BeerBaron

Ok, I have shot it now. I'm very happy. it may be partly placebo effect but it just feels very tight in the hand and it was basically shooting POA out of the box. Love the sight picture. love the way it shoots. think I will buy another one. just like in canada for some reason the orange model will cost more than the 'mate' version. even though spec is basically the same. I love my little mate.

do you want a duty style holster or are you willing to try a 'race' holster. I personally found a race holster holds the gun more securely (some open bottom duty holsters can let the gun get pushed up and out) and puts zero wear on the frame. I love my H&S CW5 for my shadow. holds very securely with the lock on and still securely with the lock off (will only come out if you pull it straight up). The other option (and a better one if you have a couple of different comp guns) is the DAA Race Master. Given it has interchangeable blocks it's cheap to convert it to another gun. it's a better made holster but it's a bit heavier than the CW5. both are pretty light though.

I just ordered some of the extreme 2 grips for my stock II large frame. went for silver but black does look sexy. making me have second thoughts..... dammit!

it all depends on how 'positive' you like the reset. it obviously will reset a little slower and with less force than with a stronger spring. if you are one who ride the reset it could cause a problem. if however you get your finger right off the trigger between shots there is no downside really.

I believe feral shooters description is on the money. I'll try and get a pic for you of my slide/ breech area that he's talking about (it's my old shadow he;s reffering to).

I am with 85 combat. forget the safety. it's a double action pistol and as such carry condition is best with hammer down and safety off. When the adrenaline is pumping are you going to want to fumble with a safety? just pull it out, aim, and shoot. it's plenty safe that way. otherwise consider cocked and locked as advised above. but if it were my carry pistol I'd feel much safer hammer down safety off than cocked and locked.

I know this is kind of an old topic but thought I'd bring it back. I have been shooting a CZ SP01 shadow for a while and recently bought a tanfog stock II. At this point I haven't shot the tanfo more than a handful of times but that will change soon and I'll update my feelings then. To throw a spanner in the works I also recently bought a shadow mate australia which is a somewhat souped up version of a shadow (hand fitted barrel and slide, all the hot up bits - comp hammer, grips, steel guiderod etc and springs). The CZ is a very capable gun and if trigger is important to you then it's possibly the better choice. The trigger bar spring and plunger on the tanfo combined with the very short strut and short mainspring mean it's at a disanvantage from the get go. it also has a wobbly trigger from the factory which i've heard is a pain to correct. The CZ on the other hand has a nice long strut and mainspring just like a 1911 (goes right down the length of the backstrap of the grip). It also doesn't have a firing pin block (some argue the tanfo FPB does not add to trigger pull but to me it's one more friction point I don't need). On the other side though tanfo has a lovely match grade bull barrel with poly rifling (jury is out on it vs traditional rifling) and cone lock-up (there is no doubt this is a good thing). It also has a heavier muzzle end of the frame and feels better balanced in the hand (is heavier than the CZ overall too). it has a wider grip and beautiful checkering on the front and back straps (CZ needs skate tape to get close). THe slide serrations are deep and wide and easy to use. the CZ ones are a bit 'hows your father''... the stock 2 comes with LPA adjustable sights and the slide is milled out to enable them to be mounted low. Fitting wise the tanfo has very tight slide to frame fit and very nice barrel lock-up. the extractor is nice and beefy vs the CZ one. In shooting I feel like a tanfo set-up nicely with springs enables quicker second shots but possibly a little slower transitions. CZ is still one hell of a gun and the trigger can be made to be amazing just using factory parts and some dry firing (no gun smithing needed really) which is great if you want to stay legal in IPSC production... my stock II is something of an abortion. It's a 38 super (so large frame) but I run a 9mm barrel to shoot 9mm but still use the 38 super mags. time will tell if it's reliable like that or not. I'll update after a few months shooting the tanfo. it is the muxh nicer looking gun if looks are important.

Picked up my shadow mate Australia today. Have not shot it yet but I LOVE it. Spec was very slightly different to what I posted. Mainly no ammo loader. 3 shock buffs (all thick) instead of 5. 4 main springs (hammer springs to you guys), 3 recoil springs and 2 firing pin springs. Probably what I live the most is (in order). The finish. The matte look cerakote type finish is really nice. The fit. Slide to frame fit feels very tight. The sight picture. The narrow front sight with 1mm fibre and the 'defender' rear sight is a great combo. It's a lot more gun for the extra money over a regular shadow. I'm thinking hard about buying a second one.

Yeah you have better self control than me feralshooter. Though I think you may crumble once you have it. Having said that your "regular" shadow with pre-b disco, comp hammer, henning grips etc is very nicely setup now. it probably shoots better than the mate will out of the box. Tough call. I think we both know the best answer is to buy 2. One to warm the safe and one to shoot.

Thanks guys. I thought you might be interested. I forgot to add the finish on the frame and slide looks a little different too. More like a cerakote or parkerised finish instead of the normal polycoat. Basically more of a matte look. Can't wait to shoot it now.

If its a shadow there is no roll pin (it uses the back plate) and no firing pin block. You are free to dry fire the crap out of it. The firing pin block guns may be worth treating a bit softer but a shadow can dry fire all day long.

they look great in real life. very nice deep gold colour.

I doubt you'd notice much difference at 25 yards. at 50 yards I could imagine seeing a small reduction in group size. I guess the difference is these will all be fitted much tighter. with a usual shadow you will get some that are super tight and some a bit less tight. that is the luck of factory built guns. with this being a custom gun you can be assured all the accu shadows will be tight as can be. it's basically for people who want the assurance there is no doubt that there equipment is letting them down. though I doubt many people shooting a regular shadow are being let down accuracy wise at typical USPSA/IPSC distances...

The screw size is 3.5mm (#6 washer) The Shadow comes with a standard TRS, but I highly recommend a CGW RP TRS, it's good for about 8oz reduced pull weight. ok, you've talked me into it! the hassle for me is CGW won't ship parts (even parts like springs that are legal for export without a licence if under $100) to australia. Any enthusiast CZ shooter want to help a long distance brother out and post me a couple of springs??? I would love a couple of CGW bits.

Hi Guys, Unlike you lucky shooters in north america we in this little convict colony don't have a really wide range of customised shadows to chose from (no accu shadows etc). We do have great support from the aus distributor and do get all the basic CZ factory models. Including now a new limited to 100 units model. It's basically the 2012/orange spec gun but with special limited edition grips (in gold with aussie flag inside a stylised map of aus). Also gold base pads. So the spec is basic CZ 75 SP01 Shadow with these changes/improvements: handmade barrel matching and precise slide side setting Improved trigger mechanism (this is mainly just the comp hammer and possibly some extra care with tolerances, it doesn't have the short reset, or the super light pull of a 'trigger job') polished barrel metal polished recoil spring guide (aka steel guide rod) polished recoil spring + recoil spring set (13 lbs. And 11 lbs.) polished main spring + main spring set (13 lbs. And 16 lbs.) buffer set (3x thick, 2x thin) The limited edition gold colour aussie spec grips 4x magazine with aluminium magazine bottom (orange) defender type rear sights (these differ from the normal shadow sights) and red fiber optic front sight 5,5 x 2,5 x 1 mm (I much prefer the narrower front sight with the 1mm fibre over the stock shadow sights) newly designed sa/da hammer (aka comp hammer) cleaning oil, loader, cd, polymer case comes with the czechmate case (very nice inserts) Comes with a cleaning kit limited to 100 units comes with hat and t-shirt it has the aus spec 125mm barrel of course too. When I saw one and saw the price was approx $200-$250 over a regular shadow I bought one instantly. The comp hammer alone is $80 + $120 for a gunsmith to fit it here in aus. So that $200 gets you a lot of extra gear. Here are some basic pics I took with iphone (apologise for the quality). I don't know now whether I want to shoot it (being a limited run pistol) or keep it in factory condition. Maybe I need to buy 2?! Who am I kidding. I will want to shoot the hell out of it! I should say a big thank you to Paul at PBA imports who makes this stuff available to us in our little country and lobbies CZ factory to provide this kind of stuff to the enthusiast CZ shooting australians.

shadow comes with standard TRS. personally I like a nice positive trigger reset. I would leave it alone.

Yeah, if using factory ammo exclusively I wouldn't go lower than 13lb. If using your own loads with federal primers you could go down to possibly the 11 of the CGW 11.5 is supposed to be a good option (I have not tried it myself).

cutting a coil doesn't really change the weight. I would not cut the recoil spring. it will no longer be captive at full extension. just buy the different weight springs. you don't need a full set. I'd start just with another spring in 11lbs. you will probably find with minor loads 11 or 13 pounds is just right.

very nice looking shad jeff o. love the titanium cerakote.

also, I'm not a fan of froglube. a few mates here who have tried it on their shadow's had a few malfs after they started using it. have switched away from it and everything is fine again. i know that is pretty slim anecdotal evidence. but it's enough for me to not want to use it.

I have used kleenbore oil. mpro7, break free and slide glide (lite). my current practice is. clean barrel with bore snake, brush and patches. add some of the kleenbore or mpro7. oil up a patch and wipe it all over the external area of the tube part of the barrel, and especially the hood where it locks into the slide. few drops of oil in the corresponding part of the slide where the barrel locks into it. I don't put any oil on the feedramp (I wipe it with a clean patch at the end). put a drop in the back of the hammer where the hammer hooks meet the sear. drop on the trigger return spring from the top. a drop on each of the 2 little rails inside the frame where the barrel sits drop into the sear cage/disco area drop on the mag release spring inside if you have a steel guide rod rub it with an oiled patch (plastic rod doesn't need any lube) a little drop in the mainspring area the slide stop again rub it's shaft with an oiled patch for the slide rails (both on the frame and the slide) use either some drops of your favourite oil, or slide glide. you don't need heaps. some decent dobs here and there and it'll spread itself out nicely. cycle and dry fire it a few times and wipe off the excess and you're good to go. once in a while when it's dirty (so probably every 10-20 cleanings) I give it a good blast out with brake cleaner (brake cleaner is best as it evaporates and leaves no deposits or residue behind). you'll be amazed at the shit that comes off with a good burst of brake cleaner...

hmm, this is odd. I have the CR speed versa pouches and they work fine with the regular inserts (with nothing added) and the adjustment cranked right in. Mine are quite an old set (maybe 4 or 5 years old), I wonder if they've changed the inserts a bit. It does suck a bit that you guys have all had to play around with random bits of hardware to make them work. I do like the velcro idea though. adds a bit more hold and also protects the mag surface a bit.

red dot will work but it's the opposite end of the scale (too fast burning). it's equivalent to a powder here called AS30 which is a shotgun powder but it can be used in 9mm minor. The hassle is it's such a small load both by weight (in the 2.5gn range) and by case volume. makes it dangerously easy to miss a double charge (depending on press of course). it can also be a bit inconsistent. the 3n is a bit too slow burning to be useful in a 9mm minor load. here's a table that may help (it's put out by the aussie company ADI that produce hodgdon's powder among others). powders start fastest burning up the top and get slower as you go down the table right up into rifle powders. http://www.adi-powders.com.au/handloaders-guide/equivalents.asp some popular US powders are missing unfortunately but many are on there. As a guide in australia AP100 is very popular open gun powder. and even it is a bit faster than 3n37, ideally you'd want to swap for some N320 or even N330. but in a pinch the red dot is probably better to use than the 3n37.

markiemark. you're assumptions are correct. guns with comps and/or ported barrels need a much higher volume of gas to make it work effectively. after a certain point of going up in powder charge it's not creating much more muzzle lift but it's starting to create a lot more gas which is now exiting out the top and sides of the comp which is now starting to keep the muzzle pretty steady. you will still get a bit of dot rise but once the comp is running in it's sweet spot it will be manageable. They tend to like a slower burning powder than a minor load to keep it burning down the barrel and producing a nice big volume of gas. Find some guys shooting a similar set-up to you and use their loads as a starting point (start a bit lower and work up to it though). the trubor is a serious piece of gear. you should have a lot of fun getting it dialed in and shooting it.

somewhere between 10 and 13. 11 seems to be most popular with a 124gn pill shooting at around 130pf. they are cheap and easy to change. try a couple...