robport

I sure am glad we have all these USPSA people to tell us how badly IDPA sucks. I was getting confused. Glad I only thought I was having fun. Don't worry, I understand now.

Jim Jones is a Tanfo gunsmith. He runs J&L Gunsmithing in Chesapeake VA. http://jandlgunsmithing.com/

They were straight pallets. It advertises an available 180 degree field of view so you will get distortion on the edges close up. There are a lot of modes on it that I haven't really explored. It is much better then the Midland in the dark though and indoors, the Midland has a yellowish field. Ok, that's especially embarrassing. I had the Ion set on low resolution at 60 frames per second.

quote name="okorpheus" post="2617917" timestamp="1465270788"] Any follow up? Did you get one? How does it work for USPSA? I went ahead and bought one. I also got the mount that places it at the ear. It works well, but the WIFI is a little wonky. It does help setting it up though. I used it in West Virginia last week, but the battery ran down by the eighth stage or so. I switched to my old Midland, mounted on a hat brim and finished the match out. I use it to pick up on what I need to work on at the moment, which is still just about everything. I can see my hands better with the way the ION is located. It's on my Youtube training page (which is there to help me see my mistakes). You can get an idea just by watching the first two stages and fast forwarding towards the end where I switch cameras. Don't expect to see any great shooting though.

Do you have an odd chamber size in your limited Pro? I have a .40 limited pro and anything that passes the chamber gauge has also passed the plunk test. I was looking at getting a 9mm barrel for it...

I have a limited pro and I finally decided I would polish the trigger bar, or whatever you call it. The trigger return spring took about two hours or more to put back in and I felt it was due to a lucky shot. There has got to be a better way. No one would ever design something like this. Does anyone know the secret to getting it back in? I finally cut off a .3 piece of a closely sized Allen wrench, used a hemostat to hold the spring while I pushed the rest of the wrench in from the other side through the trigger and spring through the slide stop hole. Then I pushed the Allen wrench out with the small piece replacing it from the other side. I then pushed the whole assembly down to the right location, then screamed for my son to come in the room and tap the roll pin in until the assembly was stable. Before I figured out to do that, I heard words coming out of my mouth (as the spring flew across the room numerous times) that must have been spawned in the very pits of hell. The dogs and wife came in to comfort me and the wife dragged me out to lunch...and even bought. How should you actually do it?

No one in a squad wants to hear that, unless he is doing it for a specific audience. I never hear trash talk except when three or more of them come together. Most of those guys need someone else to show them how to shoot a stage, since they don't spend enough time thinking about it. If you can get a majority of your squad to agree, go ahead to the stage CSO and explain the problem and suggest he be called first on that stage (and every stage until he stops). The trashtalker shouldn't have a problem showing everyone else how to do it right?...since he is obviously superior to everyone else. After a few stages of that, he'll be complaining so much about being singled out that he won't be trashtalking anymore. It may work...it may not, but it's worth a try and would be memorable. ...or the drain plug thing....

I played with jacketed Blue bullets and Moly coated. Same thing....second bullet being pushed forwards but still inside the magazine. I think I explained the jams this past weekend though. During one of my practice mag changes, a bullet turned up through the magazine lips facing straight up and the one below it turned up next to it. That's what I remember the failure I had (three times in the last match) look like. Mag lips were .380 wide at the front...which brings me back to my original question. Does anyone know what the mag lip distance should be?

Thank you for the info. I cleaned the edge of the breach face up with a stone and polished the rib up with a Dremel. It is still doing it, though it could be less. I haven't been able to take it to the range yet for live fire. I plan some more polishing even though it feels very, very smooth. In the meantime, I removed the extractor and cleaned it very well and stoned down a small burr on it. The extractor feels very stiff after I put it back in, almost as if the roll pin is too big in the middle and dragging on the extractor. That may just be normal spring compression though. Every thread I see talks about using more spring tension for the extractor. The gun seems to throw the empty casing out as it should though when I rack the slide. I don't know if it is a problem with picking up the new round though. One gunsmith online said not to use .40sw coated bullets. Maybe I'll try that to.

I'm running a Tanfoglio Limited Pro in .40SW. I'm running 155 grain Precision (moly coated) bullets at around 133 PF with a 10 pound recoil spring. This past weekend, I ran out of Precisions and tried some 165 blue bullets with at least three double feeds (nice right?). It was not pretty. I haven't been able to duplicate the problem by hand, but I do notice that often, the second cartridge is dragged to the front of the magazine when cycling the previous cartridge. It does it to the point where the cartridge center is at the front pivot point of the magazine feed lips and looks like it could tip up to interfere with the one above it without much intervention. I've seen a lot about tuning magazines, but no actual dimensions for the feed lips. Does anyone know what dimensions they should be for my magazines? Could this also be an extractor tension problem or magazine spring problem?

First mistake: When getting ready for a match this past weekend, I decided to chrono some rounds (just in case), the night before leaving for the match. I should have done it with plenty of time and left them alone. Second mistake: I assumed that Titegroup was stable across lots and hadn't chronoed, after opening a new bottle of it. Three of ten rounds were low. With the same recipe, they were 10 PF lower. Third mistake: Have plenty of the bullets, of the kind you are used to, for reloading. I usually order 500 to 1000 at a time. I use Precision 155's and they couldn't fill my order for a month. They kindly sent me enough 170's to hold me over for free, but I had some 165 Blue bullets, so I loaded them in a hurry. Same powder, now very stable power factor 20 above minimum. Fourth mistake: I gauged checked the new bullets, but didn't chamber check them. Turns out I needed to make them another .010 shorter. The ogives looked the same, but weren't. Fifth mistake: I haven't practiced clearing malfunctions enough. Each took about 10 seconds. The result: Three major gun jams on two different stages and probably at least 5 failures to go into battery (I lost count) during reloads. It got so bad, I asked the match director for permission to switch guns. My backup gun is a different caliber and I had commercial ammo for that. I didn't place well...still had fun though...lol. ...and on the bright side...I didn't get run over by a rhinoceros, hit by a tornado, or carried away by aliens on any stage! Let me preempt those that will list playing in IDPA as one of the mistakes. Same thing would have happened in either sport.

I sympathize with you. It isn't gratifying to send someone home and I've only met one person who I thought enjoyed doing it. I hadn't been an SO for two weeks when I had someone pulled a gun out of his bag and carried it to the line unholstered. Someone else gave you great advice to remember that he earned it...you didn't give it to him. It's not easy to remember that during the time, but you have to.

Post up a video of your limited SA pretravel and throw. ... That was an interesting request/demand? I didn't have Mr. Jones work on my trigger though...at least not yet. I had him fix some problems with my slide and front sight and he's customizing some grips for me. If I do have work done on the trigger though, he will be the one I give it to.

J&L Gunsmithing is Jim Jones and I would say he is a specialist in Tanfoglio. https://www.facebook.com/JandLGunsmithing/?pnref=lhcPhone number is on that Facebook page. He does my Limited Pro and apparently, he did some work for some unknown fellow called Ben Stoeger.

I shoot a limited pro now. It sounds like you are looking for a "Frankengun". Check out the Walther Q5 Match. It's designed for the shooting sports and can carry a red dot sight out of the box. I haven't seen one yet, but it sounds like it should be added to your list to look at.

That may be true, but all of them had to be approved by the Area Coordinator for it to be sanctioned. I seem to remember some head shots that might have been more than 10 yards (I didn't measure), but can't remember seeing anything gross. That's not the only sanctioned match that had IDPA illegal stages. There have been a lot of them. Youtube is full of them. I'm sure the Area Coordinators do the best they can but some slip through.

From my information, it is still an IDPA match, and still covered by IDPA rules. It is not an "outlaw" match. It will be a large level 1 match and is just not "sanctioned." Level 1 matches do not get the headquarters "love" that sanctioned matches get (required approval of courses of fire, listing on the IDPA website and the appeals process). Look at it as a very large club match for which you won't get any IDPA match points (that's the only difference, in my opinion). There was some serious disagreement in how the appeals process was handled last year and a lot of confusion/disruption created when the IDPA process kicked in. If it wasn't for the match points, I don't think you would see any difference. I would go if I could.

Some people are saying in other groups that the only solution is to get new safeties off another model. They say that modification or even taking one side off moves you to ESP and out of USPSA production. I'm also hearing from a (SO trainer) that it doesn't matter, as long as it fits in the box and you don't have that shaft hanging out. I have been running mine without the strong side lever on, but running it in ESP. The shaft sticks out a little, but it fits in the box just fine. There seems to be a wide range of interpretations on this issue.

I can't see the need for the beavertail to exceed past the bottom of the pistol. I would also rather see the length up front to translate to sight radius, like on the limited pro. Some slight work on shortening the beavertail and thinning the safeties on the limited pro would have been perfect. The extra length of the limited pro up front probably makes up for any benefit of the longer dust cover. I agree that it should be priced a lot lower than a limited pro. Just my opinion though.

I see the error of my ways.

Limited Pro here: I'm just trying the Birchwood Casey Firearm grease that I got from BASS Pro. It's a red grease and it feels very smooth. I just got rid of a graphite-based gun grease that felt gritty. All the CLP's I've used on this gun are gone after 60-100 rounds (only gun of mine that does that). I've had the slow to react slide too, that I've had to slap in the rear to make go back into battery after reloads (and only after reloads). I had a gunsmith work on the rails, while I've polished everything else I could find in it. With no rounds in the gun, it feels a little rough as the barrel starts to come back up to lock up with the slide. I just polished the linkage part of the barrel, because there appeared to be a lot of tool marks on it. We'll see how that polishing work and the new grease work. I would definitely like to hear how slide-glide is working though.

Same exact thing; it was intermittent and it always happened in a match: when I did mine (a 4.5 XDM), I had to come back and shave a little more off the trigger. More than likely, you didn't shave it down exactly perpendicular to the trigger and frame, so instead of a hard stop, you have a soft slightly mushy stop where the elasticity of the plastic actually comes into play. I bet you have to sand some more. Test if first with at least 25 trigger pulls/resets. I bet one or two hang up on you. Keep taking material off until you get 100% clean trigger breaks.

Mine fits too, except for the width. I had to pull off the strong side safety lever to make it fit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2P5Azbwldys This is the problem. I don't know how much time I'm losing on it, but if it was just .5 seconds, I would have moved up 3 places in our last match...lol I've polished the extractor, loosened the extractor pivot pin, checked the slide area around the breech face for burrs/roughness and filed what I thought was a rough spot down, polished the firing pin retainer and the hammer where they contact...and readjusted the magazine feed lips. The round chambers smoothly, but the slide is stuck in the furthest aft most position. The gunsmith said it was sprung heavy enough and that he worked on the area where the slide contacted the firing pin retainer. I was supposed to check it tonight, but I can't go now. If he didn't fix it, I'll try to catch it in the act and stop. Maybe I can actually see where it is getting hung up. I have faith in him though. He's quite familiar with these.

It happened every reload in my last match, after not doing it with my snap caps in my nice warm house. It's in the hands of a gunsmith now.