BeerBaron

Honestly I don't see any point in the philosophy that says buy some cheap stuff to start and then buy good gear later. why buy twice? the proviso of course being that you can afford some decent gear right now. I would suggest: Daa or CR speed belt. (if you're unsure of what you like, get the CR speed. the DAA is more personal preference some LOVE it some HATE it but most are happy with a CR speed). the belt will serve you well regardless of division and will last ages unless you get really fat or really skinny! For mag pouches the DAA racer pouches are good, but I'd also recommend the CR speed versa pouches. They are very versatlie. both brands can be converted to different mag types and both can be converted to single stack too if that's a possibility down the track. both will fit on each others belts. basically any gear designed for 1.5inch belts will fit any brand belt. BUT the DAA is very slightly oversized which can make it harder to get some gear on (the benefit being it stays put, but I've never had any movement issues on a CR speed belt). I think a good belt and good mag pouches are a sound investment. you'll have no trouble using DAA racer or CR speed versa pouches in other divisions OR selling them used for probably 70% of what you paid for them. They are an investment in your shooting future. If funds are tight maybe get 3 or 4 of them, but aim to run 5 eventually. That is the standard. Especially if you're in a 10 round mag state. Aim to have 6 mags. one in the gun and 5 on belts and that way you are ready for any stage. for holster this is one thing I can see sense in saving a little money. a bladetech DOH is a proven performer among the budget holsters. it would serve you well. Otherwise if you plan to later on use a race type holster there is no reason not to buy one now. I've used the ghost and liked it. Also used the H&S CW5 and LOVE it. and the DAA race master is a great option too. I don't buy the idea that they are harder for noobs to use. they are actually very simple to use. the H&S CW5 is nice as it's quite light, small, has great locking and a very easy to flip locking leaver (if you want to draw locked), but even unlocked it keeps the gun very secure and will only come out straight up (as in a draw) and cannot fall out forwards very easily. it's cheaper than a DAA but of course only suits one model pistol. The DAA is super quality. aluminium body and mount, very nice positive locking like the H&S and has the benefit of being able to change blocks for different pistols. personally though I feel once you get different pistols you'll probably want a full rig for each. which can make a cheaper holster like the H&S more attractive if you go that route. for ear protection my current favourite balance between cost vs performance is the peltor tactical sport with a set of the peltor HY80 gel cups. should cost less than $150 for both bits and when fitted with the gel cups the NRR is above average, comfort is amazing and they have a very intelligent circuitry. they perform and feel almost as good as a set of $300+ muffs for half the price. eye protection is very personal and ranges from $5 to $600. I'll leave that to you!

in fact have a look on the aus site. http://www.tanfoglio.com.au/p/202/tanfoglio-limited-custom-hard-chrome.html you can see the limited custom GK is the black coating you described. so perhaps in some markets you can get a stock 3 special in that black GK as well as the nickel GK (which is the silvery greeny colour). Then look at the eric gold custom GK and it's the silver/green colour (which they call nickel GK). And the HC models are obviously the hard chrome. which is a really nice finish btw.

Oh, and for the OP, if you want the exact right bits of velcro, the ben stoeger pro shop has the velcro bits needed for the backs of the ghost mag pouches. $5. http://www.benstoegerproshop.com/Velcro-insert-for-Ghost-Magazine-Pouches-5-pack-p/ghost-velcro-5.htm I can't remember how much the mount for the bladetech holster separates with flat surfaces but from memory it is a bit. so add some velcro to the back of it too. a tip when putting on the adhesive velcro stuff. heat it up a little with a hair dryer (heat the part up a bit too). put it on and press it down nice and hard. then leave it for at least 48 hrs if not more (I generally leave it a week). if it's not stuck down 100% right all that will happen is it will come off and stay stuck to the inner belt.

it is a bit confusing, but from knowledge of a range of their models you can figure it out. Any of the HC models (like eric gold custom HC) are Hard Chrome. You can tell the hard chrome as the flat surfaces on the gun are super shiny and any rounded surfaces are slightly dull. Any of the GK models are the nickel finish. (like eric gold GK, or stock III special). It's a slivery greeny kind of coating. it does look different in different lighting. having said that it seems they do make a dark GK finish too which is almost black. the stock III (regular model) is black and the finish is blued. I have also not seen a hard chrome stock III. as far as I can see there are 3 finishes. standard which is blued (black colour). GK which is the nickel coating (stock III special) extreme which is GK nickel coated frame and black GK slide perhaps there is a black GK version too... this is hard chrome:

I would love to know this too. it's the one thing holding me back from buying one right now. I'm torn badly between a 7000pro and a shotmaxx. I like the wearability of the shotmaxx for training, but do want to record multiple strings so I can follow my progress. The fact that the shotmaxx only records one string is a real sticking point for me. I don't want to have to manually write down every string after I shoot it. I want them all saved so I can reveiw them later. If there's a likelyhood that there will be an app that will enable the shotmax to send strings to an iphone and save them there then that would be great. otherwise I think I'll have to buy the 7000pro and live with a belt clip or armband...

I have found the same kind of thing. I have an older CR speed belt too (around 2008 made). it has the plain inner belt (no CR speed lettering around the inside of the inner, and the belt keeper is embroidered, not the stamped rubber logo of the newer ones). This belt has the inner belt end tapered which is nice. The outer belt seems pretty much the same as later made ones. Mine has lasted fine. there are a few pulled bits of velcro as you'd expect being used at least once a week for 5 years. but the outer belt is still pretty stiff, doesn't seperate and works nicely with my production rig (H&S CW5 holster, CZ Shadow, 5 CR speed versa pouches). I too found the DAA a little too stiff. I'm now going to try the CR speed 'deluxe' version of the super hi-torque and see how that goes for my new rig. That is a shame you had that experience. As above I have a CR speed belt that is 5 years old and gets used every weekend with a decent-ish amount of gear on it. I'm not sure if perhaps their more newly made belts are not quite as well made as earlier ones. there was definitely a change in production when they went from plain inner belts to the ones printed with CR speed in blue.

that is awesome checkering done by eye! good job. it does look like a tanfoglio like kneelingatlas said.

I would suggest you consider the CR speed versa pouches. They are not the absolute smallest mount size, but smaller than some. You will be able to fit 5 behind the hip bone without having to reach around like you're getting out of a straight jacket for the last mag. They are super robust, come with a range of inserts and can mount of different angles. They are good pouches.

this is the blued model (I think what you have). http://www.tanfoglio.com.au/p/204/tanfoglio-stock-sport-pistol.html This is the GK coat (nickel coat) - also called the stock III special. http://www.tanfoglio.com.au/p/210/tanfoglio-stock-special.html the shiny finish ones are hard chrome (they call it HC) like the stock II. I think he has some spec/pic mixed up. the stock III special is the GK cote one. it seems the 'standard' stock III comes in blued or hard chrome in some markets.

The nickel coat is the GK coat. it's kind of a greeny/silvery colour. the black one is just 'blued'. it's not a GK coat. as far as blued guns go it's quite a nice finish but just be aware blued finish is no where near as tough as something like the GK coat... great gun though. and I like the wood grips too.

stock III is small frame. so yeah, order 9X19 small frame mags. for the standard blued one choose small frame and then stock/buzz. for the chrome one order small frame, 9X19, stock II. there is no difference between small frame mags for small frame stock II or small frame stock III.

nice! You have some awesome ideas mate. and even better to see you carry them out.

nimitz. I'm not sure about USPSA but if talking IPSC you should be able to use the mag release button from the SP01 shadow. not sure which pistol you have (custom built 75 seems to spring to mind?).

The bladetech DOH is a proven product. nothing fancy but it does work very reliably. I do totally agree with Saul's comments about getting a grip on the safety being a bad thing (providing we are talking SA only guns). In production shooting striker fired or double action guns it's not an issue. but in limited/standard/modified/whatever it can be. I know a shooter who got into the habit of (during the draw) putting strong hand on the gun, pushing the safety down with thumb all in one motion, then drawing the pistol. this was putting some downward pressure on the gun (from the palm of his hand) as the safety was coming off. Unfortunately a number of factors conspired together and he ended up shot in the leg. fortunately he was not seriously injured but it was still a nasty incident and surely gave him a hell of a fright. Contributing to that was a pistol (won't say which brand) that had a trigger with some side to side play. a holster (semi-race type) which was a universal type holster and you fit it to the model pistol you have by swapping out little spacers/inserts. in this case one set made it too loose and another set too tight so it was never fitted 'just right'. so on that day as he flicked off the safety and pushed down with his grip the trigger got pushed to the side a little (outside the trigger guard) and being single action only with a nice light trigger the friction in the holster was enough to cause it to fire... avoiding the chance of that ever happening is not a bad design idea. unfortunately as someone pointed out most users of concealment type holsters (like the PDR) are shooting production (not using the safety in double action of course), and if they are shooting single action guns in limited/standard/whatever then they are most likely using a race holster. It is still a valid idea, just possibly not valid for many of us.

yeah the DAA belt is no doubt the stiffest of the nylon type velcro belt systems. in fact I know a couple of people have complained that the outer was a little too stiff for their liking (making it hard to conform to the inner and causing it to separate at times - solved by adding extra 'keepers'). but others have told me there is no such thing as a outer belt that is too stiff and absolutely love theirs. If you don't need to have the absolute stiffest out there the CR speed belt is quite good. mine is 5 years old and still plenty stiff enough for me. it's never ever looked like getting separated during a match. having said that, my next belt will be DAA just to give it a try.

I have not seen any S3 extreme here in my country either. if I was you I'd buy the stock 3 special and buy the hammer, and firing pin (already have a brand new sear since it's a new gun, but could get a new sear if you wish). then get whatever grips you want, and get the guiderod if you want. I agree the GK cote on the stock 3 special is a great finish.

it is a new gun and a few little high spots will wear off pretty quick. feralshooter has a good handle on it though. check the grips and also make sure you are not overpressing the mag release button as if you press it too hard the underside of the button holds the mag. personally I think after a few practice days it'll be gone.

yeah as long as it doesn't interfere with grip and doesn't interfere with the Cmore/mount then run it any side you want. as guys posted, some people have to mount one side or the other due to a number of reasons: interfering with scope mount or scope. if mounted to the left can interfere with parts on some holsters interfering with grip but as someone said you can mount it to the right and still rack with your left hand. just a small tilt and away you go. left is still probably my preferred side. enjoy.

mine rattle like a bastard but they are reliable as hell. no problems with feeding and no real tuning needed from me. I have 8 of them and they are about 5 years old. just in the last little while when I messed with the finish 4 now no longer lock back the slide on empty. think it's time for new springs or followers or both.

This is the one I settled on after some research. I have them on order from Midway, so if they don't work out for any reason I can return them. Thank you for the feedback. Chris Chris, you can buy gel cups for those muffs from skygeek. http://www.skygeek.com/hy80.html model is HY80. From memory amazon or midway sell them too. should be around $50 landed for you or less. and they are worth every penny. they create multiple seals so are perfect for wearing with glasses. they provide all day comfort and they enhance the NRR. no doubt.

I can see why people who haven't used electronic muffs before may like the howard leight impact sports. but honestly, they are $50 because they are worth $50... they are definitely the absolute bottom end of muffs. cheaply made, cheap uncomfortable materials... electronics are basic at best. they are no where near enough protection for someone shooting an open gun. I would otherwise recommend the peltor tactical sports (not tactical 6 which are rubbish) and replace the standard cups with gel cups which enhance comfort and enhance the NRR too. but even with gel cups I feel you'd probably want a little more protection. I am not a big pro-ears fan but they don't have a lot of following in my country. and can be expensive here. if you find them comfortable then go for it. something 28NRR or above is probably the way to go.

That's interesting. Here in Australia we got small frame stock ii's (9mm) and large frame stock ii's (38 super). So far the stock iii's have all been small frame 9mm.

Yep. Eerw's pic is what I was (clumsily) trying to describe. Thanks eerw.

Other side of the trunk. But that was to give me a little longer reset in sa. Your issue sounds like its in the da.

Im on my iPhone so please bear with me. The area in your red square is what I call the ears/wings. The trunk/leg is the big long part. Try and picture how it works. In da mode the trigger bow is pushing on the discos ears (which is pushing the hammer back). The part in my problem was in sa mode. It's the width of the trunk/leg that affects the sa pre-travel and reset. Compare it to a factory disco. The trunk is much thicker. In my case a little too thick. So a little had to be removed from the back face of the leg. If you look at what you've indicated in red and call that the front surface of the wings. The surface you need to work on (I believe) is the underside of those wings. Just under your red square. When I'm on a pc I'll do a pic. Or someone smart like feral shooter or kneeling atlas will help.