mgrs

I've read the non-rec for TG from a couple companies. Does it burn hotter than everything else? (never used TG)

I load that bullet to just over 1.15 and it "plunks" fine in my factory or aftermarket glock barrels. I load mine with 3.8 of WST.

In addition to what has been mentioned, I find that my locking block pin will start to walk out of the frame over time with too light a spring, as the barrel lugs seem to impact the locking block harder.

55gr Hornady bulk 77gr Nosler CCs Both are a pretty good balance of price and quality.

I also had to go cam over with my dillon size/trim die to get it to pass a wilson gauge. I was worried I was setting the shoulder back too far, but have not noticed decreased brass life.

I do the same. If I am at, or exceeding, book max loads, I will sort by lot to avoid too much variance. Lighter hoser loads, I use mixed brass (trimmed with an RT1200) and keep re using it until splits appear in the shoulder or primer pockets loosen. This always seems to happen before other failures.

Good thing is there are many powders out there that will work. I'll echo some others in that I am really liking 8208XBR. It acts almost like a short cut stick version of TAC. Works with a wide range of bullet weights and can generate MK262 velocities in a 5.56 chamber going a little over .223 book max. Others that have not been mentioned: Alliant r10x- short cut stick powder for light bullets. I like it with 55gr, but the book max will only get me to 2850 in an 18" Alliant PP 1200R- ball version of the above Alliant 2000mr- Ball version of R15. Good for 69gr and up. IMR 4064- OK with heavy bullets, but not great. Frustrating to meter. Alliant Reloder 15- Good for heavy bullets.

Some good ideas here. I would add that I like to neck expand/deburr inside the case mouth with a slightly backed off sizing die in station 1 of the loading (second) toolhead. The reason is that, with some brass, if I wait too long after the brass goes through the processing toolhead and I tumble the lube off, the necks will spring back just tight enough to shave minor slivers of jacket. This allows me to neck expand on the downstroke seconds before seating.

I really want to like these shoes (Salomon XA Pro 3d). I bought them as light hiking shoes due to the low price on Promotive. However, I can't get them to stay tight. I can draw the laces tighter than normal shoes, tuck in the cinch, and they will loosen in a few minutes. They are irritating to walk in, and running is not even an option, as I am constantly stopping to tighten the shoe. They will even come loose on a rowing machine. Any best practices? I want to try the Speedcross as a trail runner due to the lower price than similar shoes. Could it be a foot volume issue, i.e., my arch is not high enough to cause the lace cinch to hold at the right angle?

I shot about 5000 Xtreme 115gr, 124gr, and SNS 125gr LRN with red dot. It worked. My thoughts on red dot in 9mm: Minuses: Meters poorly Dirty Smoky More primer flow than other powders I've used in 9mm at same velocity- high pressure? Pluses: Easy to ID in the powder system cheap (promo is the same stuff) small charges so it goes a long way Neutral: Sharp/fast, almost violent recoil impulse compared to other fast powders. Red Dot Loads I used: 125gr SNS LRN 3.4gr at 1.135 OAL 75F 1053AV 45ES 21SD 1040LO 131.2PF Had to use a 13lb recoil spring. It was not reliable with anything heavier. ETA: I have been using WST since using up that 4# of red dot. I find it to be softer shooting (subjective), cleaner, and meters better. The odd stovepipes I was getting with red dot at the same PF also went away.

I have had a similar problem when combining a 13# spring, dirty gun, and magazine full-loaded. With the 17rd magazine downloaded to 10, I never see it. If I am shooting factory ammunition or hotter reloads, I use a 15lb spring or the factory RSA.

I also like a 13lb ISMI spring and rod at minor PF. 1) The lighter spring is more reliable in my pistol than stock weight with ~130 PF, heavy bullets, and small charges of fast powder. 2) It feels like the recoil impulse is over sooner and the gun shoots flatter with a neutral grip. This might be subjective, but the sight picture returns more quickly than the more gradual upward track and more pronounced dip as the slide snaps back into battery of a heavier spring.

I don't use a lube die on my 650. I use dillon spray lube on a box of cases and then dump the box into the casefeed. I do end up having to wipe out the casefeed once in a while. Toolhead 1: 1. Universal decap die 2. empty powder die 3. nothing 4. Size/trim die 5. nothing The dies are lowered to be level and cause some overcam to prevent uneven sizing/trimming. Brass is tumbled to remove lube. Toolhead 2: 1. .223 size die backed out 2 turns (expanding the case mouth on the down stroke and clearing the flash hole) 2. Powder drop 3. Nothing 4. Seat 5. crimp (not always in use. I guess it might be smarter (as mentioned by rjacobs above) to neck expander on the processing tool head after trimming, but this setup seems to work fine and I don't have to buy another die... I find that with the dillon trim die, I do not need to camfer/debur. The dillon trimmer cuts great and does not leave a burr I can feel. Tumbling after processing seems to blunt the squared edges. The neck expander does the same to the inside. I find that the case necks mike at .218 give or take depending on lot after the trim die and then .221 after the neck expander. I get enough neck tension to run fine in gas guns. I also only use boat tail bullets. I

Update from chrono today: SNS 147gr TC 1.145 OAL 3.0 WST Mixed brass Federal SP 878 AU 20 ES 8SD 129 PF 3.0 seems light, but I confirmed weight with both a calibrated Dillon and lee scale. Glock 34 with KKM barrel. Soft shooting, I like this powder.

I've driven the Xtreme plated bullets well over 1200 FPS with no practical loss of accuracy or leading in factory glock barrels.

Yep. I've been using red dot, WST, and Power Pistol because they were what I could find. There are probably much better powers than WST, but it meters well, charges are light, and it does not smoke too badly. I just got over 8000 rounds out of a 4# jug of red dot

This is my data unique to my guns, so please back it off for the starting load and go carefully and make sure the OAL is compatible with your weapon. Xtreme (RMR) 115gr Plated @1.150, Federal SPP 5.3gr PP 1175 AV 18ES 7SD 135.5 Power Factor Xtreme (RMR) 124gr Plated @1.150, Federal SPP 5.0gr PP 1104 AV 37ES 14SD 137 PF These are more powerful than necessary for minor PF, but were created to reliably cycle stock glocks with factory recoil assemblies. For what it is worth, I find that the Xtreme plated bullets work very well in factory glock barrels, as the plating is very thick. Also, be careful with your crimp- crimp as if you were shooting cast lead unless you want to mangle the plating. In all, I would not buy these bullets if real FMJ were available at a price within $10/1k, but they are available where cheap FMJs are not.

No problem. This is exactly the kind of conversation I joined the forum for <snip> Thanks again for the great post. This is also the reason I joined this forum- the focus and atmosphere are far better for shooting sports than most general "gun forums." Of the two trigger control problem scenarios you mention, I was seeing the second more in slow dry fire, with a very slight "break shift" down and right or down and left, depending on grip pressure. The first will start to show up during live fire bill drills and other fast split work. I acknowledge the fact that it comes from tensing up the firing hand and mashing the trigger more trying to drive splits lower. I have been spending most of my live fire time lately working on Burkett style timing drills on small dots, with shot calling as a secondary objective. I did also try the "loose grip on the pistol with balanced rounds" technique and was able to shoot 6" circles easily at 25yds, slow fire. I was surprised at how well the gun shot with zero grip pressure. This leads me to think that an artificially tense 'death grip' is detrimental outside drills with long strings and fast splits. I was shooting the same G34. I agree with many here in that physical characteristics of Glocks lend themselves to more trigger manipulation errors. I do have to devote more training to conscious trigger control than with my 1911.

I have both and don't think it is worth upgrading. The sight radius on the 34 is nice, but the 17 feels like it presents faster. I don't seem to shoot one much better than the other. I see a lot more difference dropping another size down to the 19. It's worth buying a 34 and keeping the 17 if it does not come at the expense of practice.

If that is the case how do you get the magazine out in the first place? ...or pull the trigger. Also interested in the video if found. I would be surprised if power racking or slingshotting the slide is faster than using the firing hand thumb or support thumb, depending on the gun and shooter. I got away from the rack or slingshot on slide lock reloads shooting and M9 at work. I'd end up wasting more time sweeping the safety/decocker off after hitting it while racking the slide.

I also use small magnum pistol on my production gun (pro series 9mm) and my Khar P9 & CW9, XD I do the same, and saw only a 1-3 PF increase using FED SPM instead of FED SPP.

Great thread! Possibly stupid question: do lead particles enter the lungs from smoke as cast lead loads are fired? I always thought this was the lube burning.

Other than reliable function of the weapon itself, most everything we attempt to achieve with better gear could instead be fixed by training or adjusting technique. This is an issue that does not show up with other holsters, like a BT single stack legal holster, that ride perpendicular to the ground. I have an extra BT DOH bracket- why not try it if it remains production legal? Alternatively, I may remove the bracket altogether.

It must be me. If I draw with the same technique I use on my G34, I launch the mag every time!

I'll admit I did exactly this once. Somehow I dropped a 9mm bullet in the powder hopper and after a while got some odd drops out of the power measure. It starting throwing extremely light, so I turned it up, and was getting some very heavy and very light charges. Between visual checks and a lockout die, I caught all of the bad charges and none got through. After about 10 rounds trying to get the measure to work, I dumped the powder and found the bullet. Stupid mistake but a good learning experience and QC test...