JBOT5000

Have C-rums cut off that stupid cantilever rail was worth it's weight in gold. You'd be surprised how heavy that thing is. I would also recommend C-rums trigger job worth every penny and actually makes the slp much closer to my JP single stage trigger. I recently had a match saver and it's awesome.

I second the versa max and ship it off to c-rums. I spent way to much on my custom versa max and if i had to do it over again i would buy the sportman in 26" barrel length buy the carbon arms 10+1 kit, welded lifter, bolt handle, release, mill for rear sight, trigger job, shorten the stock and you're set. I'm a smaller guy and sometimes I jam up the benellis by not holding the shotgun tight enough. I recently shipped my slp which was giving me problems to jeff he fixed the lifter issue, cut the stock and did a trigger job runs 100% now finally.

I remember there was some sort of problem with the firing pin retaining pin last year. Mine ended up having a problem as well and had to be replace you might want to grab one just in case. The magazine spring is a must for some reason my versa max was very sensitive to magazine spring strength and needed to have a lot of power to feed correctly.

I was afraid to try it at first but after reading up hear I decided to just jump in. It is easier than it looks even if you've never done it. I took a plain jane soldering iron and just started lightly pressing on my shotgun stock and forend. Go slow and the nice thing is if you hate it most shotguns are pretty cheap to replace the plastic stock and forends. Once I did it once I was hooked. Go for it man, fortune favors the bold!

I have experienced and see many people have semi auto shotgun malfunctions all the time and personally wouldn't trust my life to them. The marines are using the benelli M4's but i haven't heard a first hand report on how it's working. I can tell you that I and my wife use Remington 870's for duty use and my military friends use them for breaching. These shotguns are dependable and i ran an 870 in three gun for the first year. My current home defense 870 has a 21 remington barrel, nordic extension and barrel clamp for 8+1 capacity, surefire/streamlight light forend, and the enadine hydraulic stock kit with limbsaver pad to cut down on recoil. I use an SLP in 3 gun but for me but i trust my life and the lives of others to my glock, my 870 and my colt m4 at home and work. These guns always go bang for me.

For rifle length stocks I like the PRS since it brings the rifle balance back to the rear and can be set up specifically for me. For carbine length stocks I like the sopmod the most or the enhanced sopmod the checks welds are great and you can adjust the length. I ran the MOE rifle stock but the rear angle of the stock was weird to me and seemed to get in the way when i tried to shoot it laying on my side on one particular stage. I got rid of it after that. to each their own.

I shot the hornady 75 grain steel match yesterday from my 18 jp barrel and was getting 2600 fps. The production was halted for a while on these but they are finally coming back in stock now so you may be able to find them now. I just picked up a few hundred from cabelas and I saw a bunch of 308 and 223 steel match at my local Academy (southern sporting good store).

I would personally get a 7.5 barrel with the adams arms piston kit to keep some of that nasty blowback out of the rifle, with my buddies we can sit in the driver's seat and raise the rifle with no problems with the steering wheel. If you're going DI then the 11.5 barrel is considered the most reliable barrel length which will also give you decent velocity. Since this is basically a PDW I wouldn't worry too much about the barrel you're not trying to hit at 500 this is a close quarters weapon shooting minute of man. BCM, Daniel Defense, voodoo barrels, wilson combat they're all good to go no worries.

I shot my DPMS 3g1 yesterday which comes factory with the JP trigger reliability kit ie the yellow trigger spring and RED hammer spring. This is the minimum power kit that JP recommends for the 308 platform. IF you're shooting military ammo you may need a little extra power for reliable ignition you will probably be okay though. It it's easy to switch to the JP full power spring if you need to.

I would never mount plastic to a gas block if you plan on getting after it hard. It can get crazy hot especially where i live when temps already reach a 100 in the summer. If you are just going to shoot three round groups then walk to your target you'll be fine if your going to empty two to three mags back to back don't do it. Gas blocks are for iron sights pretty much.

I run the streamlight m3 at work and the military uses it extensively as well it is cheap and works great. Impact weapons components makes one that had a pretty cool integrated switch called the inforce. If you're interest amazon has been running some crazy surefire 500 lumen x300 u deals. That light is insane and blows my streamlight out of the water in brightness. I use this on my duty handgun and would run it on my duty rifle if I was allowed to change that light (government rules make no sense as usual). Last option is to just buy a mount with the light ring and put a regular flashlight with end cap in it. Most people already have a streamlight or surefire hanging around and you can now make it dual purpose.

I seem to be a muzzle brake junkie for some reason. Here is what I've experienced, the battle-comp is great for tactical real world work cuts muzzle flash and recoil best in class for that type of brake. For the competitive world the miculek brake is hard to beat for the money and you can drill holes in that sucker for further customization. My JP brake is great, looks cool as hell and it is matched to my JP barrel, it is the brake I use the most. I bought a sjc titan muzzle brake but it was so damn heavy I sent it back since i was building a light weight build. I imagine it would of been a great muzzle brake, just based on the weight alone it would be hard to move the end of that barrel. I just purchased a Carbon Arms/Dynamic muzzle brake, it is tiny and works very well I would put it a slight notch below the large profile comps. I've yet to shoo the rolling thunder comp. I've read that the JEC seems to be the most popular precision rifle series muzzle brake but i don't run in that world. In summary: tactical=battlecomp value=miculek light weight build=dynamic research heavy build=sjc complete bought rifle=JP cooley Pick your category goal.

with your current rifle I would build a 16 inch piston gun, you don't have one and I think it would be a good experiment for you. Through an adams arms kit on you 16 inch and experience a piston rifle and see if it's for you.

Ii've run SFP in my Burris MTAC and now my Bushnell 1-6.5. I really like how large the reticles are for close range work, it is very similar to the EOTECH i run at work. I put the big circle on the target and pull the trigger. I hear a lot of complaints from people who are unhappy with the size of a FFP reticle at 1x. A few scopes i know of are designed on this principle such as the SWFA SS 1-6 and the us OPTICS SR-8. If you're going FFP look for scopes like this which were designed for action shooting form the get go.

I run a bad lever and the mag on the left so I can grip it quicker with my left hand for the change. Another option if you want to monopod with it is use the nordic 18 round extension for me it is the perfect hight for prone shooting. I only run coupled mags when prone shooting. Any other time the mag couplers just slow me down and it's faster to load from my belt.

The larue is great and you can find used ones quite often for a good discount. If you want a qd mount that is cheap and works, the burris PEPR is great don't overlook it. Quite frankly the bobro, spuhr etc are way more mount than you need for 3 gun. The price of those mounts are for people that are shooting in precision matches and LE/MIL life and death scenarios.

To the OP put a red trigger spring in it JP has on their sight that this spring is for more reliable ignition of military and cheaper ammo. I just put the yellow spring kit in a RRA and it gave me problems since the trigger was so new it was having trouble resetting. I will try it again after the trigger has broken in. The biggest problem with the RRA trigger and JP springs is that the biggest benefit is the disconnector spring which is a pain to replace in a RRA trigger.

Another thing to look at is the heat issue. My non free float knights armament tubes get hot as hell when I start getting on them hard at work. Its not fun to burn your hand in the middle of a stage. The free floats are more accurate, run cooler and have a lot more options on the market.

Burris no question best value to start, I just moved on to the Bushnell 1-6.5 which had a very similar reticle to the MTAC so it was an easy transition for me.

Burris no question best value to start, I just moved on to the Bushnell 1-6.5 which had a very similar reticle to the MTAC so it was an easy transition for me.

I use the JP, remember for the most benefit of a low mass setup you need to run an adjustable gas block and preferably a lighter weight buffer. If you want a poor man's version mill down a bcg, mill a set screw into your gas block and disassemble a carbine buffer and remove one weight and replace with something to fill the gap (delrin etc.). I wouldn't recommend that way at all but it's an option. Just pony up and buy the JP gas block, jp lmos buffer and SCS. I love my set-up.

a 14.5 barrel is great and can do anything you need in three gun no problem. Downside is the whole pinning a muzzle brake thing is a pain in the ass and I personally like to experiment with different brakes all the time, if you have an SBR tag this is a non-issue. a 16 barrel is easy to find and you can swap the brake out without issue, problem is why not just add the extra two inches and get the rifle length gas system for the extra benefit of it's recoil impulse and a slight increase in muzzle velocity. Another option is the voodoo ultra light weight barrel I've been eyeing recently seems to be a great compromise between length, weight etc. Many pro 3 gunners are switching to shorter barrels because of the shorter ranges and the faster pro courses.

I use a VTAC padded sling with an impact weapons components single point adapter. I run qd mounts at the end of my rifle (by magwell) and I have a troy bolt on QD mount on the buffer tube and a qd mount in the stock. With this setup I have multiple options to go two point or single point on the fly. There is also a spec ops version that is a little cheaper in price and quality my wife runs it on her rifle.

I currently have a JP and shot it yesterday i was getting 1/2 moa with Hornady steel match 75 grain while shooting half assed just to test the round out. Amazing barrel but expensive and worth every penny. The nordic is the best bang for the buck and Mark at carbon arms can tell you about it all day long. I would take a look at the voodoo 18 inch ultra light weight barrel if you want a light weight build.

Three deep breaths before anything you do under stress can decrease your heart rate by 50%. This is a long standing performance psychology observation. Many swat teams will have their guys do this in the van before they get to the target location. Try to get your breaths in while you are standing in the box so you are getting the 3rd one done by the time you are ready to shoot. While you are shooting make sure to force yourself to breath every time you move just in case you are holding your breath without realizing it. I come from the martial arts/fighting competitive sports also and making sure that you are breathing every time you strike or attempt a grappling move ensures you are breathing that is why you will hear a boxer make a weird exhale sound when they punch.