there). I grew up shooting only handguns and that's been it for the last 23 or so years. I've been playing with the demo at shooterready.com and watching Ryan Cleckner (NSSF) on youtube as well as "The Road to Precision" on youtube. After all of this "book learning" on the ultranet, I now have a Remington 700 LTR in .308 on the way from Remington (bought the certificate here in the classifieds). I already have a crappy scope that I will use for the first couple of outings until I can afford something better. So here's what I think this learning process will be like: 1. Mount the scope and adjust/fit it to me. I have a 20MOA rail, blackhawk cheek pad and 6-9" bipod on the way. 2. Get some factory ammo, probably Black Hills, zero the scope and shoot some groups at 100yd. Get comfortable behind the rifle, learn the trigger, etc. 3. Get better scope. Looking at the Vortex Viper HS 4-16x44. Would love one of the Viper PST 4-16x50 FFP's, but there's no money for that right now. I might even wait until our annual bonus around Thanksgiving before making a scope purchase. 4. Get reloading gear. I have a 30% discount cert from Hornady that I plan to use before the end of the year. I think I'll get the single stage Lock n Load kit that retails for about $380, or about $270 after discount. Don't really have the money for a 550 or 650. 5. Start working up a load and go through the ladder testing I've read about to see what load the rifle "likes". Understand that this will be after I can hold a precise group on demand. 6. After settling on a load, map the rifle's trajectory, or "drop" at various distances. 7. Learn to read wind and shoot from prone, kneeling, offhand, etc. At my pace, I think I'll get to number 6 in about 4 years, . Number 7 may never come, who knows. I need a good coach and shooting partner to speed up my learning process. Is there anything I'm missing here? Anything out of order? I only reload .40S&W on a Square Deal. I have loaded some 9mm. I know nothing about loading for rifle. I've been reading up as much as I can here and I think I'll go through my ABC's of Reloading book and pay more attention to the rifle sections this time. I'm seeing topics such as full length sizing vs. neck sizing and trimming and all this case prep that I know nothing about. Help a noob out. Any tips?

Steel must fall to score. It's the Power in Accuracy/Power/Speed.

That would be interesting, but I'm not a 3-gunner so I'm not used to calling "HIT!!" on plates. I'm used to keeping my mouth shut when running a shooter b/c we're supposed to let them do it their own way without assistance or interference. The shooters would also not be accustomed to calling hits and could ask for a reshoot anyway under RO interference, even though it's not his/her position to ask. (Of course we know that if the RO interferes, the shooter will be offered a reshoot before seeing the hits or the time.) This (RO interference) is also the only case where a reshoot is optional. - interesting factoid.

If a steel plate is hit and fails to overturn or fall off the stand, you should stop the shooter and issue a reshoot for REF. Nothing says the plates should be hinged, but nothing prevents it either. They certainly are convenient though. We have some at our range, and they fail to fall all the time, especially with a partial hit or a hit from an angle. The official position is a reshoot under REF 4.3.1.6. My preference would be to discontinue the use of these plates.

To elaborate on what Yoshi said: When the trigger bar pulls back on the striker, compressing the striker spring, the only thing holding the slide closed is the recoil spring. If you go too light on the recoil spring, pulling the trigger will retract the slide some. This could cause an out of battery discharge. Danger! I haven't messed around with Glocks in open yet, so I can't tell you what spring weights make for good combinations.

Yep, flush fit = good to go.

Have no fear of the G24. If you already know and love the Glock platform, it's a good gun. I switched from Custom STI's back to Glocks recently, mostly for financial reasons. The G24 I picked up was all tricked out and I love it. I also have a G35 that I can use for production, but I don't shoot prod much. Why is the G35 more popular? It's more plentiful and legal to shoot in production whereas the G24 is not. It's more versatile and long enough for most people's needs. The sight radius on the G35 was the same as my custom 6" STI. The G24 is longer still.

It could be that gripping the G34 at speed in competition has you hitting a little high on the grip. I do it too. If I take my time, I can find a spot that feels high enough, but not such that the gun bites back. There is a small sweet spot to me. I prefer to be really high on the grip and so I get bit from time to time.

Yeah, they have a trade in where you send yours in, they replace the belt and send back a new one with your old buckle. I don't recall the cost, but it's not free. Good deal if you have the titanium buckle. That's the largest portion of the overall cost of the belt.

I've got a G35 holster that I had to open up to accept the G24. I can run my G19 in it as well. All the small frame Glocks (i.e. 26, 19, 17, 34, 17L) are dimensionally the same rearward of the ejection port and trigger guard, and down to the mag release. I'm talking about Gen3 here.

When I started out with my 40 open gun, I was testing with Bear Creek 140's. It was gunking up the comp pretty bad so I switched to rainier 135gr plated bullets. You must be digging out your comp somewhat frequently.

Sorry I missed it this year. Maybe next time.

I think your original question has been answered. (paraphrased: Why not a conversion barrel? What advantage would there be?) Are we done discussing it? We know the rule, we know why (bull barrel). What else is there to discuss? This ain't burger king (can't have it your way). Petition your AD if you want to see a change. I don't care either way. I'll just play by the current rules.

Sean, So you feel that 40-9 is OK, but 45-9 is way out of line? As I said before, you have to draw the line somewhere, and it has been drawn for quite some time. Aftermarket barrels are OK as long as they are the same length and caliber as the factory barrel. Also, there's no sense in questioning fiber optic front sights and trigger jobs at this point. We have mods that are allowed and mods that are not. If you want to suggest that USPSA considers allowing conversion barrels, talk to your AD. I'm not going to comment on the Limited div 500 parts rule. I'm just glad it's going away.

My daily use belt is the Wilderness Titanium CSM. I go right through the airport metal detectors with it. I get strange looks from the TSA b/c they were sure they would be sending me back to remove my belt. Good for CCW and therefore IDPA (I only did one intro to IDPA class. Not a regular IDPA shooter.)

I'm thinking the scratch on the brass is from the ejector rubbing on the case as the round is chambered. I also notice that in your first pic, the firing pin hit on the primer looks off center. Is it going fully into battery? Sorry to hear you're having problems. I handled the Shield for the first time today and it felt great in the hand. I wish Glock would get something in this category to market soon.